86 



GARDENERS' MAGAZINE. 



February 



5, 1898. 



WORK F OR THE WEEK, 



COOL ORCHIDS. 



Odontoglossum crispum will now be showing flower spikes, and a careful watch f/ 

 should be kept for slugs and snails. Lettuce leaves, sliced potatos, and carrots 

 can be used as traps, and a little fresh bran in small saucers has a great attraction 

 for them ; they should also be diligently searched for at night, using a lamp for 

 their detection. It is a good plan to place the more valuable plants on inverted 

 pots stood in pans filled with water— even then a constant watch is necessary, as 

 the small slugs and snails hide themselves in the potting material. These matters 

 will take up a great deal of the grower's time, but the results fully compensate him 

 for his trouble. Purchasers of imported plants of O. crispum last season will be 

 anxious to see flowers, and to ascertain if any of the spotted forms are amongst 

 them. Flower spikes should not be allowed to remain on the plants for a long 

 period of time, and in the case of well-established specimens it is advisable to cut 

 the spikes after they have been flowering a reasonable length of time. Weakly plants 

 should not be allowed to carry flowers to the detriment of the growths ; most of 

 the buds should be removed, leaving one or two to develop so as to ascertain the 



as the flowers are fully open they should be cut off and stood 



variety, but as s 



in water in the cool house, where they will retain their beauty for a considerable 

 time. Oncidium macranthum, O. superbiens, and O. undulatum are now showing 

 flower spikes, which often attain a length of from six to eight feet ; these should 

 be trained round neat stakes and be kept close to the glass. These species will 

 also be making new roots, and any that are not showing flower spikes should be 

 repotted if necessary, using a compost of lumpy fibrous peat and clean sphagnum 

 moss, with a good number of thick pieces of charcoal, as the roots of these plants 

 dislike a compressed material ; if the compost is in a sour state around plants that 

 are showing spikes, it may be carefully picked out and the roots resurfaced with 

 new material. Odontoglossum Edwardi and O. ramosissimum come under the 

 same treatment as these oncidiums, and should be grown at the coolest end of 

 the odontoglossum house. The sweet-scented Odontoglossum odoratum is now 

 in flower ; O. pulchellum will also be brightening up the cool house just now, 

 and the latter easily-grown and free-flowering orchid deserves a place in all 

 collections. After passing out of flower they should be repotted or top-dressed if 

 necessary, using plenty of drainage ; and the same compost will suit these plants as 

 advised for oncidiums, with a cool, moist atmosphere all the year round, a shady 

 position, and plenty of water at the roots while growing. 



Zygopetalum Mackayi when it has passed out of flower should be repotted 

 or topdressed in a compost of peat, fibrous loam, broken crocks, charcoal, and a 

 little coarse sand; /. maxillare and Z. Clayi do best grown on pieces of tree 

 fern stood upright in a flower pot and made secure with crocks and charcoal ; 

 the warmest end of the odontoglossum house will be a suitable place for them, 

 and they should have a plentiful supply of water at all seasons. Cypripedium 

 insigne and its varieties are general favourites because of their easy culture and 

 their value for cutting, the flowers remaining fresh for some weeks." These should 

 now be repotted in a compost of fibrous peat and loam in equal parts and a little 

 fresh sphagnum moss and broken crocks and charcoal intermixed. C. insigne 

 Sandeuv is sometimes grown cool with good results, but I find it does best in a 

 warm house. Lycaste Skinneri and its beautiful white variety should now be 

 attended to, and if repotting is necessary the pots should be half filled with 

 drainage, using the same kind of compost as advised for Cypripedium insigne. At 

 the present time very little lire heat is needed. Give bottom ventilation in accor- 

 dance with the outside conditions ; if damp and mild the top ventilators may be 

 opened a Utile on the leeward side and a little lire heat used to promote a circula- 

 tion of air. Should cold weather prevail close all the ventilators and have the hot- 

 water pipes sufficiently warm to keep the thermometer at the proper degree, also 

 affording a little more moisture both to the roots and in the atmosphere than is 

 required in dull, damp weather.— E. ShiLL, New 1 fall Hey Gardens. 



STOVE PLANTS. 



Tub season for repotting will soon be at hand, and in readiness for this opera- 

 tion all the plants should be thoroughly cleansed from all insect pests, so that 

 after repotting they may not need to be disturbed for some time; any of the 

 advertised insecticides will be efficacious if used according to the instructions 

 issued with them. Have all empty pots washed thoroughly clean, crocks also if 

 at all dirty, and see they are thoroughly dry before using them. Provide plenty 

 of potting sticks or rammers of various thicknesses, also a strong sharpened stick 

 for carefully working out the crocks from among the roots at the base of the old 

 ball, and if it is not possible to remove all the crocks without injuring the roots 

 severely let them remain. It is a good plan to have the various soils mixed at 

 least a few days before using them, and, if convenient, stood in the house where 

 the plants are growing, so that they may become thoroughly warmed through 

 before using, turning it daily the better to attain this end. Many growers com- 

 mence at a stated time and work through the whole of their stove plants, repotting 

 all liefore them. This is not a good plan, as the subjects do not all commence 

 growth at the same time. The best time is when each plant is commencing active 

 growth, then the roots take quickly to the new soil, which is soon occupied by 

 active feeders ; if repotted some time before growth is active the soil becomes 

 soured ere young roots are formed. Shabby plants of crotcns (codii\;ums) may 

 have any cuttings they carry removed, and be cut freely back ; stand them in a 

 warm corner, keep rather dry at the roots, and syringe freely overhead. In a 

 short time they will begin to show buds freely, when they may be shaken out, the 

 roots shortened, and repotted into smaller pots, to l>e afterwards shifted on as 

 pots become full of roots. Old drachmas which may have become bare at the 

 base may have their tops removed and inserted in pots of sand plunged in the 

 propagating case and kept constantly moist ; or they may be rooted by stripping 

 off a few leaves just below where it is desired to root them ; cut a notch halfway 

 through the stem and bind moss around the notch, and if the moss be kept con- 

 stantly moist roots are formed, the stem may be severed, and the head potted 

 without disturbing much of the moss. The Stock of dracxnas may be largely 

 increased by cutting up the old stems into short lengths, split down the centre, 

 and inserted in pins of leafsoil and sand : place a piece of glass over the pan 

 and stand over the evaporating troughs. The pots for drac^nas must be well 

 drained, and the compost most suitable consists of equal parts loam and peat, 

 with a free admixture of sharp sand and charcoal broken small. When the pots 

 are full of roots feeding can be resorted to by means of patent manures sprinkled 

 on he surface and watered in. Crotons delight in a compost consisting of three 

 parts good fibrous loam, one part peat, and one of leafsoil, with sand and broken 

 wffZL ? 1 f hm ™'<*» of this add an eight-inch pot of bone meal 



rSt I T h S° l °J n me g00d artiflcial manure « The should be pulled to 

 pieces by hand, and all worms removed at the same time. P 



Dip adenias that are required to flower in June may now be started. Pot them 

 in equal parts of peat and loam, with plenty of sand and charcoal added. Afford 



uamp tne patns, wans, anu amorgsi me pots ireely, also afford all 

 except those in flower a good syringing once a day, preferably about noo/ 1$ 



efficient drainage, and give water with care. A moist atmosphere 1, 

 and, if convenient, afford a bottom heat of 75 to 80 degrees, and a t 

 of 65 to 70 degrees. Allamandas and stephanotis may now be enr^***^ 

 push into growth by frequent syringings. Should they be in pots or tuhc^f 1 10 

 as it is desirable to afford them, remove two or three inches of the surf * ^ 

 and topdress with a mixture of loam, well-decayed manure and sand **» 

 old ball a thorough soaking before applying the topdressing. Young nl^ 

 gardenias wintered in four-inch pots may now be given a shift into six in h * 

 using a mixture of two parts loam and one part peat, with the addition f ^ 

 sand and some well-decayed manure ; pot firmly. Old plants which hav k!^ 

 resting in a cooler house may now be introduced to the stove, and encou^eH 

 open their flowers ; afford stimulants freely, but not too strong, and keet) l 

 bug in check by a free and forcible use of the syringe. Keep the roof da^H 

 houses as clean as possible to allow the ingress of the maximum amount of r k? 

 Damp the paths, walls, and amongst the pots freely, also afford " 



r - , preferably about uuun . n* 



not syringe early in the morning, when the temperature is at its lowest point V 

 little ventilation is required, it being far better to regulate temperature bvcheri/*' 

 the fires.— J. Tunnington, Ripley Castle Gardens. 7 ^ 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



Young lettuces raised from seed sown in boxes early in the last month, will now 

 require pricking off. Where a slight hotbed can be afforded them they will mab 

 far more rapid progress than if pricked off into boxes and placed in the hous* 

 Lettuce grown on manure heaps are far more tender than those sown intl* 

 autumn and grown under glass through the winter, and if the early varieties are 

 cultivated good hearts may be produced in a short time. They require but little 

 room to grow, as very few outside leaves are made, and if planted four inches 

 apart each way ample space will be allowed. Where a supply has to be mak 

 tained, another sowing should now be made, either in a box or on a hotbed, which- 

 ever is the most convenient. Cauliflower plants that are being wintered in cold 

 frames must on no account be neglected, as the mild weather has brought then 

 very forward. Where there are signs of these becoming overgrown, it would be 

 advisable to take up the plants and pot them in large sixties or forty-eights. 

 This would not only give them a check, and so pi event them from growing too 

 large by the time it is safe to plant them out, but would enable them to be planted 

 with a ball of earth attached, which would be a great benefit should the weatha 

 be unfavourable when they are transferred to their permanent quarters. Air m 

 be freely admitted on all favourable occasions, in fact, unless there are signs of 

 frost, the lights had better be left off altogether. Young plants raised from seed 

 sown early last month should be pricked off as Foon as large enough to handle. 

 Where a quantity are required there would be far less trouble in making ipi 

 slight hotbed for them, and in this they could be pricked out at a sufficient dbtacct 

 apart to allow them to remain till they were properly hardened off. If they shoril 

 become overcrowded before it is safe to transfer them to the open ground, a por- 

 tion might be drawn and transplanted in a pot, or under handhghts, to given 

 early supply. There is often a difficulty in obtaining young and sweet rootscf 

 turnips during the spring and early part of the summer, and but little advantip 

 is gained by sowing in the open at present, as the soil is too cold to cause a quid 

 growth, and at the first spell of hot weather most of them would bolt. Those 

 that were sown in the open ground in the autumn will soon become tough, the* 

 fore some preparations should be made for procuring nice sweet roots as early » 

 possible. Turnips will not stand much forcing, but a slight hotbed might be rwde 

 that will generate sufficient heat to cause the seed to germinate freely, and ma» 

 tain a little warmth in the soil should cold weather set in. Where a few spur 

 lights can be afforded .there will be no difficulty in warding off the rains. Air, 

 however, must be freely admitted on all favourable occasions, as turnips resati 

 close atmosphere. 



Potatos in frames will now be making good progress, and where any of m 

 haulm is likely to come into contact with the glass, a covering should be zBotld 

 whenever there are signs of frost ; but if this can be dispensed with the phij 

 will grow more robust, as there will be a better circulation of air amonpt m 

 leaves. All early sets should by this be placed on their ends that a stout, heanf 

 growth may be produced. If light and air can be admitted so much the better, 11 

 these will cause the growths made to be more sturdy. Frost, however, must* 

 excluded, or the consequences will be serious. Where sets have to be P r <*J|J 

 from a distance, on their arrival they should be spread out thinly. ^ Many pecjf 

 advise planting on a south border or at the foot of a warm wall during this moA 

 but there is nothing gained by so doing. Where the sets can be properly sunf. 

 and planted towards the end of March, young tubers will be ready to lift q^ tt- 

 early as if planting were done in February. Where, however, there is no* 

 venience for properly doing this, it is far better to plant before growth is » 

 forward, as overgrown sets seldom produce anything like a good crop. 



If the 



covering 



Gardens, 



appear through the ground betore all clanger 01 

 be afforded to protect them, TT ^ " 



FRUITS UNDER GLASS. . % 



Weather conditions should govern to some extent the treatment of pi** 

 this time of the year, as, with sunshine by day and fairly mild nights, t ^ tem( jJ 

 ture may well be raised a few degrees, provided the plants are plunged !■ 



near enough to the glass to allow just the necessary head-room and no mor ^ 



if these conditions are not possible, and the weather is wintry and dull, it 

 to keep the plants as nearly as possible at a standstill until the sun 8*"*^ 

 power, when they can make progress under satisfactory conditions as tjjr 

 See that the bottom -heat corresponds with the top-heat; any rise i*tn ^ 

 should be accompanied by a corresponding rise in the former, and as ^ j 

 creased so, too, must the supply of atmospheric moisture be allowed to incr ^ 

 safe temperature for pines in all conditions will be a bottom-heat < 



Watering 



fruits** 



or subjecting them to drip will certainly result in maltormauon o» »~ 

 possibly, in decay outright. Young stock may be potted on, as ^^Lj fcr- 

 the compost should consist mainly of fibrous loam which has been s } 2 rr w * 

 few months, broken into fair-sized lumps and freed from loose V*™;**^ 

 should be added burnt soil, a little charcoal, and some crushed bones » . f ^ 

 however, had better be left out, and a little mortar rubbish usedm & 

 unless there is an absolute certainty of their sweetness, for bones t nai ^ 

 after application do much injury. The soil should be made thoroug^/^ 

 before use, and the plants must be in that intermediate condition, 

 moisture at the roots, known as neither wet nor dry, for if pottea ^ 

 condition the results are not satisfactory. Firm potting is a necessuj 



