February 12, 1898. 



GARDENERS' M A\GA ZINE. 



103 



Work for the Week. 



WARM ORCHIDS. 



IN the early days of orchid cultivation, Ccelogyne cristata was much valued, and 

 no doubt growers considered it a difficult plant to grow Experience has proved, 

 however that it is easily managed, and with the several improved varieties, we 

 may now, by careful management, have a display from the cold month of December 

 to the following June. At the present time scarcely any garden containing a green- 

 house but has a few plants of this species. We do not prize it sufficiently, for it 

 well deserves growing, and there is little to equal it in its season. The Chatsworth 

 variety produces longer spikes and larger individual flowers than the type, although 

 if grown in quite a cool house the blooms will not last *o long as those of the 

 species, owing to the labellum being of a more fleshy nature and sensitive to damp. 

 The variety C. c. Lemoniana is the prettiest in the set. Then there is the Trent- 

 ham variety, which, if retarded, will flower as late as June ; we see them some- 

 times at our exhibitions. Then also we have the pure white form, which is one 

 of the whitest of white orchid flowers. At the present time these must be watered 

 sparingly, only sufficient to enable the bulbs to keep plump and support the flower- 

 spikes. Remove plants in flower to the flowering house. 



If any cattleyas have been imported attention must be given them in good time. 

 Amateurs, as a rule, have an idea that plants must be potted in their rough and 

 unsightly state just as they arrive. Such an idea should be abandoned. Cut up 

 the specimens sufficiently to allow four or five bulbs to each lead^ then give them 

 a thorough washing with weak but warm soft-soapy water, cleaning the rhizoma- 

 tous stems thoroughly in order to eradicate any insects or larvae ; examine each 

 bulb carefully to see if there is any sign of cattleya fly, and if any be found cut 

 the bulb clean away and burn it, as this is about the worst enemy cattleyas have. 

 Next obtain crocks well washed in hot water, then prepare some good stout sticks 

 long enough to reach from the bottom of the pot to the top of the longest bulb. 

 Take a clean pot sufficiently large to allow each lead to come just inside the rim, 

 the smaller the !pot the better ; place the ends of your sticks, say three or four, 

 according to the size of pot required, in the pot, and place one large crock over 

 the hole, and allow it to form a wedge for the sticks ; half fill the pot with crocks, 

 still using some as wedges, and make them so firm so that you can pick the whole 

 affair up by one of the sticks ; then take each piece of cattleya separately and tie 

 firmly to the sticks, taking care to arrange each lead towards the edge of the pot 

 and raised about an inch above the rim. After filling the pots to the top with 

 smaller crocks give a good watering and place in a house where plenty of shade 

 can be given, gradually bringing them to the light, and syringe overhead occasion- 

 ally in order to plump up the bulbs. After-treatment will be given later. 



The rebasketing of Lselia anceps, as before advised, may now be finished if 

 flowering is over. Any cypripediums that have completed their flowering may be 

 repotted, and large plants, where a stock is required, may be split up to the 

 desired size. A good mixture for these is three parts of fibrous peat to one of 

 good fibrous loam, with a little coarse silver sand, a little chopped sphagnum, a 

 little charcoal, and a little old mortar, if at hand, all well mixed together. Attend 

 well to the fumigating of all houses, give special attention to the ventilation, and 

 keep temperatures as before advised. — T. Stafford, Tyntes field Gardens. 



CONSERVATORY AND GREENHOUSE. 



The present is the best season of the year to attend to climbers and wall plants 

 in the conservatory, as for the most part they will be in a dormant condition, and 

 what pruning and cleaning' is required can be done before new growth 

 commences. Where properly cared for climbers in variety form a very pleasing 

 feature in this structure ; but it not unfrequently happens that for the want of a 

 little timely thinning and regulating of the shoots, the growth becomes a crowded 

 mass which obstructs light from the occupants below, encourages insect pests, 

 and fail to meet the object they were intended for, viz., a graceful clothing of the 

 rafters and roof supports. Cobsea scandens, both the green and variegated forms, 

 is useful for large buildings, as it spreads rapidly ; but care is necessary to regu- 

 late the shoots, or it is apt to become bare in places. Some of the more choice 

 clematis are also useful for the same purpose, but the growths must be properly 

 thinned out to allow of the flowers being seen to advantage. These quickly get 

 into a tangled state, and where this was allowed to take place last season, pruning 

 must be resorted to at once, or much damage will be done later when growth has 

 commenced. Rather severe pruning of such things now may make the roof look bare 

 for a few weeks, but it really becomes necessary at times to take such measures, 

 not only for regulating future growths, but also for thoroughly cleansing them of 

 mealy bug, which they are so subject to through the introduction of so many 

 different plants into the house. After pruning out as much of the old wood as 

 possible, syringe them thoroughly with water at not less than 80 degrees, and add 

 a wine glass of petroleum to each gallon ; opportunity being taken at the same 

 time to scrub the roof down. This will give the plants a clean start again, and by 

 a tie here and there and the removal of a few shoots where they are likely to 

 become crowded, say once a month afterwards, they give a fine effect in the house, 

 ine rooting medium should also receive attention, taking out an inch or so of the 

 surtace soil and replacing it with good turfy loam, old mortar rubble, or charcoal. 

 1 ne latter is very necessary as it prevents the soil from becoming sour. For 

 wan plants in the conservatory few things can equal and give a better display 

 <;nm Ug f J? 0 ?* the summer months than Bougainvillea glabra, especially when 

 lhr!Z > f Ion gest branches can be trained to the rafters to allow the flowering 



timfL P f^ d ! ? a natural wa y- The P ,ants wil1 have shed their foliage some 

 hZ ™ d *>* vin g bee * kept somewhat dry at the roots since, the needed rest 



S£ a , ■ Al l the thin wood should now 1x5 s P urred back and sufficient 



Wftte fUn? retamed t0 COVer the s P ac ^ allotted evenl y« A g° od soaking of 

 at once necessary to thoroughly moisten the soil, and growth will commence 



carefaTnr^n f 0 ?** in borders, tubs , or pots, will be all the better for 



plants all th * • ey comme nce another season's growth. With some 



secure a well ne ? essar y is to shorten a few of the shoots back somewhat to 

 the plants ar7 • specimen. It is not necessary to loosen the surface soil if 

 iniurv In th 5 a hea,th y condition, as this is not done without some 

 few ^edhL^S" / bres - A s P rinklin S of fresh loam, with a 

 down firmlv 35\? ? 9 f fter the border haS P ro P erI V watered and beaten 

 well as Dromn/i ek • • of the s P ade ' wlU encour age more surface roots as 

 Azaleas as tw ' r ; J T^ d £ rowth ' which is ver y liable with these plants, 

 have proMr trL?m° Ut • ^° 0m should ** kept by themselves, where they can 

 growth TW . ♦ XiT* Way of waterin g and ^"nging to encourage early 

 new shwts will V ™ ? U the better for h i ng sli 8 htl y pruned into shape, as 



obtained* It »S once from the lold wood, and more compact plants are 

 thnp that mav it v also to fumi S ate them once or twice, so as to kill any 



tender foliage Th 1 ' and which <l uick, >" spreads and ruins the young 



' * nese PJants require a close warm house and plenty of syringing 



while they are making their growth. Such plants as Azalea mollis, and lilacs 

 which have been forced, should also be cut back somewhat and encouraged to 

 make new shoots in a warm pit, and afterwards gradually hardened before being 

 put outside. Bulbs of different kinds will come on quite fast enough now in a 

 close pit, and the less fire heat used the better, as the blooms will have more 

 substance and last longer, especially in a cut condition. Roots of Solomon's seal 

 if dug up now will provide very useful material both for decorating and for cutting, 

 and by starting them now they will be ready by Easter without actual forcing. A 

 good batch of spiraea, both S. astilboides and S. japonica, should also be started, 

 as their white flowers are very acceptable at the season mentioned. — R. Parker, 

 Goodwood Gardens. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



With the exceedingly mild weather prevailing roses and other subjects are 

 making an early start into growth. Nevertheless it will not be advisable to com- 

 mence the pruning of either standard or dwarf roses for a few weeks, as the chances 

 are that we may, as a set-off to the present mildness, have our winter in the spring 

 months ; and if roses are pruned thus early the lower buds start into growth, which, 

 if pruning is deferred, remain dormant, and probably escape should severe weather 

 o ccur later. It has been proved repeatedly that the little extra growth made and 

 eventually pruned away has little, if any, injurious effect on the plant. Where 

 growing against walls or fences roses and other climbers may be taken in hand 

 now and receive the pruning and nailing necessary. With roses of strong growth 

 as Reve d'Or, Gloire de Dijon, Marechal Niel, and others, the weak growths 

 should be trimmed out, and the strong shoots nailed, or tied in, almost in their 

 entirety, simply cutting away just the weak point of the shoot. It is surprising 

 what a profusion of blossoms may be obtained from them when treated in this way, 

 even of the first-mentioned variety which, when grown on the cut-back system, is 

 a very indifferent bloomer. In the pruning of climbers generally note should be 

 taken that the flowering wood is not removed, especially of clematis, as those of 

 the Montana type flower from the ripened wood of the previous year's growth ; 

 the pruning of these should be deferred until flowering is over, when, if cut back 

 without delay, flowering wood will be made for the next season. Somewhat 

 similar treatment should be given to Jasminum nudiflorum and Chimonanthus 

 fragrans that are now fully in bloom. Clematis of the Jackmanni type may be 

 pruned hard back to a few eyes where employed for covering arches or for 

 trailing over beds, and when so treated usually make strong growths as long as 

 desired for this purpose, which flower freely. 



Climbing plants in variety may still be planted, but unless plants can be turned 

 out of pots this work should be finished at the earliest opportunity. For the south 

 aspect the following are suitable : Ceanothus azureus and its varieties ; Passiflora 

 coerulea and P. Constance Elliott ; these should be given the warmest situation, 

 and the ceanothus sheltered with a few branches or temporary covering in severe 

 weather. Others are Bignonia grandifloia, the early-blooming Garrya elliptica, 

 Choisya ternata, an evergreen plant of shrubby growth with sweetly-scented white 

 flowers. The evergreen magnolias are suitable for planting against a high wall or 

 building, being of strong growth, and if given a sheltered situation they are seldom 

 injured by severe frosts in the southern counties. Their large sweetly-scented 

 white flowers are much prized in late summer and autumn. The sweet Jasminum 

 officinale and J. o. grandiflorum are also desirable subjects. In pruning these 

 two should be cut within a couple of eyes of the old wood, the flowers being pro- 

 duced on the young growths. The later yellow-flowered J. revolutum, of stronger 

 growth than the preceding, should be planted in a warm situation, and not be 

 pruned too closely, and some of the strong young growths of the past season may 

 be tied in to nearly their full length. For the rich coloration of autumn foliage 

 Ampelopsis Veitchi and A. hederacea should be given a south or west aspect. 

 Loniceras in variety, Escallonia macrantha, Forsythia suspensa and F. viridissima, 

 Kerria japonica, and Wistaria sinensis are other desirable subjects. For covering 

 a wall or fence with a north aspect Crataegus pyrancantha and C. Lelandi are 

 excellent plants of free growth, and in this position both flower and set their 

 berries in profusion, and the latter are effective through the dull winter months 



unless devoured by birds. 



Where sub-tropical bedding is carried out some of the slower growing kinds 

 used should be sown now. - Canna seeds take some time to germinate, and before 

 sowing they should be soaked for twenty-four hours in warm water. Grevillea 

 robusta and eucalyptus seeds may now be sown, while ricinus and similar quick- 

 growing subjects may wait a month yet, and then be quite large enough for bedding- 

 out time. Stock roots of dahlias should be introduced to heat for the production of 

 young growths for propagation. The latter should be taken off as soon as large 

 enough to handle, and inserted in pots of sandy soil, and plunged in a moderate 

 bottom heat.— C. Herrin, Dropmore Gardens. 



HARDY FRUITS. 



Old trees intended for grafting should now be headed down, as it is a good 

 time to prepare for this work. Owing to the mild weather it will not be safe to 

 leave scions for grafting any longer on the trees as (he season is more forward 

 than usual ; the grafts taken should be a well- ripened shoot of moderate strength, 

 and the name of each variety should be firmly attached to each bundle ; these 

 must be inserted half their length in a cool north border to retard growth, and 

 should the soil be at all dry give moisture occasionally to prevent the bark shrivel- 

 ling. It often happens that old fruit trees, indeed, younger ones also, in standard 

 form are allowed to grow for years without pruning, with the result that fruits are 

 small : now is a suitable time to thin out very thick growths and cross branches, 

 but I am not advising wholesale mutilation, for this would make matters worse 

 after the years of freedom ; rather do a portion of the thinning yearly. In the 

 case of plums much may be done to encourage fruiting by the lemoval of useless 

 spray, encouraging fruit buds to form freely, and admit light and air. Newly- 

 planted trees should be staked now the soil has settled, and I am greatly in favour 

 of naming all fruits, as the labels from growers soon become unreadable or lost, 

 causing much trouble later on. In all gardens correctly-named trees are interest- 

 ing and educational. After a trial of many kinds of labels I find that metal ones 

 with raised letters are very good ; we use those made by the Stratford Label Com- 

 pany. For many years we used leaden strips with the letters punched in the lead, 

 and these last well, but are not so neat as the others. For attaching labels to 

 fruit trees it is best to use wire, as this is soft and pliable, but it is well to 

 allow plenty of space ; if copper wire is used place it so that it cannot impede 

 growth. The labels in the case of wall trees may be nailed to the wall, and in the 

 open may be placed on a small stake in front of the trees. 



Apricots will soon be coming into flower, and if not yet nailed or pruned the work 

 should be proceeded with. We find there is little to prune at this season, if the 

 summer growth was regulated ; but it may be necessary to reduce the spur growths, 

 as these, if at all crowded, produce too many inferior fruits ; those that are farthest 

 from the wall should be removed first, as the apricot in its earlier stages needs 

 protection. My remarks concerning the removal of spur growths are applicable to 

 other fruits, notably apples, pears, and plums, as these often have far too many 



