'54 



GARDENERS 



MAGAZINE 



Wor 



FOR THE WE 



COOL ORCHIDS. 



WE have ^«^gi5JSS f ventilation must be allowed freely on all 

 and the sunlight ^^f^\f gh [ . beware, however, of piercing east winds 

 ^K^^Sf du iS& mondi, and oftentimes accompanied by bright 

 which iare so ^P*^*;^^ bad practice to give air simply to reduce the 

 sunshine - A ^J^^^% roller blinds should be let down, the heat in 

 SK^^lSSi^ bottom ventilation given on the leeward side. 

 Cil ?35* — freely without much fear of bad results 



foSowtag Ada Lrantiaca requires an abundant supply of water at this season 

 as it is rootinc freely and will soon be showing its flower spiVes. Ccelogyne 

 md^S^S^ C. Wallichiana, and C. Reichenbachiana are now growing 

 fred ^ These plants are best grown on a shelf near the glass, at the warm end 

 of the cool house, and should have all the light obtainable ; water should be given 

 without stint, and occasionally some weak liquid cow manure. In fine weather 

 it will be beneficial to syringe these plants once or twice daily. C. humilis, and 

 C Hookeriana, having passed out of bloom, should be repotted at once, using a 

 compost consisting of fibrous peat, loam, and chopped sphagnum in equal propor- 

 tions, with a little coarse sand intermixed ; water should be sparingly afforded 

 until the plants have become well rooted. Disas are now growing freely, and 

 should receive copious supplies of rainwater at the roots, frequently syringing them 

 in order to keep red spider and thrips in check. The coolest end of the odonto- 

 glossum house will be found the most suitable place, as these plants delight m 

 plenty of air and moisture. Bletia hyacinthina, B. h. albo-striata, are now show- 

 ing signs of growth, and if repotting be necessary, should be at once attended to, 

 using a compost of fibrous loam, finely chopped sphagnum, small crocks, charcoal, 

 and clean coarse silver sand, the whole being well mixed together ; place about 

 two inches of drainage in the bottom of the pots, covering with a layer of rough 

 peat or moss. A light position in the cool house is the best place for them, giving 

 water freely until flowering is past, when it must be gradually withheld, and the 

 plants stood in a sunny position to mature. 



Oncidium ornithorhynchum is a free growing and floriferous species, produc 

 i ng branching spikes bearing a number of small sweet-scented flowers ; these 

 should now have fresh material afforded as the thread-like roots push out when the 

 new growths are only a few inches high ; the warm end of the cool house suits 

 this orchid admirably. Oncidium leucochilum that has finished flowering 

 should be kept dry until growth recommences, when it should be repotted. O. 

 incurvum now making new growths should be potted if necessary, giving abun- 

 dance of water during active growth, and reducing the supply when the bulbs 

 are made up. Odontoglossum Rossi, O. Cervantesi, and O. Humeanum are three 

 very pretty little orchids in flower at the present time, and care should be taken 

 not to over-water the plants, always allowing the compost to become moderately 

 dry before giving more water. O. Haili, O. maculatum, O. luteo-purpureum, 

 O. triumphans, and O. gloriosum are also in flower. Some of the latter are very 

 sweet-scented, while others have but very little fragrance ; these all require the 

 same treatment as O. crispum. Anguloa Clowesi, known as the Cradle Orchid, is 

 very interesting the beautiful yellow cup-shaped flowers being highly perfumed. 

 Any plants that require repotting should be attended to as soon as the flower 

 spikes appear, for if left until they have passed out of flower the new roots will 

 be too far advanced, and repotting be both difficult and dangerous ; well drained 

 pots should l>e used, and the compost should consist of two parts of fibrous peat 

 and loam to one of sphagnum moss. These plants should occupy a position near 

 the glass in the cool house ; they require a good supply of water during growth, 

 but very little during winter. After the new pseudo-bulbs have finished their 

 growth a good period of rest is necessary. Vanda Kimballiana and V. Amesiana 

 having now commenced to grow should be given more root space if necessary, 

 using teakwood baskets, clean sphagnum, and a few pieces of charcoal, good 

 drainage being, of course, essential. These species may be grown successfully at 

 the warm end of the cool house, choosing a light airy position, and giving abun- 

 dance of water during the growing season. — E. Shiix, New Hall-Hey Gardens. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



As soon as the ground can be worked, it should be prepared to receive the onion 

 seed. Some may say that this piece of advice is too late, as in warm districts the 

 seed may already have been sown. Those, however, who dug the ground as 

 previously advised after the crop of celery had been consumed, and allowed it tore- 

 main rough until the present time,will not be behind with the weight of their crop at 

 the time of lifting. Choose a fine day, and sow the piece intended for onions 

 with soot at the rate of one bushel to three perches of ground ; this should then be 

 forked in, reducing the soil to a fine powder in the operation. When sufficiently 

 dry on the surface tread the whole plot firm, afterwards raking it smooth and level. 

 There is no necessity for forming beds, as quite as good bulbs can be grown on 

 the flat, and where the ground is light and dry this is far better, as the moisture 

 is retained longer in the soil when not raised. Drills should be drawn about 

 fifteen inches apart, and about half an inch deep. When the seed is covered 

 deeper, there are usually too many thick-necked specimens. Sowing should be 

 done carefully, for often far too much seed is used, and the plants crowd each 

 other and become spindly. Covering should be done by raking the ground the 

 same way as the drills are drawn, finishing off by trimming up the ends of the 

 plot. A pinch of parsnip seed may also be put in now, but for a general crop 

 sowing had better be deferred until the end of the month, particularly 

 where the ground is rich, as the roots will be quite large enough 

 by the autumn. Carrots, such as Model, Gem, and Early Horn, may also be sown 

 in the open quarters where the soil is light and dry, but where heavy the sowings 

 should for the present be confined to the warm borders. Peas sown in pots about 

 the middle of January have, owing the mildness of the weather, made good pro- 

 gress, but it is scarcely safe to plant them out unless in warm, sheltered places 

 where protection can be afforded. On warm borders, or at the foot of a south 

 wall, they will not take any harm if planted now, but in cold localities it is well 

 not to be in a hurry. When planting take out a trench across the plot or border 

 rather deeper than the ball of earth in the pots, and, having turned the plants out, 

 press the soil firmly round them. We usually treat about a thousand pots in this 

 way, which give about seven hundred feet length of rows. The varieties to be 

 turned out here are Gradus, Early Morn, Exonian, Early Marrow, Sutton's 

 Seedling, Early Giant, Dwarf Defiance, Daisy, Excelsior, and Productive. A 

 goodly number, no doubt, but then they do not all come into bearing at once. 

 The dwarf early varieties sown in the open ground are all looking well, and these 

 consist of Chelsea Gem, Sutton's Forcing, Carter's Forcing, and a few others. A 

 sowing may now be made in the open quarters of such varieties as Telephone, 

 lelegraph, Duke of Albany, Duke of York. The Don. or anv of the above-named. 



whichever is considered best. 



keans may 

 Longporl 



Vegetables in pits or frames will now need * 

 are forward should have all the air possible to strL r k 10n - 

 and put colour into the foliage ; those showing bloom th * 



watched for ^ 

 want of moisture at 



Do* 



mildew, and should o^no'acrount be°^i ** 



to force, but this season has been an exceptional one so that T* 51 vc 8^ 

 remarkably well. French beans will now make rapid' pro^c ?k ***** 

 should be made at intervals to suit the requirements of the nl erefor ***£ 

 introduce seakale into a place where sweet crisp growth can K^*' J Co * tii ** 

 the south that which was covered up on a north border will l£ j ***** 

 about a fortnight should che weather continue mild. Outside Y y f< * * * 

 kinds are plentiful and good, therefore there has not been such a d**} 1 * fjfj 

 ones as is sometimes the case. Turnips, carrots, radishes, lettuce !w forfclc 

 things on hotbeds must be well supplied with air whenever the wp ^'^^ 

 able. In the southern districts it will not be necessary to lift an v U 

 roots for forcing as the growths will soon be showing themselves th uF* 1 

 and where glass lights have been placed over the beds the sun will h C**> 

 the plants forward. Those in frames that are becoming exhausted win k.^* 

 benefited by having a dressing of fish guano to be washed in bv m 

 Continue to make small sowings of mustard and cress, and keen ud 



blanched salads by introducing more into the blanching place as the ot he TEL* 

 exhausted. A pinch of celery seed may be sown to give a supply of early dU* 



germinate. It is not advisable R 



If placed in a 



afterwar 



HARDY FRUITS. 



severe weather. 



d a season, the trees on warm walls are much too forward fortW 

 nsequently, protecting material must be held in readiness m2l 



In previous notes I have advised covers which do not exS 



air, and those which do not cause the trees to be darkened, as this weakemT 

 bloom of apricots, &c, and causes it to drop ; indeed, it would be best not* 

 protect at all than to cover too much. Newly-planted fruit trees will now i 

 attention. Leading shoots and others may now be shortened, but, as a 

 newly-planted trees are checked by their removal, and do not make much 



m 















the hrst season, ana even snouia any grow at an ireely, one can easily cut \mk 

 green shoots, or, what is better, pinch them back in a young state. There shoril 

 be no delay in mulching newly-planted trees; indeed, in some soils, it mayfe 

 necessary to give water, as, under walls with a projecting coping, I recafe 



found the soil very dry, and in our district the rainfall this winter has been t« 

 slight. When mulching, it is well to use manure in a strawy condition, is ban 

 manure keeps the roots cold, and rich food is not needed. The mulch is too* 

 serve the moisture. In all cases should the mulch be given before the spraf i 

 far advanced, so as to prevent the bark shrivelling. Peach trees, nectarines xm 

 are more forward than I have seen them for years, and in these cases pruninf ml 

 nailing cannot be longer delayed. I always un-nail all young wood early a 

 November to harden it, and also retard the flowering as long as possible, bit t 

 cannot be kept from the wall after the flower buds are showing colour, and em 

 then nailing needs to be done with care to prevent injury. Many growers «ko 

 crop heavily do not give the trees any too much room, but crowded trees arc At 

 first to become infested with greenfly, and suffer from mildew. Amend 

 varieties of peaches need rather more care in pruning than our own, and 1 ^ 

 advisable to leave more spray or light wood, and not to rely too much on torn 

 on the strong shoots, as, though the fruits set freely, they drop badly in 

 weather or the least check in the way of drought. 



Now is a good time to give exhausted fruit borders assistance in the 

 top dressings with fresh soil, to which has been added such aids as will cocowf 

 new surface roots. Many fruit trees would be more valuable if the surfacei M 

 were given greater assistance. In some cases they are left many years wttl 

 attention, and in the end form strong roots down in the poor soil whichaii 

 conducive to fruit formation. Cherries delight in these annual dressings, im no 

 when new soil cannot be given, bone-meal spread liberally on the sum* « 

 raked in will do much good. In heavy clay soils, I have found W00d ^ n °rJ 



bone-meal a splendid fertiliser, and if other manures are given later onu » 

 course advantageous, but I place much importance upon tood »™-V 



before leaf growth is active. Apricots fail in many soils, and in su ^ 



encourage surface roots ; they often suffer from lack of lime, and II nau: > 

 after repeated failures by using old mortar rubble or chalk in tne son, -j 

 muriate of potash occasionally during growth. These remarks only app ) ^ 

 where the soil is exhausted ; to give the food now will, witn ge ^ 

 encourage new root growth. Fig trees on walls have not neeu 

 covering usually given them, and though full early to uncover 

 wise to coddle them, and there need be no fear of mjuryit tn * * 

 well thinned and hardened. It may be well to cut out old bare m ^ 9 

 if at all thick, but I am not in favour of much pruning at m [S l ^ 

 like peaches and nectarines, the 6g bears on the wood ma de las t ^ ^ 

 due attention to stopping, thinning, and removal of old *™ iu »g m U » 

 the crop is cleared, there needs little to do at this season. Any 

 fruit freely, may with advantage be root-pruned just betore we 



grow. — G. Wythes, Syon Gardens. 



FRUITS UNDER GLASS 



good to^fj 



Duncnes proviae a mucn-appreciaicu ui^-;- -- j li^ht Cm**** 

 easily cultivated, provided it can be given sufficient heat .^ 1 at a giitf 



j — b . — r . 



ripen fruit at a time when other fruits are scarce 



. that most of the PJ^ , 

 This banana » ttej* * 

 than any of .the oUjj^ 

 will, by the timethe^.^ 

 ml L.L„ <«cker gW**, 



:ted to 



i hv lew* * 



begin to change colour, have produced at least one = * 

 unless an increase in stock is desired only one should De p 

 so that all the energies of the old stool shall be devotea ^ 

 this sucker, and to the perfecting of its frmt. Nothing , » b . n m 

 plant stand after ripening begins, as the individual tw"* dry r0 o* *i 



on the bunch when this has been cut and hung up in aw ^ ^efuily^ 

 the grower is then free to deal with the sucker which no ^ ia &t1*fr 

 from the old plant, and either potted up or planted on the sUC k« t*£, 

 is to occupy. Most growers advise potting up, aw gn «* , bour by P»?J,# 

 shifts, but I have obtained at least equal results with K» io bo*ei*» 

 at once in a rough and ready way. The plants were & 



