March 12, 1898. 



GARDENERS' MAGAZINE. 



Work for the W eek. 



WARM ORCHIDS. 



PHAWSNOPSis Schilleriana, P. amabilis, P. Sanderiana, P. leucorrhoda, P. 

 erandiflora, P. Stuartiana, and others that have finished flowering will now re- 

 quire attention ; all the old material must be very carefully picked out of the 

 baskets, cylinders, pots, or blocks, and well washed out in a pail large enough for 

 the purpose, or with the watering can. Make sure all the small beetles and snails 

 are entirely eradicated. After this take fresh sphagnum, well picked and washed 

 through clean water several times, together with some nice pieces of charcoal about 

 the size of a walnut, except at the bottom, where larger pieces will be required ; a 

 hard blunt, pointed stick will be found very useful to place the charcoal and 

 sphagnum in with. Every care must be taken of the roots that are firmly attached, 

 and also of the points of those that are just pushing out. A few clean crocks will 

 also be found very beneficial. Placing them here and there wi'h the charcoal 

 and sphagnum, a good plan is to put a piece of red sandstone underneath the 

 new roots, as they soon adhere to it. Any that require new baskets or cylinders 

 —the latter, in my opinion, being far the best — must be carefully handled, and a 

 sharp knife used, cuttrhg away the wood along with the roots. After this work has 

 been done, the shading will require particular attention, otherwise the foliage will 

 lose vigour and appear limp. A slight syringe occasionally must be given, and a 

 nice humid atmosphere be carefully maintained. Of late we have witnessed some 

 very treacherous weather, such as registering 11 degrees of frost, cold winds, 

 hail, snow, and cold rain, which is very trying for growing orchids. Moreover, 

 we have had hot sun in the middle of the day at times. At such times a little 

 shading must be used, if not the leaves turn yellow ; a very coarse blind is the 

 best now, and the thicker ones as the season advances. Firing and ventilation 

 must be carefully studied. 



Vandas of the suavia and tricolor section must be top-dressed or repotted as 

 required ; clean crocks, charcoal, and fresh sphagnum being the right material to 

 use with the pots well crocked. Leggy plants must be cut down and lowered to 

 the base of the leafy stem, in order to have bushy plants ; a slight syringe occa- 

 sionally, taking care not to syringe overhead, will help to keep the foliage fresh, 

 Saccolabium Blumei giganteum and others may have the old material picked out 

 of the baskets and replaced with new, care being taken of the roots. Dendrochilum 

 glumaceum, as soon as the flowers are over, must receive immediate attention if 

 necessary ; baskets are the best for it, using fibrous peat and sphagnum as 

 material. Cattleya aurea requiring more room must also receive attention ; 

 baskets are far the best for it. Imported cattleyas that are beginning to root must 

 have the crocks removed about them, and fibrous peat substituted. Unflowered 

 cattleya and Laelio-cattleya seedlings must be repanned or rebasketed, and sus- 

 pended from the roof in a house by themselves. Old specimens ot Cattleya 

 Mossise and Mendeli that are nearly worn out must be pulled to pieces, the 

 smaller the better, and well washed with weak soft-soap water. If too far gone, 

 and the variety is choice, it would be the better plan to place these divisions 

 in crocks, and treat them exactly as imported plants. Selenipediums, such as S. 

 calurium, S. Ainsworthi, S. cardinalis, S. Sedeni, &c, may be split up, and if a 

 stock is required, they can be pulled to pieces to the desired size. A good com- 

 post consists of equal parts of good peat and loam, with a little charcoal, old 

 mortar, and sand. The earliest plants of Dendrobium phaloenopsis must be potted 

 if necessary. 



Damping down must be done twice a day, according to the atmospheric con- 

 ditions outside. The general stock must be well examined for thrips and all 

 pests. If the blinds are not in readiness, they must be put in order at once. — 



T. Stafford, Tyntesficld Gardens. 



CONSERVATORY AND GREENHOUSE. 



In many gardens where palms are used frequently for indoor decoration this 

 often interferes with repotting them at the proper season. As these will not be 

 required for some weeks for the prupose mentioned above, we are taking the 

 opportunity of examining the stock, and either giving larger pots or tubs to those 

 requiring it, or surface-dressing others. These plants are less liable to injury when 

 used in dwelling rooms if they are somewhat pot-bound, providing the roots are 

 regularly supplied with water, than is the case when they are over- potted, as the 

 soil is apt to become sour and the roots decay. Still it becomes necessary at 

 times to afford slightly larger pots, though with the view of using these as small 

 as possible many of the lower and coarse roots may be reduced, providing the 

 plants are in a healthy condition. A few kentias, from five to six feet high, growing 

 in 7-inch pots, have proved most useful ; but it was decided to give them larger 

 ones this spring. We found, as we expected, very little soil left in the pots, which 

 were filled with white, fleshy roots, proving what a length of time palms may be 

 sustained on almost moisture alone. Rich, turfy loam, sharp sand, with a free 

 addition of fine charcoal forms a good compost for palms, draccenas, and other 

 greenhouse foliage plants, the charcoal mixed with the soil being necessary to 

 ensure drainage and keep the material sweet. A close, humid atmosphere, a shady 

 position, and frequent syringing is very necessary to newly potted plants of this 

 description. The green-leaved draccenas, such as D. indivisa, are most useful and 



ornamental, even when they have lost their lower leaves, as after they have 

 become tall they form good centres for groups, and they also give a sub-tropical 

 effect to the pleasure grounds during the summer when the pots are plunged in the 

 turf. After a time, however, these become too tall for the conservatory, and the 

 present is a good time to arrange for striking the tops ; in doing this, the thicker 

 tne stems the deeper must be the incision. A good wad of ground moss bound 

 round the cut kept constantly moist will soon induce a mass of roots to appear ; 

 but care must be used not to sever the tops from the stem until sufficient roots are 

 secured to sustain the foliage. After the tops of these plants are rooted in this 

 Wa y> a close atmosphere with plenty of moisture is necessary to encourage free 



^* cus e ' ast * ca is both useful and ornamental when the stems are clothed 

 7v jt lthy lea ves, but any which have lost their foliage should have the tops 

 W n ° <u Pk ce d singly in small pots, filled with sandy soil, and plunged in a brisk 

 oottom heat. Now is a good time to divide and repot Isolepis gracilis which 

 orms a pleasing margin on stages or to groups. Where five or more cuttings of 



/oIa !T* e P laced in sma11 P ots in the autumn these will have become well 

 ooted and should be shifted into larger pots. Larger plants which are to flower 



a d* S ? SOn shou,d be ke P t c ° o1 and near the g lass ' or the y wil1 g^ow tall, which is 

 dir 1 H Va ^ ta ^ e ; the P ots being filled with roots, liquid manure water may be used 

 with • flower truss es become visible. Abutilons are useful, especially those 

 in variegated foliage, either for the conservatory or flower beds, and a batch of 



mav? SS K Ut - m n ° W W * B furnish neat P lants in a few week s. Graceful table plants 

 feet obtai ned by inarching A. vexillarium on to A. Thompsoni with stems two 



and ° r m ° re • - A - P idistras should also receive attention in the way of dividing 

 valuah^°f Um8 where necessary, before new leaves push up ; these are most 

 dwell^- ^ Standing -- in shady c° rners > or under taller plants, also for use in 



wg rooms ; small pots and sandy soil favour neat variegated foliage. 



Cytisus racemosus will soon give a display of brilliant yellow and fragrant 

 flowers ; but these lose much of their beauty when the foliage is not of a dark 

 healthy green. Copious waterings are necessary, or the leaves are apt to fall 

 wholesale, while liquid manure once or twice a week will prove of much 

 assistance. Epacris in variety as they go out of bloom should have their shoots 

 shortened back, and be stood together where they can be sprayed overhead ; and 

 water sparingly until new growth commences, and then those requiring it may be 

 repotted. Peat, coarse silver sand, and firm potting is necessary. Hydrangeas 

 will produce large heads of bloom in very small pots if the roots are kept well 

 supplied with nourishment. Cuttings struck in sixties last September may be 

 be potted into forty-eights. Give them a rich compost, and place near the glass 

 in a warm frame or greenhouse. Lilium Harrisi will be of great service for Easter 

 decorations, therefore directly the plants show flower, fumigate them, and if placed 

 in a temperature of about 60 degrees, they will come on quickly. It is a mistake 

 to force these plants before the flower-buds form, as they become tall and weak. 

 A surface dressing of rich compost, together with the use of liquid manure will 

 assist to develop fine flowers if afforded early after buds appear. Introduce 

 batches of Spiraeas, azaleas, lily of the valley, and other things into heat by degrees 

 to maintain brightness in the conservatory, and provide suitable flowers for cutting. 

 Keep vessels containing seedlings well up to the glass, and lose no time in prick- 

 ing these off directly they are large enough to handle. Push forward the work of 

 propagating all plants that are likely to be required, both for decorating and 

 bedding purposes, and make provision for sowing many of the half-hardy annuals 

 in pans, boxes, or on gentle hot-beds, which must receive attention between now 

 and the end of the month.— Richard Parker, Goodwood Gardens. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



The planting of new herbaceous borders may be carried out at the present 

 time, or as soon as the soil is in a condition to work upon. Lists of suitable 

 plants have often been given in these columns, therefore it is unnecessary to repeat 

 names here. In planting avoid straight lines of plants ; the tallest growing must 

 of necessity be planted at the back of the border and the shortest in front, but this 

 should not be carried out too strictly; for instance, if plants of medium height be 

 associated with those of taller growth, an undulating outline is obtained, and a 

 breaking up of the flatness or formality otherwise apparent. Many subjects may 

 be propagated now for these borders. Varieties of Michaelmas daisies may be 

 easily increased for planting out a little later on. I find the most convenient method 

 is to take off the side growths or suckers, which are by this time mostly emitting 

 roots, and pot them up into five-inch pots, placing four or five in each, afterwards 

 standing them in a cold frame for a few weeks, by which time they will have 

 become strong clumps for turning out into the borders. These extremely useful 

 autumn-flowering plants are deservedly becoming popular, and whether for border 

 decoration or use as cut flowers, a dozen at least of the best varieties should be 

 grown. For massing, too, some of the dwarf and tall varieties are admirably 

 adapted, and when so used are most effective, such, for instance, as A. amellus 

 bessarabicus growing about two feet in height, and producing an abundance of 

 deep- violet coloured flowers, or A. Nova Belgi Robert Parker, which grows to the 

 height of four to five feet, giving an abundance of sprays of lavender-blue flowers 

 with a yellow centre. Other desirable sorts are A acris, lilac purple, two feet, early; 

 A. laevigatus, two to three feet, flowers rose-coloured, of compact habit; A. 

 Harpur Crewe and A. Purity, both white flowered, tall, five feet ; A. Nancy, pale 

 blue, four feet, good ; A. cordifolius Diana, four feet, produces graceful sprays with 

 masses of soft lavender flowers ; A. ericoides and A. diffusus horizontalis, handsome 

 small-flowered varieties, three feet ; A. Maia, fine large rosy lilac flowers, four feet ; 

 A. Tradescanti, a late -flowering species, producing numerous small white flowers 

 on graceful sprays. The deep-green, finely-cut foliage of the last mentioned is 

 handsome, and shoots of this alone are useful for mixing with other cut flowers, 

 and I may here remark that plants of this, grown in pots, form very useful decora- 

 tive material for the conservatory in October and November. The Michaelmas 

 daisies are so numerous that a small selection is somewhat difficult, but the dozen 

 mentioned give a long succession of flowers, and during the past two years 

 A. Tradescanti has been very good in the open in November. Border chrysan- 

 themums should be increased by cuttings, either for planting out in the herbaceous 

 borders or the reserve garden. 



Carnations, growing on outside borders, should have the surface soil stirred 

 about them when in a sufficiently dry state to work easily and the plants be pressed 

 into the ground firmly. Spring bedding plants of all kinds should be similarly 

 treated. Carnation plants wintered in cold pits and frames should be kept well 

 exposed, with a view to planting out as early as possible. The ground should be 

 in good condition, and if convenient, a change in site should be given annually. 

 Calceolarias struck in autumn and wintered in cold frames should have full ex- 

 posure, unless frosty, pinching out the points of the shoots to induce bushiness. 

 These will shortly need transplanting into cold pits or in a position where they 

 may be protected from sharp frost should such occur. Where flower beds are 

 empty, those intended to be filled with calceolarias may shortly be planted and 

 provided with a temporary shelter of fir branches or other material until partially 

 established, or in the event of frost occurring ; when thoroughly hardened a few 

 decrees will do them no harm. Stores of gladioli should be examined, and any 

 decaying corms removed. Some of the commoner and early-flowering varieties as 

 Brenchleyensis may be planted forthwith ; the varieties, Colvi lei and C alba 1 are 

 also useful for furnishing cut flowers, and require planting early. Mild hot beds 

 are necessary for the raising of annuals m quantity, and these should now be made 

 up Two prts of leaves, to one of strawy stable manure will make a suitable 

 bed if built from three to four feet m height, to be trampled firmly while Riding. 

 After placing on the frame and partially filling with leaves finish off with three or 

 four inches of sifted light soil, that when finished it shall be four inches from the 

 gla*s ; put the lights on and allow to remain for a week or two to become warmed 

 Through The pruning of roses may be taken in hand with safety now For 

 garden roses, strong growths may be pegged down, while H.P . s for exhibition 

 blooms should be pruned-in to two or three eyes. Teas should have all weak 

 growths cut back close, allowing the stronger to remain at consumable length.— 

 C. Herrin, Dropmon Gardens. 



HARDY FRUITS. 



Since penning my last notes we have had a sharp spell of winter weather which 

 has checked the all too forward growth in this department. I advised coverings 

 for apricots, and peaches will now need similar treatment, though I place much 

 faith upon a good coping, as this throws off rain, and the mischief is usually caused 

 by frost when the blossom is wet. Pruning and nailing of peaches should proceed, 

 as there is no gain in keeping the trees from the walls when the colour of the 

 bloom can be seen, and as soon as this work is done it will be advisable to give 

 protection. The grower's attention will be needed in the gooseberry and currant 

 quarters, as small birds are most troublesome. I have advised the use of quassia 

 extract and fresh lime, as this is not at all relished by the birds. Many growers 



