248 



GARDENERS' MAGAZINE. 



April 16, 1898 



WORK FOR THE WEEK, 



COOL ORCHIDS. 



Co logyne cristata and its varieties are usuallv grown in the intermediate house, 

 but amateurs who have not this accommodation will find this beautiful orchid grow 

 satisfactorily under cool treatment ; no collection, however small, is complete without 

 it, for it is certainly one of the best winter-flowering orchids we have, and deserves 

 every care and attention that can be possibly given. Small plants, when grown 

 in baskets suspended from the roof, and well established, flower freely, but old 

 established clumps when properly treated flower much more abundantly ; these 

 specimens should not be disturbed unless they have overgrown their receptacles, 

 or it is desirable to increase the stock, as it thrives best when a mass of bulbs. 

 Plants that are in a good healthy condition soon overgrow the receptacles in which 

 they are cultivated, and having no material to root in the bulbs soon decrease 

 in size, and therefore cannot produce strong flower spikes ; in such cases the lead- 

 ing pieces around the plants may be cut off and made up into small compact speci- 

 mens. It is now a good time to attend to such matters, if necessary. Pans of a 

 suitable size should be filled to within two inches of the rim with clean drainage, 

 over which place a good layer of rough moss ; the compost should consist of 

 lumpy peat and fresh moss, with a little fibrous yellow loam and finely-broken 

 crocks intermixed. After repotting, coelogynes require careful treatment, as 

 any root disturbance usually causes the pseudo-bulbs to shrivel slightly ; do not 

 deluge the plants with water in order to plump up the bulbs, but stand them in a 

 shady position, syringe overhead, and damp between the pots. When well rooted 

 in the compost and growing freely, an abundant supply of water should be given 

 and more light afforded without exposure to bright sunshine ; they will then make 



strong healthy plants. 



Oncidiums are favourites with most lovers of orchids, and of the cool species 

 there are many of remarkable beauty and distinctness. Such species as O. crispum, 

 O. curtum, O. cuculatum, O. prcetextum, O. candidium, O. Marshallianum, 

 O. Gardnerianum, O. Phalamopsis, O. Forbsei, O. concolor, &c, may be 

 grown in company with the masdevallias or odontoglossums, and are best grown 

 suspended from the roof in well-drained pans or baskets ; only a thin layer of 

 material should be used, as these plants dislike a large quantity of moisture-holding 

 material about the roots. They require a liberal supply of water during the grow- 

 ing season, but after growth is completed only sufficient should be given to 

 keep the bulbs plump and firm. Numerous importations of these species takes 

 place at the present season, and when the plants reach the grower they are 

 sometimes very much shrivelled owing to their long journey, but it is not a 

 good practice to pot these up in such a condition. After they have been thoroughly 

 cleaned and all decayed roots and bulbs cut away, they should be laid on the 

 stage in the cool-house, over a thin layer of sphagnum, occasionally spraying them 

 over on fine days ; this will help to plump up the bulb, and new growths will 

 push out, from which roots will soon appear. When this stage is reached potting 

 up in suitable sized pans, in a compost of equal parts of peat and moss, may be 

 performed ; keep the atmosphere nice and moist around them and water 

 carefully. 



We often have very changeable weather during this month, and constant watch- 

 fulness is necessary ; shading should be used freely, and air should be given in 

 accordance with the outside conditions. A regular supply of moisture must now 

 be kept up by thoroughly damping the paths, stages, and other surfaces at least 

 two or three times daily ; very little heat from the hot-water pipes will now be 

 wanted unless the nights be cold, as is sometimes the case, when a little should be 

 given in order that ventilation may be maintained, for cool orchids do not like a 

 stagnant atmosphere. — E. Shill, New Hall Hey Gardens. 



STOVE PLANTS. 



During April is a suitable time for propagating Reinwardda tetragyna, one of 

 our most showy winter-flowering intermediate-house plants; its flowers are yellow, 

 about an inch in diameter, and though the individual flowers do not last long they 

 open in such quick succession that the plants are literally covered with bright 

 yellow for several weeks during the dull winter months Though the old plants 

 may be cut back and grown on a second season, by far the best results are obtained 

 from those raised by cuttings inserted in April. For cuttings choose the strongest 

 points of the old plants, insert singly in thumb pots of sandy soil and plunge in the 

 propagating case ; when rooted put into three-and-a-half-inch pots, and again later 

 into six-inch pots, in which they will flower. A suitable compost consists of two 

 parts loam, one part peat, with leafsoil, sand, and a little well-decayed manure, pinch 

 frequently during growth to produce compact specimens, and as they are subject to 

 red spider the syringe must be frequently employed to keep it in check. During the 

 latter part of July and through August the plants may be grown in a cold frame 

 where ihey will receive plenty of air and sunshine to ripen their shoots. Tops of 

 droecenas, crotons, and dieffenbachias which were notched and mossed a few weeks 

 ago may be cut away, if the roots are showing, and potted into five or six inch 

 pots, being careful not to break the rootlets during the process ; when potted 

 plunge in slight bottom heat and keep well shaded until established. Eyes of 

 drcecenas inserted in pans early in the year will now have made growths of from 

 three to four inches high ; instead of potting these with the old piece of stem 

 attached, cut the growth away with a sharp knife and insert in a thumb pot, as by 

 this method better plants are obtained. Prick off gloxinias, Cyperus alternifolius, 

 Isolepis gracilis, gomphrenas, Saintpaulia ionantha, Didymoca"rpus malayanus, 

 and other subjects before they become drawn in the seed pots, using light sandy 

 soil containing plenty of leafsoil, as there is nothing better than the latter to 

 encourage root action in small seedlings. Asclepias curassavica, though seldom 

 seen, is worthy of extended cultivation ; it is generally afforded greenhouse treat- 

 ment, but better results will be obtained if it is grown in an intermediate or stove 

 house. We have a large batch which have been flowering for many weeks ; they 

 have had a night temperature of 60 degrees all winter, with 5 degrees rise bv 

 day. If seed is sown or cuttings inserted at the present time they will produce 

 useful plants for the coming winter ; six-inch pots are a suitable size to flower them 

 in, the compost consisting of loam, leafsoil, well-decayed manure and sand. 



Uimbers in the stove will require frequent attention in the matter of regulating 

 ana tying-m the growths, as it is of importance that these should not become too 

 tnicK on the roof and unduly shade the plants below ; attend to this matter at least 



°^aa 1% CU i- tmg , °? superfluous shoots, and in the case of stephanotis, 

 cierodendrons, diplademas, and aristolochias give timely attention to tying before 



t a ^ 1 the T Selves round th * ™es. Aristolochia gigas, though not 



225 • d *?n ' P! ant to g™w on account of the disagreeable odour of its 

 SowS £S5 ^ met, . m * s .^own owing to its gigantic sizTand quaint form. If 

 £ d tTL T V\ apt t0 dr °P its flow ^ and to obviate this each shoot 



?nStrf kt an! T ^T*"™* moc «niana, if not already put in, should be 

 inserted at once m sandy loam. All cuttings as thev fill their pots with roots 



should be potted on before they suffer, or they may receive a cherl, f 

 they may never thoroughly recover. Attend closely to shading 11 °n whi <* 

 a bright day follows two or three dull ones. Afford air mSiJff when 

 days, avoiding draughts. Close early to run the temperature ud to 8c nr^i SUnny 

 at the same time giving the plants a good syringing and damping w?n 

 pots, on paths and walls. The night temperature of the stove to be mlw?***?* 

 70 to 75 decrees by fire heat ; intermediate house, 60 degrees hv ni2k# at 

 day. -J? TuNNlNGTON, Ripley Castle Gardens. g ^ mght and 6 S by 



KITCHEN GARDEN, 



Peas for main crop may now be sown, choosing such varieties 



Stratagem, Veitch's Mam Crop, Invincible, or Superabundant, any* and all 

 which are first-class kinds. In some districts where the soil is light and Door a 

 where the rainfall during the summer months is slight, special care must be tat 

 in the cultivation of this crop. The ground should have been dug in the autum 

 that the soil may have settled down to conserve the moisture. In sowing mat 

 the drills rather deeper now than in the earlier part of the year, and plant rather 

 than sow the seeds. Where tall growing kinds are grown, these should be allowed 

 a greater space than the dwarf or medium ones, as more moisture will be needed 

 for their support. There are from tight hundred to a thousand peas in a pint of 

 seed, therefore if a double line be planted, placing the seeds about three inches 

 apart, half a pint will be sufficient to plant a row twenty yards long. As scon as 

 the early varieties commence flowering give them a slight dressing of sulphate of 

 ammonia, and if the weather be dry a gentle sprinkling of water to dissolve it 

 Make a sowing of Dwarf French Beans in a warm sheltered border where the 

 plants can be afforded protection in case of frost. There are so many good 

 varieties to chose from that it is difficult to say which is best, but as most gardeners 

 have their own particular fancies I must leave them to choose. Prolific Negro is a 

 favourite here for a first sowing. Another sowing should also be made of broad 

 beans, such as Masterpiece Longpod or Green Giant, Carrots in some gardens 

 form an important crop. On light hot gravelly soil they are difficult to grow 

 unless special prepartions are made for them, but on some soils fine clean roots 

 may be produced without any difficulty. It is far preferable to make small sowings 

 at intervals of three weeks or so till the first week in June, than to sow a lot thus 

 early in the season, as the roots under good cultivation become c arse and over- 

 grown, necessitating lifting too early in the autumn. In all private gardens it 

 should be the aim to have tender succulent roots instead of those large specimens 

 so often seen. 



Brussels sprouts, savoys, borecole, and some of the early brocccli should be 

 sown where not already done, but it is far better to defer the sowing of these for a 

 few days than to have the plants overcrowded in the seed beds. Dwarf stocky 

 plants always give the finest results, so for this reason sow thinly and plant early. 

 Turnips may now be sown with little risk of their running to seed, but no more 

 should be put in at one time than will afford a supply until the next sowing is ready. 

 As the ground becomes cleared of broccoli it should be dug in readiness for another 

 crop. Where land is plentiful and there is no necessity for over cropping, it may 

 be reserved for runner beans or celery, but where space is limited late potatos may 

 be planted. As the frames become cleared of potatos, French beans and other 

 crops, they may be planted with vegetable marrows, cucumbers, tomatos, ftt 

 The latter are always useful later in the season. Pot on capsicums and other 

 tender plants before the pots become crowded with roots, and pay specal attention 

 to all small plants that they do not suffer for want of water. There are so miny 

 things needing attention now that a little neglect is apt to throw one back for a 

 considerable time. All vegetables under glass must be allowed abundance of air 

 on all favourable occasions and the syringe should be brought into play where red 

 spider makes its appearance. Do not neglect the sowing of small salads, as the?e 

 will be in greater request as the weather becomes warmer ; though growth is made 

 much more quickly there is a greater danger of the supplies running *rK>«ot 

 account of the saladine so soon becoming: unfit for use.— H. C. PRIHSEP, mm* 



f)anby 



Park Gardens. 



becoming 



FRUITS UNDER GLASS 



Planted-out figs which were started early in the year will now be taking thar 

 final swelling, and will be ripening in the course of a few days. I usually na>c 

 first dishes of brown Turkey about the 25th of April, and j ust previou s to uwr 

 ripening I have the borders thoroughly soaked throughout with ^JiqttW 

 heated to about 90 degrees. The borders at this stage can not have too ^ 

 water, as the strain of a heavy crop during the next few weeks ; will be ^en ormwj 

 for, in addition to the ripening crop, the second crop will be showing on the r* 



wood, 

 recommended 



laition to tne ripening crop, tne secuuu w«w ~ JZt*r\ncf here 



I lay especial emphasis on the timing of the heavy ' & 



jnded, as I have repeatedly found that, when given at the jight . pc 



it influences greatly the size of the individual fruits, and vastly increases ; tne ^ 

 for home use or for sale. Particular attention must also be ana to 

 the matter of syringing, and I recommend that they should be ^ 

 morning and afternoon, to remove every vestige of red spider pre ^ 

 the fruit, as it will only be possible to give occasional syrmgings w» 

 until the crop is removed, and, if spider is in evidence P^S^tSIpeSw* 

 and the leaves will be stunted and disfigured. Keep up a brisk gr ^"8 £i % \ m a 

 ventilate early, and increase the ventilation gradually, so as to re* ^ 

 about eleven a.m. ; shut up and syringe soon after two o ciock. . impregM id 

 mentioned that when the liquid manure given the borders ■■"*"*£ al jJ r j c h, w 

 with ammonia, in which stable drainings, for instance, are e ^ ^ 

 should be left on the house until the sun goes down, and put on at, infllie nceol 

 the next morning, as the fig leaves are very liable to scorchingui aue ^ ^ 

 an atmosphere heavily charged with ammonia, tot tree wheK 

 divested of their crop should not be neglected. All s ™ a11 Jf°™ 0 prevent the 



wanted for the production of branches, "^ a J*'"J"!?3 round once»« eek * 



crowding of the better wood. The pots should be turn a rou 



so that each side of the tree may have the benefit of full sunligm . ^ ^ 



Strawberries ripened after this date will oe better „ eCC5S *ry : 



ones, still, to have them at their best, one or two prec aution hi g ^ 



in addition to keeping the plants well apart, and close o * { ^ ^ 

 improvement in flavour may be brought about by wl h ^f ath er, « the f"* 

 hours before gathering. The early morning is the best time t jf ^ 



are then cool, and they may be kept in good condi ***** d , few «*• 

 thinly in boxes lined with cotton wool, on which have oeen v by p^c. 



other soft leaves. Where ihe fruits have to ' be incke ll an ? , di onc layer ejfc 

 rail, it is necessary to pack them in strong shallow ^ r . ^ ptag« 

 and each fruit should be enclosed in a spinach leaf of the ail o. A»£ 



in the box. Firm packing, with. >ut undue squeezing snou 

 trial of many kinds of leaves, their own in eluded, for packing goo d sabjttg 

 found none to equal spinach, which are of a cool n*««'™ tn ey ^JV^ 

 and I recommend their use to those who have never tneu ^ , ongf tney 

 be allowed to become slightly flagged before use, as, 



