April 16, 1898 



THE 



GARDENERS' MAGAZINE. 



2 



r m J 



N5WERS. t 



CORRESPONDENTS' 



— 4 



77, 



11 The 



The book is 



EdlSd <£* munications should be addressed to the Editor of the Gardeners' 

 Magazine, 148 and I49> Aldersgate Street, E.C. 



devolution in Chrysanthemum Culture.-G. C. J., Hitchin : You 

 will find your query answered in the present issue under the heading of Dwarfing 



Chrysanthemums." . 



Bamboos— M. H. W. Walkley : The work to which you refer is 

 Bamboo Garden," by Mr. Freeman- Mitford, of Batsford Manor, 

 published by Messrs. Macmillan and Co. 



Botanical Names of Popular Flowers.— C. O. S., Hertford: The 



following are the correct botanical names of plants recognised by the popular names 

 sent Scarlet Monkey Flower, Mimulus cardinalis ; Sassafras tree, Laurtus 

 Sassafras; ? Pasque-flower! Anemone Pulsatilla; Sweet Woodruff, A spent la 

 odorata; Wallflower, Cheiranthns Cheiri ; Mint, Mentha viridis ; Liquorice, 

 Glycyrrhiza glabra; Liverwort, Marchantia polymorpha ; Dogwood, Cornus 

 sanguinea; Hemlock, Oenanthe crocata ; Goldielocks, Chrysocoma Linosyris ; 

 None-so- pretty, Saxifraga umbrosa. 



Pottiog Caladiums. — F. W., Derby: You should pot on the caladiums 

 whenever necessary to produce large and well-grown specimens until a reasonable 

 time before the exhibition, or until foliage production ceases. Equal parts of leaf- 

 mould, fibrous loam, and dry cow manure, with a little peat and sand added, make 

 a first-rate compost. If the size of pot is limited, or it becomes apparent that 

 further potting will answer no useful purpose, then liquid manure should be 

 afforded all well-rooted examples. Scarcely any shade is necessary, save for a day 

 or so after potting. Maintain a moist atmosphere and treat the plants liberally 

 in every way. 



Pinching Chrysanthemums. — R. S., Colchester: Joseph Chamberlain 

 and Mary Molyneux are distributed this season for the first time, so that it is not 

 possible to advise on the special treatment of these without experience of their 



frowth. The distributor of the first named (Mr. Davis) says in his catalogue that 

 . Chamberlain 11 is an easy doer on crown bud," and we believe Mary Molyneux 

 will be best from natural second crowns ; if this variety does not show a "break " 

 bud by April 25, try pinching one plant then, and allow another to grow on to 

 the natural break. They both appear to be strong growers. Pinch Mrs. F. A. 

 lievan and Mrs. S. C. Probin at once (should have been done by April 7), and 

 take second crown buds; both these are liable to damping of the blooms, and 

 though they should be well grown be careful not to feed with strong manures late 

 in the season. Western King is best from buds about August 20 to 25 ; if your 

 plants are strong and forward pinch April 20, and take second crowns ; late or 



weakly plants will probably not show their crown buds too early, and need not be 

 pinched. 



Stopping Chrysanthemums — W. B., Otley : The query comes some- 

 what late. The following are the dates, according to Mr. Lees. Nos. 6, 7, 9, 11, 

 14, 15, 18, 20, 21, and 30, should be all right if ordinary crown buds are taken. 

 Nos. I and 2 are rather uncertain in bud formation ; secure a bud as near August 20 

 as possible. Pinch No. 5 about March 10, and take second bud on ordinary 

 crown. Nos. 4, 8, 10, 19, 22, and 27 take second crowns. Strike No. 28 about 

 the end of January ; take crown bud, it comes early. Pinch Nos. 3, 16, and 29 

 April 10, and take crown buds. Pinch Nos. 23 and 26 on April 18, and take 

 crown buds. Nos. 13, 24, and 25 not grown ; No. 12, no use. 



Globe Artichokes. — H. L., Hendon : New plantations of globe artichokes 

 should be made this month, choosing for the purpose a plot of well- worked rich 

 soil that is moist though well drained. Place the clumps about four feet apart 

 each way, or the rows four feet apart and the plants three feet apart in the rows. 

 Choose strong suckers, but not those that are at all woody. Remove the large 

 outside leaves and plant the suckers about half their depth in the soil. Some 

 gardeners remove and po^ up the suckers as they are ready, and keep them 

 in a well-aired cold frame until planting time. Good waterings will be necessary 

 to ensure establishment, while a seakale pot for each plant will be useful to ward 

 off brilliant sunshine for a week or two, and also to afford some protection from 

 severe frosts should such occur. 



Doronicum plantagineum for Forcing. — R. C. F., Guildford : This 

 plant should be divided every year, and replanted in rich soil, if good specimens 

 for early flowering be desired. It does not require forcing, in the general 

 acceptation of that term. Lift a few examples during late autumn, and pot them 

 up, afterwards standing them in a cold frame. If kept free from frost, and 

 watered as they require moisture, they will come into flower early, and prove 

 most useful for conservatory decoration during February. The large bright 

 golden yellow flowers are also extremely useful for cutting, and for this purpose 

 alone a good batch would prove useful in any garden. After flowering, turn the 

 plants out of their pots, divide, and plant out in rich ground ; water freely if the 

 weather be dry, and they will be ready for potting again in the autumn. 



Hoy a bella. — M. C. G., Romford : The requirements of Hoya bella are a light 

 porous soil and a well-drained pot or tub. The compost should consist of fibrous 

 peat, loam, and leaf-soil, mixed with an abundance of mortar-rubbish or sand and 

 finely broken crocks. From August until February very little water is needed, 

 and during the winter a temperature of 55 degrees will suffice. The best time to 

 repot or plant out this Hoya is during February or early March ; the warm 

 greenhouse will prove a suitable home for it, and we should not hesitate to pot at 

 once rather than badly starve the specimen. If placed against a brick wall the 

 Hoya needs little support, as it emits rootlets from the stem which cling to the 

 rough surface. Hoya bella comes from Taung Kola, and was introduced in 1847. 

 The genus was named after a Mr. Hoy, who at one time was head gardener at 

 Syon House, Brentford. The hoyas are popularly known as Honey-flowers. 



Nitrogenous Manures for Potatos. — B. K., Cambridge: Either 

 sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda are excellent nitrogenous manures for 

 potato cultivation if given as top-dressing. The former, if a good sample, should 

 be used at the rate of 1% lb. per rod, this amount being applied in three 

 dressings of half a pound each, at the first hoeing, first earthing, and final 

 earthing up ; these latter, operations take place approximately at the middle of 

 May, beginning of June, and middle of June. Nitrate of soda may be applied at 



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