342 



GARDENERS' MAGAZINE. 



May 28, ,898. 



Melons in Pots. 



The culture of melons is frequently ably treated on in the pages of the 



Gardeners' Magazine in its calendar notes, but as it is impossible to 



go into details in the same, a brief note on pot culture may not be out of 

 place Many have failures with melons owing to the rich root-run 

 afforded, or to which the roots gain access. One may, however, with 

 advantage employ pots, and thus curb the roots, and by so doing induce 

 early fruiting, and prevent gross leafage. In the first place, those who 

 need early melons will find pot culture the best, as here earlmess is 

 ensured, and though it is not well to overload the plants, there is no 

 difficutly in taking three nice- sized fruits, and even four, from a plant in 

 a large pot. There is another mode of culture well worth noting, and 

 this is what may be termed the cordon-system. This consists of growing 

 in smaller pots, 10 inches being ample. The pots are plunged to the 

 rims ; this allows of liberal top-dressing after the fruits are set, and the 

 perfecting of fine fruits. By cordons it will be understood a single growth 

 is secured, and the plants are from fifteen to eighteen inches apart in the 

 bed at the time the pots are plunged ; this may appear close, but it 

 should be remembered that with cordon growth there is close stopping 

 and the melon does remarkably well under this system. Naturally only 

 a limited number of fruits must be taken ; from a large variety two fruits 

 are ample, three from a medium, and four from a small sort. On the 

 other hand, if earliness is the cardinal point, I should not hesitate to 

 allow one or two fruits on a plant here and there, as it is important to 

 obtain the first set so as to give all the plants the same treatment, for 

 with fruits at different sizes or ages there is a difficulty in finishing 

 them. 



With melons grown in houses the plant is allowed to run to three or four 

 feet and then stopped, and the fruits secured at the earliest period possible. 

 Of course, shoots not needed for fruiting are stopped closer. By this 

 mode of culture the roof space is quickly covered, and fruits are obtained 

 in a shorter space of time than if the plants are allowed to make more 

 growth. More than the requisite number of fruits are set, so as to be on 

 the safe side, and only the best retained. There must be strict attention 

 to stopping, as if the growths run wild there is an end of the cordon 

 system, and the plants fail. With fruiting shoots a little licence may be 

 allowed, but I stop at the second joint beyond the fruits at the start, and 

 allow more joints for future stoppings, as it is an easy matter to tie 

 up the growths so that they do not interfere with the other plants in 

 bearing. For small houses this mode of culture is advised, as it soon 

 furnishes fruit, and, if desired, many varieties may be tried. On the 

 latter point, it is doubtful advice to recommend mere variety, and I do 

 not do so save merely for the sake of trial. 



There are other advantages in this system, for gross growers fruit 

 more freely, there is less anxiety as to setting, and the crop is obtained 

 in less time and with less fear of canker than usual. When in pots the 

 plants can be treated better as regards foods ; a much firmer, shorter 

 growth is thus secured, and early fruiting induced. The crop, though 

 smaller probably than on plants with more freedom, is more reliable. 



I have dwelt at greater length on cordon culture than I intended, but 

 the system is not unlike that for melons in larger pots. Large pots may 

 be employed ; many use inverted seakale pots, and this allows of rooting 

 through into the soil, but this matters little so long as the pots are sunk 

 and liberal top-dressings given. I rely more upon the latter than deep 

 root action. For very early fruiting I find sixteen-inch pots large enough ; 

 indeed I have frequently used twelve-inch pots with advantage ; much 

 depends upon variety and feeding. For pot culture one may use a richer 

 soil than is often advised for melons as growth must be quick, and 

 several crops may easily be taken in the same house by having sets of 

 plants to follow each other. With early fruiters much better results are 

 secured by the use of bottom heat, and, of course, if the pots are too near 

 the hot- water pipes there will be few bottom roots, and in this case there 

 will be more need to encourage surface roots. We feed our plants freely ; 

 the pots are not quite filled at planting, and new soil is given as growth 

 is made, but near the stems care is needed to place porous materials. 

 This method is for early fruits, but for later crops larger pots filled at 

 planting time are adopted, and a liberal top-dressing of bonemeal and 

 loam given later. 



I am not in favour of starving melons iby the use of poor soil ; it is far 

 better to obtain early setting and sturdy growth by giving less root-run. 

 In frames or beds of manure here we always plunge large pots, and fill 

 these with the rooting materials in preference to the chance work of 

 having to wait a much longer time for the fruit, for restricted root-action 

 is conducive to early setting. So far I have never seen evil result by a 

 free use of good soil, provided it is given so that the fruits have the 

 benefit of it, and this, I think, will be best insured by liberal top-dressing ; 

 there are other means, such as liquid manures, once the fruits are set, but 

 the evil to be avoided is feeding before it is needed, as there should be 

 enough food in the soil, even in pots, to build up plants large enough to 

 produce abundance of flowers. There are a few difficulties with melons 



urns 



■ 



Potting Chrysanthemums. 



A very important stage in the year's work amongst chrvsamfc 

 reached when the plants are sufficiently advanced to xLZT^ • 

 potting. Generally speaking, this final potting time is durin / 

 week in May, but there may be, and in most collections doubtlf '** 

 are, a number of plants which will require potting a few davs 

 later just according to their condition. No fixed date need be * ° F 

 time for the work to be done is always governed by the weather ?h ^ 

 state of the plants themselves. It is most unwise to leave plants i 

 pots when they really need shifting into larger ones ; and on the h 

 hand, it is equally bad practice to give more root room before the six I 

 pots are thoroughly well occupied with roots. As it is almost impossil 

 to have the whole batch of plants ready for potting at one tim 

 supposing it were desirable to do so, there is a week or two ocnS 

 more or less, in putting the plants into their flowering pots The laW 

 involved in this final potting and subsequent arrangement in'their summ^ 

 quarters, is perhaps the heaviest item in the whole season's work alS 

 though it must not be regarded as the summum bonum, any more ' tha 

 any other detail may, it certainly contributes largely to ultimate succe&T 

 There are many details m connection with the work on which advice 

 will bear repetition to those interested, and to none more than to those 

 who take up the cultivation of chrysanthemums as a recreation for their 

 spare time. 



One needs ever to be looking ahead, and to make due preparation 

 before the work requires to be done. Soils, manure, pots, stakes fa, 

 should be to hand early in the month, so that no unnecessary delay is 

 caused for want of these at the proper time. The loam for this shift 

 must be the best procurable, containing plenty of grass-root fibres, and 

 should have been dug a few months previous to using. Chop or pull the 

 turves into pieces as small as chicken's eggs, and in like proportions, the 

 following quantities will compose an excellent potting soil : Three parts 

 loam, half part each leafsoil, decayed horse manure, old mortar rubble, 

 and ashes from garden refuse fires, with a sprinkling of finely ground 

 bones. Of this latter .use more or less according to the quality of the 

 loam. It is a mistake to add a large quantity of artificial manures, as 

 this only renders the soil unhealthy for the new roots, and is much better 

 given at a later period. The manure from old mushroom beds is 6m- 

 rate for lightening heavy soils, and may be used a little more freely than 

 that which is less decomposed. The bone meal should be of best quality, 

 and a few half-inch bones may be sprinkled over the drainage for all the 

 strong growing varieties. Soot we do not use in the soil, but later in the 

 season it is given freely in the water. 



For the greater number we prefer ten-inch pots, but for late-struck 

 plants, and for those naturally not over robust, smaller sizes are best, as 

 it is worse to give too large a pot which does not become well occupied 

 with roots than one too small. Mutual Friend, Australie, Baron Tait, 

 Lady Byron, Theres6 Rey, Reine d'Angleterre, and others not more 

 strong growing, do best in nine-inch size, whilst Hairy Wonder, and such 

 moderate growers, will do well in a slightly less pot. Any varieties, too, 

 which are especially liable to damping of the blooms, must not have the 

 largest size pot ; over strong growth must not be encouraged, as it pre- 

 disposes the plants to this weakness, Drainage must be carefully and 

 systematically laid in the pots, as a free outlet for the quantities of water 

 which chrysanthemums need is most important ; a light dusting of soot 

 may be sprinkled over the drainage to prevent worms readily finding their 

 way into the soil. The bones used either in the soil or over the drainage 

 must not be raw ones, as these are very apt to cause an unwholesome 

 condition of the soil, into which the roots will not readily P enetl J* 

 Frequently mistakes of this kind have been made, especially m P ulu ?J 

 too many amongst the drainage, where their decomposition has joiw 



J 5 6 Dissolved bones are the best 



Before potting be sure the plants are in a moist condition, though 

 not like repotting a plant immediately it has been watered, mcc >m 

 of the most fibrous soil over the drainage to prevent the nne m 

 washing down into it, and take care that the new soil is neitner ury % 

 wet, as either condition is not suitable for good potting 

 plant so that half an inch of soil may cover 



cause of a serious injury to the roots 



the surface of the ball, and 

 do not nil the pots" too"full7 about an inch and a half space sbo 

 left for watering and subsequent topdressmg. Pot evenly <m — ( 



in pots, one being that more moisture is needed at the season the fruits ™ ™ ru "^ s f c , a usm S tne £ s ^ rh *Se5 

 are swe ne- than ic » ena n„ . i u... carnations to be the same as that on chrysantnem 



are swelling than is usually given ; more foods are also necessary, but 

 there is a gain in the end, as one can feed at the right moment and omit 

 moisture when the fruits are maturing, thus securing better flavour. 



Syon House Gardens. 



throughout, so that water will soak regularly through. >ow ^ 

 be given for a few days after potting, but if ^^"f^stx the 

 dry frequent syringings will do much to help the plants r ^ 

 check of repotting They may stand close together for a wee^ 

 then, about the middle of June, be arranged in their summe ' t ^ hough I 

 I have not seen any further traces of the leaf rust, a ^ ^ 

 would urge all cultivators to keep a sharp look out tor in s, 

 any traces they may find, I do not anticipate tfraej inw 

 with the fungus causing the disease. Supposing the variety ^ 



• rvsanthemums, I may po'" 



G. Wythes. 



' nths DCC<W* e 



the probability are thatthe spores remain fertile for some mo ^ ^ 

 on an imported carnation plant we found spots last autumi , N(j ^ 

 carefully removed, and the plant constantly watched ever d ^ ^ $poC 

 fungus marks developed until recently, when we nave w 



Hardiness of Tea Rose Safrano We were able to cut some very nice 



blooms of the above rose both from the open and against a very much exposed 

 east wall on January 4 of this year, which says a great deal for the hardiness of 

 the variety, as we registered 9 degrees of frost during December, and there were 

 plenty of buds to open on January 4. It would be very interesting if some of 

 E ~™P°? dents wo ? ld g>ve their experience of the amount of frost rose buds can 

 Z 21 « w 0pC r satlsfactoril y afterwards. Several of the hybrid perpetuals 

 fZl u « r b , looms ' n J anuar y, so also didGloire de Dijon and Homere from the 

 open garden. -R. Turnbull, Beachky, CheMow. 



or two. 



Trent Park Gardens. 



\V. H. LE 



— — ^ ^^^^ 



jj^j^ the 



A RACE FOR LI FE is taking place in our midst every day, **J»°J£ k ^ 



some 



When too late they see their error, and bitteny ^ ccorc iing to 

 grave. Holloway s Pills, if taken in regulai ■ closes » anQ 

 blood. Diseace is thus prevented from "? ke ™ n V£ nt Jry, and stomach 

 ititution is enioved. At this season, when fevers, avs 



speaa 



[Advt.J 



