1898. 



GARDENERS' MAGAZINE. 



359 



WORK FOR THE WEEK. 



WARM ORCHIDS. 



hA] , n0 nsis Schroderianum will now be growing freely ; the roots 

 B**°2EJ thernSves from the suspended pans or baskets searching for 

 Jill be forcing themsei ^ ^ ^ wil , be benencia ], and 



S underneath the stages and all about the floors several times 

 teW^Ck The syringe musl be used freely several times a day on 

 ^ £?JZ£L - by so doing, thrips, &C, cannot lodge about them ; besides, 

 fcvo urable occasions i, y ^ g shadin will be necessary, but the den- 

 ^ moisture reiresnes Famount rf ^ ^ enabHng them to make sturdy 



* obiamS vTLtion by the lower openings must be given, and the top ventilators 



keen the house at a reasonable temperature. It is useless to attempt 

 H • this house as used to be the case in growing orchids, 



Ld only to 



» — ' .pmnerature in cms nuuse as uscu iu uc & — - > 



to keep one »^ fast ^ required to SUC ceed well. Guard against dry heat, 

 °° heck the fires at any time when the weather will allow it, to allow the 

 always c natural heat as possible. 



fh S5.«1ottis aurea and S. Kimballiana will be commencing to grow, and if pot - 

 Quired this may be done now, the compost to consist of equal parts fibrous 



tine IS req uu ij _„J n k nnn ^ ^omnm These thrive well in 



These thrive well in 



for water in 



S and loam, a little leaf-mould, and chopped sphagnum. 1 hese 

 ^rm shadv place, grown in pots and kept below the nra to allow 

 Growing season. Aerides that have been imported must be well washed, and 

 .Handed upside down along the pathway, or anywhere in a shady place where 

 can be syringed to encourage root action, before placing them in their pots 

 %baskets the latter being preferable for the dwarfer growing kinds. Stanhopeas 

 arc very irregular in their habit where any stock is grown ; some are flowering, 

 ottos commencing to grow, &c. ; as a rule, they are very much neglected, and 

 allowed to grow wild as it were. They ought to be treated individually according 

 to their respecdve habits. Those that have overgrown the baskets may be divided, 



supposing they are in a proper state. Those likely to ilower will require slight 

 witering, sufficient to keep the bulbs plump until growth appears. Teak wood 

 baskets are required in order to allow the spikes to push their way through, and 

 the right materials to use are rough peat and sphagnum, very few crocks, with 

 openings between ; these are well worth growing for their curious type of flower 

 and the odour they give. 



The hot rays of the sun we have occasionally will be too much for phalsenopsis, 

 and the shading must be put down earlier in the morning when neces- 

 a . In addition to the blind outside another one must be nailed up to the 

 rafters inside as a permanency for the season, more especially if lath blinds are 

 used, besides being an additional shade, as a matter of fact, must retain the 

 moisture, always allowing a nice growing atmosphere. The bottom ventilators 

 most be left open night and day with the exception of a wild night. After the 

 inner blind has been nailed up less water will be required ; syringing between the 

 cylinders twice a day and damping all round, and a slight spray overhead in the 

 morning, will suffice for a time. Where only a small stock is grown they can be 

 placed in one corner of the house and treated accoidingly. 



The cattleya house must have a good damping in the morning, and the plants 

 a syringing between the pots and a spray overhead before the hot rays of the sun 

 appear ; the floors damped again at noon, and another good damping in the after- 

 noon. This must be done according to atmospheric conditions outside. The 

 temperature will be higher with the weather being warmer— phatenopsis, 70 

 degrees night; cattleya house, 65 degrees night; intermediate, 60 degrees 

 night. The above will all rise during the day by sun, and ventilation must be given 

 accordingly.— -T. Stafford, Tyntes field Gardens. 



CONSERVATORY AND GREENHOUSE. 



Camellias in pots or tubs which flowered early will have now completed their 

 new growth. It will therefore be necessary to keep the atmosphere of the house 

 tie) have been growing in somewhat drier, to harden the wood and prevent them 



Hiring into a second growth. As the wood and foliage becomes harder less shading 



will be necessary, and in a few weeks the plants may be arranged in a sheltered 

 nook outside Although the plants have finished their growth the roots should be 



u! L°c U ? t u 7 lth T ea , k lic J uid manure or soot water a t •east once a week, which 

 SIS the D tlower b " ds ^ plump up later on. Azaleas require much the same 



taiLr™? u Plan l S 10 a c ° o1 ' aif y house u they finish their growth, 

 £ S2??n Sy " nge t 5 em freely t0 kee P thri P s in check - Gradually expose 

 Z foun' ol,w e - SUn ffi aDd S< ? P I epare them for standiQ g in a sunn y P° siti °n when 



ftfe to »r£ ?h 18 f ff l Ciently firm to stand the ful1 force of the sun. It is always 

 sue to syringe the plants once a week with some weak solution rather than allow 



a^emrri?^ en - USe stron S me asures to dislodge them. With ericas 



are ereadv InSST fiS™ 13 s ° metin,es Poetised in giving water and the plants 

 X? b nec™ J* C ! ng T dry - The Com P° st is ™de*very &m in the pots, 

 SieiSSSS. TO 1 " E IantS S6veral times over before the ball is thoroughly 

 ^0 reat S i. I by cha0ce ^ of P^ts have become too dry, the best 

 AerSwhSL to P lu ?? e the pots in a tub of water for several minutes. 



too dry Se rnt ^K d ° 1Dg WeU WOuld more than P robabI y be fou "d to be 

 nl,„,7A. h , e , f oots lf the y w ere turned out of their oofs and examined. The 



The 

 The 



Shade 



Plants should " i wcr \ l V rn , ea out ot their pots and examined. 

 « position LZZf Z.? ° f ^ heS ° r shin gle to retain moisture, 

 ^e plants £ a sE H Y * l eaSon ' is an °P en wood trellis or stage 

 ^ the st ongest sW "?n ^ th f- SUD Strikes them full y- Pinch the points out 

 *e rim of the noS <n I * ™ ^ kmg the Iead ° f ° thers ' or draw thei " towards 

 What pottinc r untJSr u giV ,V he Weaker shoots a chance of strength. 

 «ock £ caS Softo „7 ^K Uld * c ? m P leted forthwith, but in pitting up young 



quite sufficien ° 8 p C • * u°° krge * Shift ' an inch S P«* round th e ball 

 the soft wood section en,, n 1S th e "sual compost used, though we have grown 



Greenhouse 



^ofa^s^sr"? -f wc 2 in good ioam and shar p 



Poetically need no S/ u 5 flc ^? P rofusel y through overshading. They 

 should S d ^^ just as new wood is being made, 



* ^ thoroShlvTS^ ^ dln f ly the folia 2 e is fuI1 y formed - T he wood 

 W Spotted ilmo Tit? npei ^ n every shoot wil1 P^duce bloom. These 

 ZS^^SS£m l Z S !t SOn, but WC prefer P° ttin gas the plants pass out 

 ^tablished in the n« "growth commences. The roots then become thoroughly 



6 new com Post before autumn.-R. Parker Goodwood Gardens. 



Owiro to A.H , THE FL0W ER GARDEN. 



^ late, and wheTe muS ^^^'^M^ plants are holding on into 

 S When the seSons a ^e J f U f mmer u beddl ^ 15 done the spring bedders Ire in the 

 J 0 ****, by thbdate hi £ f n aS he prc ? at ,° ne - Summer bedding-out should, 

 * thin" ™Z f S T g> Under s P eciall y Quired condi- 



h desifed g The r bC , Cl ^ red for ^ with if a satisfactory summer 

 5?, Sub i<*ts as 'nansie, IIT' ^ W ? ~ nsid ^ ra % filiate the removal of 

 2ff*« *Uls in thfre^" j ? nd theSe should be laid in temporarily in 

 ^ Vision late on %l ga ^ to in the way of propagation 



Pnmroses and polyanthuses may be treated similady^ or if 



lime allows, be pulled in pieces now and planted direct into the reserve garden in 

 duly prepared and rather shady borders, at about eight inches asunder each way, 

 where they should make good plants for use again in late autumn. All these 

 transplanted subjects should be supplied with water when necessary. Bulbous 

 plants, as daffodils and tulips should, if it be desired to preserve the bulbs in 

 good condition for next autumn's planting, be lifted with as many roots as possible, 

 ajid be laid in shallow trenches in the reserve garden, and if here allowed to 

 ripen off naturally, the bulbs will suffer but little from the moving. As soon as 

 the leaves wither and ripen off, the bulbs should be lifted and spread out 

 m a dry cool shed preparatory to cleaning and storing. A method practised here 

 with several beds of yellow jonquils and Narcissus poeticus is to lift the bulbs 

 from the beds, lay them out on mats while the beds are dug, and manured if re- 

 quired, the largest bulbs are then selected and planted in these or other beds in 

 patches of five or six bulbs with the tops twisted together into a knot, at a space 

 of six to eight inches apart each way. Where the beds are to be planted with 

 pelargoniums or similar subjects, these are easily planted between, and when 

 cleared off in the autumn the bulbs have made a good start. 



I rom this date the bedding out of sub-tropical and other somewhat tender 

 plants may be generally undertaken in all southern localities, and in less favour- 

 ably situated districts a week or so later. A sub-tropical garden or bed should 

 occupy a sheltered position, where plants of such handsome leafage as ricinus and 

 others may be screened from rough winds by belts of trees or shrubs, yet be open 

 enough to receive all sun warmth from south and south-west, this being essential 

 to ensure free growth and finely coloured foliage, otherwise few of these subjects 

 make a satisfactory display. Where palms are employed, the pots should be sunk 

 into the soil and a small quantity of coal ashes or fine rubble placed underneath 

 each pot. A well-grown kentia or seaforthia forms a good central plant in a 

 large round bed filled with sub-tropicals of a lesser growth. Such a bed may be 

 carpeted with a grey-leaved sedum, as S. glaucum, and thinly planted with dark- 

 leaved cannas, with a good palm for the centre. The variegated Dactylis glomerata, 

 violas, and such like may also be used as groundwork for hedychiums, draaenas of 

 the indivisa type, solanums, wigandias, and Ricinis Gibsoni. Other tall-growing 

 subjects are abutilons, Humea elegans, Melianthus major, niciotianas in variety, 

 acacias, grevilieas, New Zealand flax, aralias, and variegated maize ; while for asso- 

 ciation with these as marginal plants, Perilla nankinensis, Centaurea Clementei, C. 

 gymnocarpa, and C. candidissima, Amaranthus melancholicus ruber, Chamsepeuce 

 cassabonce, and C. diacantha may be used. All bedding plants turned out of pots 

 should be in a moist state when planted, and the soil and roots will be in the best 

 condition for planting, if watered an hour or two previously. The recent showery 

 weather has been favourable for the planting out of frame-raised annuals, and beds 

 filled with seedling of double zinnias, gaillardias, verbenas, petunias, antirrhinums, 

 &c, soon grow away, and may take the place in many instances of pelargoniums and 

 others that have of necessity to be kept under glass for some months. Annual 

 sunflowers should be planted forthwith ; the tall growers are effective at the back 

 of herbaceous borders where room can be given. Annuals in variety sown on 

 borders, or in the reserve garden for cutting from, should be thinned out to a few 

 inches apart as soon as large enough to be handled. All dahlias should be planted, 

 and given a mulch of rotten manure. 



Where wallflowers are required for spring bedding the present is a suitable 

 time to sow seeds to produce good stocky plants for going out in the autumn. In 

 hot light soils a north border should be chosen for the seed bed. The seeds should 

 be sown thinly in shallow drills drawn out six inches or more apart. As soon as 

 large enough to moue transplant to other borders, allowing a space of nine inches 

 apart each way. The varieties are now numerous. A good dark and yellow is 

 Veitch's Blood Red and Belvoir Castle Yellow ; while a pale primrose will be 

 found in Faerie Queen or Primrose Dame. A very early-flowering variety is 

 Sutton's Earliest of All, which blooms in autumn and midwinter, if the weather be 

 not very severe. Campanula calycanthema, C. pyramidalis, and C. pyramidalis 

 alba should also be sown now. — C. Herrin, Dropmore Gardens. 



HARDY FRUIT. 



With genial rains all kinds of hardy fruit will have greatly benefited, as owing 

 to the small rainfall during the winter and early spring the soil was very dry 

 indeed, and insect pests were becoming most troublesome. Unfortunately for the 

 tender kinds of fruit, we have during the past few days experienced very cold 

 weather, the night temperature having been very low, and with cold easterly 

 winds prevalent the growth has been retarded, and in a few instances I have 

 noticed wholesale dropping of fruit. This is to be deplored, as the stone fruits, 

 such as apricots, early peaches, nectarines, and plums are none too plentiful. 

 Doubtless the dropping is influenced by imperfect setting and the cold weather 

 combined, indeed the growers of hardy fruit have a difficult task, as with every 

 promise of success after a poor season a few days bitter weather soon destroys all 

 prospects of a future crop. With a spare crop, and should warm weather follow 

 the weather described, growth will be most vigorous, and here the fruit grower 

 will need to use discretion, as upon the management of the trees now will greatly 



depend next season's crop. 



The production of gross wood must be prevented, and with certain kinds of 

 trees it is an easier matter to advise than to carry out, as in the case of pears and 

 apples, unless there is free extension the roots have too much play and the trees 

 fail to crop if closely stopped and the roots not interfered with for years. On the 

 other hand, at this season much may be done by pinching in preference to 

 the free use of the knife when the trees are more advanced in growth. I 

 find we obtain much better results from our cordon pears and apples by regular stop- 

 ping from now to the end of June than by hard cutting of young shoots after that 

 date. In stopping young trees one may with advantage remove weakly shoots 

 altogether, as by hard cutting in the winter every small bud produces a shoot. 

 Spur-pruned pear trees on walls are often seen a forest of small, weakly shoots. 

 I am aware there must be enough retained to equalise root action, but with ample 

 fibrous roots such a large proportion of small, weak wood is not conducive to fruit 

 bud formation. I have found a great gain as regards these fruits by thinning the 

 growths at this season ; it not only induces fruit spurs to form and mature — the 

 latter equally important as formation of fruiting wood — but the wood made when 

 ripened is able to produce better fruits, and to battle against variable seasons. I 

 see no necessity whatever for letting wall-trees take their chance from now, and 

 allow all the fruit that shows to ripen. Standards are better able to bear heavy crops. 

 I have dwelt upon stopping and removal of useless wood, but thinning of fruits 

 should now receive equal attention. Unfortunately in our case with some varieties 

 we have but little to thin, as our early peaches are very few indeed owing to the 

 severe weather we had at the end of March, whilst the trees were in full bloom 

 and our favourite nectarine, Lord Napier, of which we have a goodly number of 

 trees, suffered badly. On the other hand, Early Rivers passed through the gale 

 uninjured, and this may have been owing to the bloom being a little more 

 advanced. This will become one of the most valuable trees a fruit grower can 

 have as it is from ten days to a fortnight earlier than others, and what is better it 

 is a splendid grower, and quite at home on different aspects. Apricots are swell- 



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