39 2 



GARDENERS' MAGAZINE. 



WORK FOR THE WEEK. 



WARM ORCHIDS. 



Up to the present time potting has been the work of greatest importance, 

 consequently insect pests have had more opportunities than usual, so it would be as 

 well to have a general examination and cleansing of the stock. The cattleyas, at 

 such busy times, are apt to get 



a m mm • 



the bulbs, clouding the dormant eyes : this pest must receive immediate attention, 

 being injurious and unsightly. Cattleya aurea is generally first attacked, and if 

 the plants are not in the best of health they will suffer considerably. In the case 

 of Cattleya Mossise, C. Mendeli, C. gigas, C. Warneri, C. labiata, and C. 

 Harrisonice, a good and a safe plan is to paint the base of the bulbs with methy- 

 lated spirits in a pure state, using a soft camel-hair brush ; this is a successful 

 remedy, but great care is necessary in its use, for if the spirit comes into contact 

 with the roots they are likely to suffer. I have experimented on the bulbs, but 

 not on the roots, and would not recommend others to do so. Cattleya aurea will 

 require more water during the growing season, but do not deluge it if the plants 

 are to be kept in a flourishing condition. Discretion must be used as to the out- 

 side conditions as well as the inside ; watering twice a week is quite sufficient, 

 though during hot, dry weather frequent damping is essential. The second growth 

 on an imported plant is generally the strongest flowering growth, and if flowering 

 fails, then the third proves to be the best, b"t after this a rest is essential, bringing 

 it again on a par with the previous year. If convenient, less shading should be 

 given this than the members of the general collection of cattleyas ; the foliage will 

 appear light in colour under this treatment, but the tint is natural, and we always 

 find imported foliage yellow. Another queer subject is Cattleya gigas, which 

 will be found very easy to grow, but difficult to flower, and hence is not a great 

 favourite with growers ; this will be now advanced in growth, and must have more 

 water afforded, but otherwise the same treatment as C. aurea ; the same remarks 

 apply to C. Hardyana and C. Massiana, which are natural hybrids between C. 

 gigas and C. aurea. 



Calanthe veratrifolia will be growing freely, and copious waterings will be 

 necessary ; this species thrives well at the warm end of the cattleya house, 

 requiring plenty of shade during sunny days. It is an old orchid, and generally 

 found difficult to grow, but if kept clean it usually does well ; weak liquid cow 

 manure, given occasionally during the season of growth, is very beneficial. The 

 flowers of this calanthe are very useful for any floral arrangement Chysis 

 bractescens and C. aurea will be growing rapidly, so copious waterings must 

 be afforded, taking care not to wet the foliage, or it will spot ; weak liquid 

 cow manure will be also beneficial to this and similar orchids. Great care is 

 necessary now as regards shading, damping, watering, and cleaning ; damping 

 must be done in the forenoon, after dinner, and again in the afternoon ; there 

 must be a free circulation of fresh air night and day, with both top and bottom 

 ventilation ; liquid cow manure should be thrown on the floors occasionally 

 as before advised, and the syringe used freely where advisable. — T. Stafford, 

 Tyntesfiehl Gardens. 



CONSERVATORY AND GREENHOUSE. 



Winter flowering or tree carnations will be now well established in their 

 flowering pots, and abundance of ventilation should be given the plants to prevent 

 the grass drawing up thinly. In some favoured localities, the plants may be 

 partially plunged in a bed of ashes outside, but we find it best to use frames for 

 them, so that the lights may be placed over, should there come a spell of dull, 

 wet weather. When the soil becomes overcharged with water, the roots do not 

 make healthy progress, which is soon noticed by the foliage losing its natural 

 healthy colour. The lights can always be well tilted at the back, and what 

 watering is required is best done each morning. One central stake is sufficient for 

 most of the plants, the different shoots being supported by neat loops of raffia. 

 When it is seen that one or more of the growths is taking the lead too much, the 

 points of these should be pinched out, so that all may grow equal. During dry 

 weather, the plants are greatly benefited by dewing the foliage over, and also the 

 surface of the plunging bed between them. A slight shade will also prove 

 beneficial for a few hours while the sun is hottest, but it is a mistake to shade 

 them for long or too heavily. Cyclamens, cinerarias, primulas, and other winter 

 flowering plants, should be arranged in shallow frames which are partially shaded 

 from the sun. After each potting, it is necessary to keep the lights over them and 

 the atmosphere moist, but we find when the plants are growing freely, they level 

 in being exposed to the night dews, whenever it is considered safe to draw the 

 lights off. These plants may be grown to a large size in small pots, which makes 

 them so much more acceptable for filling vases for room decoration. This should 

 be be me in mind when potting, and to have them at their best, in say, six-inch 

 pots, a carefully prepared rich compost should be afforded, and this made fairly 

 firm about the roots. Always crock the pots carefully, so that copious waterings 

 may be given without fear of the compost becoming water-logged, and as the 

 plants will be standing on a cool, moist base for many weeks, where worms prove 

 troublesome, a little soot sprinkled over the drainage will prevent them entering 

 the pots, and at the same time stimulate growth later on. 



The shifting of chrysanthemums into their final pots should be pushed forward 

 now, as such work should be completed if possible by the third week in the 

 month. This is a heavy item of labour, and occupies much time in many gardens, 

 but it is work that cannot be done hurriedly if the best results are required. We 

 recommended preparing a good heap of compost for the purpose some weeks ago ; 

 this will now be in first-class condition. The pots, too, having been selected, 

 cleansed, and crocked properly, will allow of the workman proceeding with his 

 work without a check. . As it is not always the best policy to water plants directly 

 they are potted, two important matters must be seen to, viz , that the compost 

 used is in a suitable moist condition, as well as the ball of the plants, at the time 

 the work of potting is done. The plants should be carefully looked over about 

 two hours beforehand, and any requiring water should have sufficient given to 

 thoroughly penetrate every part of the ball, which will give time for this to drain 

 oil and leave the plants in the best possible condition for potting on. When a 

 plant is watered and potted directly afterwards, there is a danger of making the 

 soi go to a pulp by the ramming in of the new compost, and the plants never do 

 well afterwards. It is also a mistake to arrange the pots in their permanent 

 summer quarters until a week or fortnight after potting. By standing them fairly 

 close together, say, in beds of four rows, so that tney may beiattended to for water- 

 !w;^\V° ne the , other to a 8 reat extent from the force of the sun, and by 



™7< ii Cm ? VCr Sever , al dmes a da y during hot weather, and also between the 

 K w u ro ° 5 are ™ ade m *he fresh compost before much watering is required. 

 When the plants have recovered from **** ~WV ^ ^ 



require it. Pot on reccntlv. st ruck cuttings ; thej* will make compact 



J u »* 18, 1898. 



plants and prove pleasing objects for dwelling-rooms if th* 

 and about half a dozen or so of shoots secured. No enrl J^„ P0l u tS ,V e Uken <** 

 force growth by feeding at the roots. Given a good Uo™Zt°^ * mad «* 

 require much assistance until the buds are secured then 1 pla , nts *Wom 

 act beneficially if used with care and wisdom. O^t^R^ S ° me 

 many promising collections of chrysanthemum plants, hence th^T^ ^ luin of 

 of warning, especially to young men and would-be prize mnZrl nZ v my *** 

 — R. Parker, Goodwood. pnze Wlnners n <*t November, 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



The most important work of the flower garden at this season * 1 

 out of the summer occupants— should by the time this note amL I? tm * 

 finished, and where not completed an endeavour should be made to fin?^ "J* 

 delay. The stormy weather at the time of writing has been somewh* f \- m ^ n{ 

 the work, and the temperature much lower than is usual at beddTnl S S*? 

 indeed, a summer below the average warmth seems very probable THp l 1 



ever, that have fallen have not been sufficient to moisten plants to the 1 

 bedding stuff should have one thorough soaking of water given while if a u 

 of cocoanut-fibre refuse can be afforded where the arrangement allows of its bei 



applied, further watering will not be necessary, at least for some time In ord#: 

 to encourage a free growth in the plants calceolarias and pelargoniums should 

 have the flowers removed for a week or so after planting, and the points of any loo* 

 shoots taken out to induce a bushy growth and the covering of the allotted soa* 

 as soon as possible. Window-boxes and .vases filled with pelargoniums 

 should be kept clean and free from decaying foliage, and where trailing plants are 

 used on tall vases some means should be taken to prevent damage from wind ■ 1 

 piece of wire or string passed round under the rim of the vase, to which one 'tic 

 may be made will suffice. Herbaceous perennials have made considerable progress 

 during the past few weeks, although peonies and other subjects are considerably 

 later in blooming than has been the case in the few preceding years. The showers 

 experienced have not been sufficient to moisten the soil around the roots of 

 peeonies and others with considerable leafage, and these will be much benefited bt 

 an occasional soaking of water or weak liquid manure. Staking and tying of many 

 occupants of these borders will be necessary, and this should receive attention 

 before the tops become over heavy and tying is more difficult. 



Several varieties of the tall-growing Michaelmas daisies will require stakes, and 

 if it be wished to somewhat dwarf their growth, five or six inches of the tops may 

 be taken off now, as this will not spoil the flowering. This treatment may also be 

 given the tall-growing chrysanthemums or Pyrethrum uliginosum at the present 

 time. One of the best blue-flowered summer perennials is Anchusa italica, pro- 

 ducing freely stems from two to four feet in height, furnished with lowers of an 

 intense shade of blue, and continuing in bloom more or less throughout the summer. 

 The flower stems must be kept erect, and should be tied to stakes, and not 

 bundled together, which spoils the effect. The double White Rocket, a very 

 sweet, old-fashioned plant, and useful at this season where many cut flowers are re- 

 quired, should also be neatly tied to short stakes. The bright red spikes of the dwarf- 

 growing Heuchera sanguinea are effective either in the border or when used for cut 

 flowers. As soon as flowering has passed the plants should be lifted and divided 

 if it be desired to increase the stock, and in any case, if the clumps are large, this 

 operation will be necessary to ensure good flowering plants for another season. 

 This plant appears to flower more freely in heavy rather than light soils, as here, 

 where the latter prevails, the plants grow strongly, but the flower spikes are thinly 

 produced, whereas in a clayey loam I noticed similarly sized plants were flowering 

 profusely. Carnations are fast throwing up their flower stems, and these must be 

 secured to small stakes, or where grown in reserve for cutting purposes they may 

 have twigs of birch stuck around them to keep the flowers off the ground. It 

 occupies less time than tying to stakes, and for this purpose answers just as well. 

 Where large flowers are desired the small side buds should be pinched off early. 

 Among the roses green-fly has increased wonderfully the past week or two, and 

 frequent syringings with quassia mixture, as before advised, has become necessary 

 to keep this pest under. The bushes should be thoroughly cleansed, if P 0KlW ^ 

 before the blooms open, and if the liquid be used at a temperature of a ^ ut * 20 

 degrees the mixture is the more effectual. In the pleasure grounds where rnpao- 

 dendrons are grown, these should be examined while in bloom, and m the case 

 choice hybrids worked on the ponticum stock, any shoots growing away Itonw 



u 1 j ■« ~ r fko« hntowm and destroy the vanei) 



latter should be removed, otherwise in time they outgrow and destroy 

 worked upon it. — C. Herrin, Dropmore Gardens. 



HARDY FRUITS. 



weathe 



Since penning my last calendar note we have experienced most ■ changea 

 tther, cold nights being the rule, with much rain and little sun near uy 



hangeable 

 day, 



wcdiucr, uuiu uigais ueing me ruic, wnu — n'allv heinf 



and though the moisture was much needed for the roots, wall trees espeoauy w«» 

 very dry, the want of sun has caused insect pests to spread rapidly, 



unless taken in hand at an early date, will cause much mischief, , 

 first, as these are badly infested with black fly, in spite of much at tention ea j 



the season, and as tne iruus 01 me camcai 7— & . ° f u„ r «icp strong 



show signs of colouring, there must be no delay in ^^"^S 

 insecticides will render the fruits uneatable. Much may be done by stop^ 



badly infested with black fly, in spite 01 ...uv... " ,, ^ 



s the fruits of the earliest varieties are growing fast .and wtf soou 



previous to washing the trees ; indeed, neglect of stopping is often the fc 

 trees being dirty, as I have found trees regularly pinched out, and noi ^ ^ 

 grow so long that the knife must be used, are not nearly s°.subject to au ^ 

 stronger shoots. I noted the importance of early stopping soroeww "£ ouUe> 

 now add that there will be no gain in further delay, or, Witt I W«* "> 

 some, the crop will be ruined. Previous to a final cleansing m our j, ^ aAjwm . 

 soil, I always find it advisable to give a good mulch of manure sp strtwy 

 bed manure is excellent, but one is often obliged to make stims, . ^ ^ 

 manure will answer well ; this is necessary as the cherry so j£on ^ 

 of strong sun heat after dull, rainy weather, and the roots D«ng ^ ^ 

 are greatly benefited by the mulch given just as the fruits are mU st be do 

 swelling. Cow manure in light soils is an excellent mulch, in ^ ^ ^ 

 further delay in netting, and give as light a cover or net as pa , ^ 

 cover induces insect attacks, and prevents the trees ^ne^ing nig n ^ fa 

 are helpful to the foliage. If a heavier shade "is needed to ' P r « er $ dfrny or 

 better use it during bright sunshine in the way of any extra ^ ^ 



canvas than as a permanent shade. Cherries split bad^r he seas ^ ^ ^ 

 the fruits are quite ripe, and any crop to be kept may wen oe y 

 or sashes placed over the roots to throw off excessive ramtaU. tf , ^ 



Annie tree, in m.nv nW« need attention even at this eany ^ 



j , * - "~"«w 1 rum the check of Dotting and have com- 



menced to grow again, they should be stood 



watering KcnJT* a wa y not to shade each other ' Even '"en 



lu<- v«iuus iciueuies lor mcu »w~w . ■ „ lSC Q i SU i»'- -; • 



mencea to prow t v, u ,j t " - *, ° — used as earl y as possible. A great deal may be clone ; in - dress j n g of 



Ttlvtl ot ^ strline^w « e> ' ^i 0 ^ * stood in lines and made secure to neat handpicking and burning the grab, and then giving the trees i a . J£ A***** 

 5S£ £SS d ^- ,n - s ? ch a w a y not to shade each other. Even then cide by syringing freely 2 late hi the day. I also notice the dj« #g 



blight, in spite of a dripping month, has made its appearance. m ^ ^ , 

 be lost in exterminating this pest, as allowed to remain it win 



