640 



GA RDENERS MA GA Z{NE. 



October l% 1§98 



WORK FOR THE WEEK. 



COOL ORCHIDS. 



The summer-like weather experienced during the last month has been very 



favourable to the occupants of the cool houses, although on several occasions it 



was impossible to keep the temperature in the house below 75 degrees during the 



hottest hours of the day. But, with the ventilators thrown wide open, admitting 



abundance of fresh air, which is always welcome to cool orchids, and the free use 



of the hose pipe, a humid atmosphere was easily maintained. The newly-potted 



odontoglossums derived great benefit from a frequent dewing overhead through the 



sjringe ; the weather having been so favourable, this has been done almost daily 



since potting time, and it both encourages root action and keeps the leaves and 



pseudo-bulbs plump. Overhead syringing must be discontinued now, however, 

 except on very fine days, and then great care must be taken not to let any water 

 lodge in the young growths or injury may follow. With such a high night tem- 

 perature as prevails at the time of writing, air may still be freely afforded during 

 the night, and unless cold nights should set in, no artificial heat will be necessary 

 for some time ; it should be borne in mind, however, that it is best to have a little 

 warmth in the pipes and the ventilators open, than to close the house up without 

 any heat at all, as a saturated atmosphere, together with a low temperature, is 

 most injurious to cool orchids. The temperature will now, under ordinary 

 circumstances, range between 50 to 55 degrees by night, and 58 to 60 degrees 

 by day. 



Should the masdevallias have a house devoted to them they may be kept a 

 few degrees warmer than above, as the plants are not so liable to spot when 

 grown a little warmer than the odontoglossums. Seldom do we see a collection 

 of masdevallias free from black marks and spots on the leaves, and the chief cause 

 of this is a low and uneven temperature at a time when the atmosphere is at 

 saturation point. When the external air is warmed above forty- five degrees, the 

 ventilators of the masdevallia-house ought always to be freely opened, and it is 

 essential at all times that a little air be admitted to the house. Shading may now 

 be dispensed with on all houses with a north aspect, and the blinds, after being 

 thoroughly dried, should be removed, and stored in a dry place until wanted 

 again next season. With more exposed houses, the blinds should be 

 allowed to remain for a few weeks longer, as they may be required during the 

 middle of the day, using them only if the sun be very bright, as the plants will 

 take no harm from a little direct sunshine. 



Odontoglossum Rossi, O. Cervantesi, O. aspersum, and O. Humeanum, are now 

 growing freely, and will require a good supply of water, but care must be taken 

 not to allow the compost to become sodden. Sophronitis grandiflora is also growing 

 freely, and will require a good supply of moisture until the growths are complete. 



— E. Shill, New Hall Hey Gardens. 



CONSERVATORY AND GREENHOUSE. 



The weather of late has been most trying to pot plants, especially those which 

 have been standing in the full force of the sun, such as chrysanthemums, salvias, 

 tea roses, epacris, and many others required for winter flowering. Not only have 

 these needed looking over several times a day to provide the roots with water, 

 but more copious syringings have been necessary to counteract the trying influence 

 of the sun on the foliage. Most of the plants mentioned will have practically 

 finished their growth, and will now be developing bloom buds ; consequently, 

 liberal supplies of water are necessary to plump them up to the largest size. Now, 

 also, is the time that such plants require feeding ; I do not advise gorging the 

 roots with strong, rank manures of any kind, but by using weak soot water and 

 diluted farmyard liquid alternately, better results are obtained, and less risks are 

 run than m using too freely some of the patent manures the grower knows little 

 about until too late, when the roots of his plants have been burnt, and his pros- 

 pects of a good harvest of bloom spoilt for the season. The roots of all pot 

 plants standing on a bed of ashes or by the side of paths, &c, will naturally 

 st rike through the drainage in search of moisture. This should be avoided by either 

 placing a piece of slate under each pot, or twisting the latter round once a week. 

 Most of the buds on chrysanthemums will have been selected by now for large 

 flowers, but even where the plants are grown in the ordinary bush form, for cutting or 

 for use in the house as pot plants, the most pleasing results are obtained by thinning 

 the buds freely. When this is not done, especially with some varieties, the flowers 

 are much too crowded on each spray to look pleasing either on the plant or in a 

 cut state. Nothing is more disappointing after a season's attention to find 

 buds being spoiled by the attacks of insects. A sharp look out must be kept 

 for earwigs, which generally prove the most troublesome. The remedies 

 have often been given in these pages, and only require to be followed up with 

 zeal, to ward off attacks and save disappointment. Cleanliness is a great thing 

 where the plants are arranged. Where litter is allowed to accumulate, the insects 

 complained of are sure to abound. Keep the surface of the bed where the plants 

 are arranged raked or swept clean. Some of the early varieties are swelling their 

 buds a -pace, and it will be necessary to remove the plants under cover as the 

 petals show colour, as these are sure to suffer with the advent of rains and winds. 

 It is right to keep the plants in the open as long as possible, but it cannot be 

 considered safe to do so after the end of the present month. When that time 

 arrives, we have had to house the plants very hurriedly in some seasons, as a 

 sharp frost, or a severe gale, will prove most destructive ; it is therefore most 

 necessary that everything should be in readiness. Fruit houses are generally 

 used to arrange most of the plants in. Early vines should have their growth cut 

 back to, say, a couple or three leaves, which will not injure the vines, and will 

 admit light. Some temporary staging should be arranged on which to stand 

 the pots, and also to walk upon in attending to watering, and so save damaging the 

 roots of the vines situated near the surface. See too that there are no broken 

 panes in the roof, as a leaky roof proves anything but satisfactory, and many 

 tine blooms are ruined by drip. 6 



In the conservatory it will be necessary to water beds and borders copiously in 

 Zdu!\ S ^^amelhas and other things are planted. Camellias especially 

 ESS 5k 7 ° r UqUld manure ' now the b »ds have formed, and on no account 

 AH tW T T n %V m l r °^ h a dr * condition, or the buds will fall wholesale, 

 encn ™ better also for frequent syringing, as it not only 



lade. 



lapagerias, passion flowers. VurnL.Tf, " b? U gainvilleas bign 



nias, coboeas, 



uu, un,y secure neatness and make it 'w "7 ~ ~ 7iT A ™ e ™ g 



reach <>th<>r orrn»^«te i.* . !t better for new growth, but more li^ht 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



The storing of winter roots will now be occupying the attention „f ^ 

 gardener. This important operation ought not by any means to be dnn he 

 careless manner, for it is not only a waste of time, but of material also 7 m a 

 good roots and then allow them to spoil for want of care in storing r ar ? P° W 

 a rule, are not very good this season, therefore, extra care should be Si 

 preserve them. The most suitable place is a cool shed, where a little nrnr*? t0 

 can be afforded in case of severe weather. When stored away in a cellar 7 1 

 very cold, the roots start into growth, which causes deterioration and if* \W • 

 allowed to continue they become very stringy, and are almost worthless • if s tor H 

 away in an open shed facing north, with the upper portion exposed, and the low* 

 part covered with sand, they will remain sound for a considerable time • there ' 

 no difficulty in covering with a little dry litter in case of a severe frost As a ru} S 

 cooks prefer the young roots drawn from the ground ; it is, however," not alwavs 

 practicable to grow sufficient of these to supply the requirements of a large 

 establishment, hence the reason for storing the summer crop. Parsnips 

 are far sweeter when used fresh from the ground, but it" is always 

 advisable to store a few in case of severe weather, but this should not 

 be done while the foliage is so fresh and green. Beetroots should be 

 stored, as recommended for carrots, but care must be taken in lifting the roots 

 so as not to damage them in any way. The same remarks apply to salsify and 

 scorzonera. Celeriac, on the other hand, ought not to be lifted at present but 

 when severe weather approaches sufficient should be stored for a supply while 

 bad weather lasts, and what remains in the ground should be earthed up to pro- 

 tect it from frost. 



Asparagus beds intended for forcing should have the growths cut off as soon 

 as they turn yellow, so that the crowns may have a rest, before the roots are 

 lifted. Cut down the old stems from globe artichokes and place some litter 

 round the roots at the first convenient opportunity to prevent the frost from in- 

 juring them. Leaves will soon be falling apace ; these should be collected and 

 placed in heaps ready for making hot-beds. It will not be safe after this date to 

 allow the lights to remain off such things as peas and French beans, as we may 

 expect frost at any time ; indeed, we have already registered two degrees, there- 

 fore, material should be had in readiness for protection. — H. C. Prinsep, Bnxted 

 Park Gardens. 



FRUITS UNDER GLASS. 



About this time it becomes necessary in gardens where the accommodation 

 under glass is limited to crowd all available structures with chrysanthemums, 

 bedding plants, and other tender things that have been during the summer months 

 growing outside. Many people object thus to fill their vineries, but I think the 

 objections are more apparent than real where a good grape room is available tor 

 storing the bunches. This is a necessity where such a use has to be made of 

 the houses, as fruit will not hang safely on the vines when daily watering of plants 

 has to take place beneath them. Chrysanthemums, especially of the Japanese 

 type, which sometimes require a little fire heat to open them, are very good subjects 

 for late vineries, as the heat afforded helps to ripen the vine wood. A really fine 

 day should be chosen for cutting the grapes, especially where the grape room, as 

 in my own case, is at some distance from the vinery, and can only be reached by 

 making a short journey in the open air. Dryness and warmth of the atmosphere 

 are imperative. The room should have been well ventilated and dried up ; and 

 the bottles, filled with fresh spring water, in their places in the racks. In 

 cutting the grapes, I take no account as to which end of the lateral is prepared for 

 insertion into the water, and frequently find it convenient to place the upper or 

 44 wrong " end of the shoot in the bottle, and the grapes keep just as plump as if 

 the shoot is reversed. This allows one to leave a little foliage and a fair length 

 of lateral on the vine to finish ripening. See that the shoot goes well into the 

 water and without causing the latter to overflow and drop among the berries or 

 on the floor. I do not sear the exposed ends of the shoots with a hot iron, nor 

 use any other means, such as smearing with styptic to close the pores ; the grapes 

 keep just as well without it. Neither do I use any charcoal in the water, as the 

 spring water we have remains perfectly fresh and sweet. All the after attention I 

 give is to keep the room dark and as cool as possible, short of reaching freezing 

 point ; occasionally the bunches are looked over for decayed benies, but artificial 

 light is always employed to see them by, for I make it a rule never to open the 

 windows nor the shutters, as the room gets the very little ventilation it needs in 

 other ways, and provided it is in a thoroughly dry state, I believe a room for 

 keeping grapes is best without any ventilation. 



While the houses are still empty it will be well to examine the borders once 

 more, and give them another soaking of water if they seem dry ; this will in all 

 probability tide them over the winter, but the matter should on no account be 

 neglected. The autumn is the best time for carrying out any lifting of vines, re- 

 making borders, or any other root disturbance that may be thought necessary. 

 Where grapes shank badly it often proves the salvation of future crops to 

 thoroughly remake the borders, and get rid of all unhealthy roots that may have 

 penetrated the subsoil, and especially any that are abnormally thickened at the 

 extremities, for such roots as these are invariable accompaniments to shanked 

 berries, and are best cut away back beyond the immaturely thickened part. 

 Fibrous roots of the normal type will need no pruning beyond cutting away any 

 damaged portions, and they may then be relaid in the border, keeping them well 

 up to counteract the downward tendency in future. Vines in the earliest house 

 should now be pruned and made ready for starting again. They should break 

 freely and well, when started later on, for the sunshine we have enjoyed during 

 the past few weeks has ripened up the wood well, and made amends for the ^ 0 ^ 

 spells of cold and dulness experienced earlier, and which made things very back- 

 ward. All wood-work, walls, and the vines themselves should be well scrubbed, 

 using hot water and soft soap for the woodwork, and warm water and Gishur.st 

 Compound for the vines ^this will ensure a clean start. I do not advise scraping 

 the vines, further than to remove loose strips of bark, or smearing them with tne 

 dirty mixtures so commonly used, and should only do the one or the other in 

 extreme cases of insect attacks. I have great faith in what I recommend above 

 as cleansing agents when vigorously and plentifully applied.— J. C. TaU-ACK, 

 Livermerc Park Gardens. 



Single China Asters—What charming subjects these are during the 



exceptional dry weather we are now experiencing. They are single-flowered ^tornv 



at once 



of a half 



inches or 



•hardy annual, though little known in gardens yet. Growm 

 so high, and producing delicate lilac blossoms freely, they are 



either for mak.ncr o a;^~„ m'wrA hnrder or in lines. 



occupants _ 



we arc now havbg.-R^ l^^S^^, 



valuable, either for making a display in the mixed border or in lines, rerha ps 

 for the decoration of vases indoors they are at their best, as the blooms fully jour 

 inches m diameter, with a full complement of golden anthers in the centre, steh 

 to lend themselves to this form of decoration perfectly. I have grown them am 



Ban's novelties, and am pleased 



