yo6 



GARDENERS' MAGAZINE. 



October 2 i 



1 808. 



WORK FOR THE WEEK. 



placed thickly together on the bed and covered with aboutfoi^ 

 soil. Care must be taken not to allow the fcrinenti^^ffi^^itt 

 heated or the roots will be burned, at the same time a amioi T ^ come over- 

 maintained or growth will be stunted. After the first sW ^ pe ' at £ r s must be 

 The time is now at hand when the application ot water to cool orchids will require the seakale will begin to fall, the roots may then be lifted and the crown f ° lia§e of 

 most careful attention. To give a hard and fast rule as to the amount of water each forcing. To grow tender and crisp seakale too;much heat should w k Preparcd for 



• ' -'— ' and if forcing can be done without the aid of fire heat sc 



temperature of from 55 to 60 degrees suits the prn.tfc ^S?* 6 .^. A 



COOL ORCHIDS. 



The time is now at hand when the application of water to cool orchids will require the 



spot 



species requires is impossible ; what one requires is discretion and keen observation 

 regarding the state of the weather, the size and health of the plant. A plant in a large 

 pot with a huge mass of material about the roots will not need water nearly so often 

 as one in a smaller pot. It is generally understood that orchids should be kept in 

 a rather dry state whilst inactive, but even this must not be overdone, for I have 

 seen plants so shrivelled by drought as to be beyond recovery. Ada aurantiaca 

 is a species that requires little water during the winter months, but the soil should 

 never be allowed to become thoroughly dry ; this species thrives admirably in 

 company with the odontoglossums during the summer months, but should now be 

 placed in a slightly warmer house for the winter, for if kept cool the leaves become 

 spotted on the under surface and a check is given. Laelia harpophylla will only 

 need sufficient water during the dull months to keep the pseudo-bulbs from shrivel- 

 ling, and it is also much better if removed into a warmer house. Epidendrum vitelli- 

 num having now made up its new pseudo-bulbs should have a much smaller supply 

 of water at the roots until the flower spikes commence to push forth next spring ; 

 this species, like Odontoglossum Rossi, will stand the cold better than most cool 



orchids, but if subjected to too much w t ^ 



OdoDtoglossum madrense is a very distinct and handsome cool house orchid, 

 the deliriously fragrant flowers lasting several weeks in perfection, and plants of 

 it have formed a special feature in our houses for many weeks past ; usually, by 

 the time the flowers fade, the pseudo-bulbs are fully made up, but if the spikes 

 are removed as soon as the flowers are fully open the bulbs are then about half- 

 grown, therefore the plants should be generously treated until growth is complete, 

 after which only sufficient water must be afforded to keep the roots from perishing 

 and pseudo-bulbs from shrivelling. The Brazilian oncidiums, as O.varicosum, and 

 its fine variety, Rogersi, O. crispum, O. tigrinum, and O. Forbesi, are now throwing 

 up their flower spikes, and it should be remembered that it is an easy matter for 

 these plants to exhaust themselves by abundant flowering ; indeed, this is often 

 the cause of plants gradually dwindling away. The best practice, even with strong 

 plants, is to cut the spikes off as soon as the flowers are open, placing them in 

 water, where they will keep fresh for a good length of time. With regard to small, 

 weakly plants the spikes should be pinched out as soon as they make their ap- 

 pearance. Oncidium concolor will not require much water now, the compost 

 being kept just moist until the flower spikes appear. Cattleya citrina is now 

 growing freely, and should be kept moderately moist at the root ; it should be 

 given the warmest position in the house, or better still, if convenient, be removed 

 to a warmer house.— E. Shill, New Hall Hey Gardens. 



CONSERVATORY AND GREENHOUSE. 



The season has arrived when the plantsman must be ready for sudden changes 

 of temperature, and once more it has become necessary to have the heating 

 apparatus in proper working order, so that the necessary amount of warmth may 

 be given at nightfall not only as a preventive against frost, but also against a low, 

 sluggish atmosphere. All available space under glass in many gardens will be 

 crowded with a variety of plants which require such protection directly frost 

 threatens, but unless a buoyant atmosphere is maintained many of the occupants 

 soon show the evil results of overcrowding and the want of pure fresh air, causing 

 many to damp off. It is far safer to maintain a gentle warmth in the pipes with a 

 certain amount of ventilation at the highest point of the house or pit for the escape 

 of condensed moisture, thereby keeping the ventilation closed, with a view to 

 saving fuel. Damp during the prevalence of November fogs proves most 

 destructive to plant life and the lasting properties of bloom. The condition of the 

 atmosphere in the conservatory may be kept slightly warmer than that in the 

 greenhouse to suit the requirements of palms and other things ; moreover, for 

 some weeks to come banks of chrysanthemums, bouvardias, primulas, and such like 

 will be giving a gorgeous display, and to retain the flowers in a fresh condition as 

 long as possible the greatest care should be exercised in watering the plants. The 

 roots should never lack moisture, but in applying it see that as little as possible 

 is spilled about the stage and floor. As regards syringing, this should be curtailed 

 as much as possible, and the palms and other foliage planis need only be slightly 



before sun^t^ ^ bright mornin 2 s> allowin S lime for the dampness to pass off 



Some little anxiety is caused the last thing at night to determine whether it is 

 necessary to turn on a little heat in case of frost. We have always found it better 

 at this season— especially with houses where the occupants are kept as cool as 

 possible to retard their flowering— to turn on sufficient heat to nicely warm the 

 pipes, and then shut it off the last thing. This, as a rule, is sufficient to ward off 



"£">cf j« "nu tnai tne " cfcmk " turned on over night was not sufficient to caust 



TT r( L U * nd SO have the mortifi cation of finding Jack Frost had made an entry. 



Unheated pits may still be used for cinerarias and other things which it is neces- 

 s **y to re *ard for succession, providing double mats are available for covering 

 the glass when their use becomes necessary. These and many other tender 

 foliage plants soon fall a prey to green fly, when the ventilation has to be 

 reduced. It is a great mistake, and proves anything but a saving in the cost of 



tumigating, to defer doing so until the pest has gained a foothold. A slight fumi- 

 gating once a wppL- r>r t«« A*„~ 1 1 .1 P« 1 «. ~ — ^* a- 



temperature ot Irom 55 to 00 degrees suits the growth of rttToJ 1 • S tu A 

 perfect darkness must be secured if a crisp sweet growth is to l^pSSS y§ ^ 



Mushroom* will now be m great demand, and as the outside II f . 

 duced their growth will be lets rapid, therefore artificial means i?^ b re ' 

 if a supply is to be maintained. Where beds were made 



cellar, these will now be ready for bearing, so that if a little water be riiS h ^ 

 to about 70 degrees, just sufficient to moisten the surface of (he beds vK u , d 

 afterwards be covered to prevent evaporation, the mushrooms will ^n^Ss 

 appearance. Collect and prepare more material in readiness as other bed, f~, 

 exhausted. We have at last had some rain, which has moistened the soil 

 fore those who have not previously been able to put out their spring cabbage mav 

 now do so, and the sooner such work is completed the better. P av narf \ 



to become drawn for want 



of air, or frosted owing to neglect to put on the lights.— II. C. Prinsep 



Buxted Park Gardens. 



FRUITS UNDER GLASS. 



Pot vines for carrying the earliest crop of grapes are a great relief to the earlv 

 vinery proper, which may be kept back for a few weeks yet, and thus escape the 

 hard forcing during the dullest part of the year which is necessary to produce rioe 

 grapes early in April. Such hard forcing has a bad effect on permanent vines 

 and the produce is never reaily first class. It is time now to put the earliest pot 

 vines into position for forcing, as a slow start with moderate heat is better than 

 delaying later and then pushing growth on rapidly. Good light pits with a sunny 

 aspect are the best quarters that can be given, the pots being stood on piers or 

 some other rigid foundation near, but not close up, to the front wall, and sur- 

 rounded with a good body of oak or beech leaves which have already fermented 

 slightly in a heap outside. Some growers use stable manure with the leaves, but 

 this is often the cause of too rapid fermentation, producing too much bottom heat 

 to begin with and over-stimulating the roots, which is one of the worst things that 

 could happen. Leaves, on the contrary, if well prepared and sweet, give off a 

 gentle heat which lasts for a long time. They should be packed tightly round the 

 pots and brought up nearly to the rims. Test the bottom heat frequently, and if 

 it should rise much above 70 degrees pull away some of the plunging material for 

 a day or two, replacing it when danger of overheating has passed. In cases 

 where it is impossible to use plunging material in the usual way some means must 

 be devised for keeping the pots moist at an equable temperature, and not sub- 

 jecting them to the sun's rays. Quite the best lot of pot vines I saw fruited this 

 year had their pots placed in others a few sizes larger, at the bottom of which were 

 placed a few inches of good, rich soil, the remaining space being filled up with 

 green moss, which was kept damp all through the season. It is not always convenient 

 to provide extra pots in this way ; but rough-made boxes, or even a plank or two 

 set on edge, would answer the purpose intended, and should be easily available. 

 The vines should not be at once tied up in position, but should be bent round so that 

 the middle part of the canes, which generally produces the weakest breaks, is most 

 elevated, as this will help to induce regularity in breaking. No cutting of the 

 vines must take place now, as this would induce bleeding ; if any of the lateral 

 growths have not already been removed they should be left intact for the present, 

 and have their buds rubbed out as the vines break into growth ; this is a veryg 

 way of dealing with vines that have been a little backward in ripening, for, though 

 the short lateral growths which some vines produce more freely than others make 

 the rods look a bit rough, they do no harm whatever, while cutting them away 

 now, or within a few weeks of starting the vines, might cause bleeding. The 

 proper temperatures for the pits to commence with will be 50 degrees by night and 

 55 degrees by day, allowing the usual 10 degrees rise above this with sun heat. 

 These temperatures should be the maximum for the present, and no harm will 

 accrue if a degree or two less occur in very cold weather, as this will be better 

 than firing hard to keep to a fixed standard. Syringe the vines once or twice a day 

 when the weather is fit, but not late enough in the day to have moisture hanging to 

 them during the night ; also keep the walls and plunging material moistened on 

 the surface. The roots, of course, must be supplied with tepid water as they need 

 it, but they will not require much until growth is being freely made, so that care is 

 necessary not to give overdoses of water at the start. Ventilate slightly on all 

 favourable occasions, but exclude draughts and close up the pits early m the 

 afternoon before the temperature begins to fall. 



Fruiting vines will need careful attention in the matter of heating arrangements. 

 The bottom heat should not fall below 85 degrees, and should be kept at that as 

 nearly as possible. It is at this time of the year when bottom heat from hot- 

 water pipes is most valuable, as it is not possible to regulate the heat properly 

 with plunging material alone. The top heat may range from 70 to 75 de S' ee ? \ 

 night, and a good rise allowed with sun. Damp down between and round about 

 the plants freely in fine weather, but avoid overhead moisture, and leave on 

 watering at the roots when the fruit begins to colour. Allow a fall in the nignc 

 temperatures for successions to arrest growth during the winter, 60 to 65 degree* 

 is quite hot enough at night, and the plants will require but little water.— J. 

 Tallack, Livertnere Park Garaens. 



utit 



_ , • »* — ~- » b ^ until me pesi nas gaincu a luuuwiu. ai^m iuim- — 



O °°" a w « k <* «■> days will keep the foliage clean at a triHin B cost. As Tree Leafage in Towns —How well in the autumn thick-leaved trees, 



Inv IS' l°1 gmms ^ '*">"• »» °->'r * few t """ s ' sunshine at the best ' «* • ««* « E plan", vtae and i»T amongst other things, demonstrate 



" 'on^ X '< , T. SfcS*?*** 4! ir™^» ld ;°™ding vat 5 XSt MVS^ On theothe, hand. -Ma 



ness 



any shading which was used on the glass during the summer should be washed off 

 at once, so that all the light possible can reach the plants below. Creepers, too 

 (Oat have been trained to the roof might be thinned somewhat with advantage, as 

 these not only obstruct light, but the long trails of foliage aie apt to hold the con- 

 (tensed mo ,sture from the roof glass, and perhaps cause a drip to fall on other 

 things situated beneath them. It is almost impossible to keep plants healthy, or 

 10 preserve bloom, unless the roof is drip-proof. — RICHARD Parker, Goodwood 



early 



th 



plant 



lupcii. £iccu ieaiar 

 and largely fallen. 



called 



KITCHPM fAnncKi Z 3 ' uen * doubtless the excretions 01 iimt 



QAI * DEN - . „ J/ h °ney dew, not only early exhaust the leaves, but 



;etables are in request leaves should now be collected for glutinous cause dirt rapidly to accumulate on them, anc 



because rendering tne 



i the stomata 

 remain green 



if collected when drv u\ 0r chestnut leaves are the aS inca P able of Performing natural functions. In the country limes ^remaic i yr^ 



erow h ^JSlR W,H n * am the heat for a considerable period. As the much longer, but still are amongst the earliest to show the ejects of root dfOJgPJ 



^^r^^i^^JT^^^.^ tte " 0at r ta ' 25 !? .t L~ ° f .«» ^ "esTof auTumn town trees. Late in showrng j-^Jj 



Butt t 



beds 



generate 



crowns. If leaves and stable Hrta. 7*?*°™°? a ne * Iu .y 1UU 

 over a (rm .,n™e7„ i7 . " tter aie m ixed together in equal portio 



over 

 up and 



a\s 



bed 



x uc ..g i S one or the very best of autumn town trees. Late u. - _ 



carries them in vigorous condition very late into the autumn. 50 also , 

 vine. The rich crimson coloured variety Coigneti* should make a capital 

 climber. Certainly any common vines are good ones, keeping foliage 

 does remarkably well, too, where established, but it well repays ; an occ ^ 

 washing. The tulip tree »hn its leafaee very late and green, an 



be taken and admirable town tree. A. D 



