868 



THE GARDENERS' MA GAZINE. December 31, 1898. 



WORK FOR THE WEEK. 



WARM ORCHIDS. 



Flowers of all descriptions will be at the present time very useful in every house- 

 hold, more especially those of orchids ; the commonest of them will be highly 

 appreciated, they being preferred to the ordinary garden flowers, and give a 

 sort of aristocratic appearance in vases and other varieties of ornaments used for 

 this purpose at the present period. Orchids of all descriptions are far better (as 

 all experienced growers know) to be in bloom as near their natural time of 

 flowering as possible. It is a well-known fact that thousands- of valuable plants 

 have suffered fatally owing to their being overdone by forcing too much, otherwise 

 being retarded at too low a temperature, all through the flowers from them being 

 required at some unnatural time. It would be well at the present time if all growers 

 would make notes of what species and varieties flowered at this season as a guide 

 for another year, independent of much forcing or retarding ; it is much better to 

 observe these petty (still important) things among our private collections, in 

 order to gain a fair knowledge of them, which is sure to be useful in years to come. 

 Cattleya Percivaliana, named in honour of Mr. Percival, of Southport, one of our 

 early lovers of orchids and possessing a very large collection, comprising some of 

 the choicest things in their day, will be now contributing to our displays that we 

 have at this time of the year. The white form, which is almost out of existence, 

 would be a great boon, and if it could be found in quantities it would be keenly 

 searched for. Cattleya Trianre is fast pushing its way through the sheaths ; it 

 would be well to place this variety at the warm end of the house, as in this state it 

 requires a shade more heat. Some of the selenipediums and cypripediums are 

 also making a display ; these also will require to be kept in a drier state at the 

 roots, in fact the former are far better kept on the dry side at all times, pro- 

 viding a genial temperature is always kept. C. bellatulum must be kept very dry ; 

 a good criterion to know when they require water in the winter months is to 

 guard against the foliage going flaggy, only allowing it to get in a certain state. 

 Of course, this depends mostly upon the surrounding conditions as to whether the 

 structures are new or old, and whether lofty or low, and many other simple 

 reasons why they should be carefully watched discreetly ; some of the hybrids 

 resulting from bellatulum and niveum are also very critical. Many times a plant may 

 be in the best of condition, and in luxuriant health (as it were), and perhaps 

 in the course of a few weeks, to the horror of the grower, it begins to get a few 

 black spots about the growths, which, if not guarded against in due time, 

 ultimately prove fatal ; when this occurs it is well to take a small penknife and 

 cut all the decay thoroughly out, and after doing so rub the wound well over 

 with dry sulphur, and keep the plant thoroughly dry ; a good plan is to suspend 

 anything of this kind, and dip the lower portion of the pot or pan until the plant 

 gets something like being in a fair way of health again. — T. Stafford, 

 Tyntesfield Gardens. 



5T0VE PLANTS. 



Begonias of the manicata type are now throwing up their flower stems, and 

 should receive stimulants regularly ; the best of these are very useful to all who 

 have flowers to supply in quantity during January, February, and March. The 

 individual plants should stand so that 'they do not touch their neighbours, and when 

 watering be careful not to wet the foliage, else damping of the leaves will occur ; 

 on well-grown plants the leaves should quite hide the pot. B. manicata is the 

 first to open its flowers, followed by B. hydrocotylifolia, this again succeeded by 

 B. heracleifolia nigricans, the latter bearing larger individual flowers on its long- 

 stemmed cymes but not produced in such abundance as the two first mentioned. 

 Begonias corallina, President Carnot, Haagtana, Knowsleyana, insignis, multiflora, 

 Gloire de Lorraine, and others have been affording flowers in quantity for some 

 weeks, and will continue if given good treatment and a position in a house with 

 a moderately dry atmosphere and a night temperature of 50 degrees to 55 degrees. 

 Where flowers are required in quantity during the winter months goodly 

 numbers of each of the above-mentioned begonias are indispensable. 



Other plants in flower in the stove at this season are eucharis, Jasminum 

 Sambac, rondeletia, aphelandra, Thyrsacanthus rutilans, Plumbago rosea, 

 poinsettias, euphorbias, gardenias, and a few others, including late started plants of 

 allamanda ; we find the latter very useful thus late in the year for the purpose of 

 associating with gold plate on the dinner table. Some people complain that 

 allamanda flowers do not last when cut, but if besides placing the stem in water a 

 little is poured into the cup it will enhance their keeping properties. 



Asclepias curassavica is a useful flowering plant at this season grown in the 



; we find it extremely valuable for buttonhole bouquets, 

 especially for gentlemen. The work in these structures will now be purely 

 routine, such as introducing flowering plants to bring them on in succession, 

 sponging and dipping plants infested with insect pests. A few of the earliest 

 rested tubers of caladiums may now be started, potting the tubers singly into small 

 pots m cocoa-nut fibre and sharp sand, plunging the pots in bottom heat ; they will 

 not require much water at the root, but may be syringed overhead two or three 

 times a day. Introduce a few more gloxinias to heat, these will afford flowers 

 useful to send to the family when in London. The flowers of these carry extremely 

 well if carefully packed. 



Stems of leafless draaenas should be cut up into lengths of about an inch ; split 

 in half lengthways and insert over the surface of pans containing peat and 

 v r leaf-soil and sand. If a position cannot be afforded them in the propagating 

 case, place a pane of glass over them, and stand the nan* over the refiner 

 troughs. Be careful they do not beco 



the 



supply them too lavishly with water. 



e too dry, and on the other hand do not 



Keep all evergreen stove plants moderately; moist, so that they may rest without 



a CaVeS; lf , the y be kc P* to ° df y for a time and ^en watered regularly 

 it will tend to start them into growth, which is to be avoided so early in the season. 



win^„«? njP ^ tUI f d ^ reeS t0 65 de S rees with 5 degrees rise from fire heat 

 SL ? V}* St0V ; Cat thlS Seasnn ' the intermediate house may range from 

 ^TT f * de 6 rces lo r r ' U ' lt has not a,read y been attended to, a quantity of 

 under rr 5? ' Tl ° ther in g redi <*ts used in potting should be placed 



when Zl : f i may h l ^ Vaikble when re <l uired - frosty weather, 



2 d tin^ £ C f ° f 25 * omd 15 juSt Sli 8 htl y ha ' dened fa y frostf is the best time 

 which K wireworm is prevalent in the land from 



1 , hen ted weather p revaiis have a » p° ts washed , 



ffSST^SS^ P Cd A n i! ZCS ' and Crocks washed and ^nel so that when 

 n JS I nr r \ round al may be in readiness, and no time lost by having 



- £?, C °r d ^ S" more ^niently done weeksVfore* 



J. 1UNNINGTON, Rtpky Castle Gardens, Yorks. 



THE FLOWER 



setting in these may advisedly receive some protection, as a slight mulch of cocoa- 

 nut fibre refuse, old mushroom bed manure, or similar light covering. Beds of 

 carnations planted some time since may be treated in the same manner, old mush- 

 room manure being a very good material for using about these plants. As they 

 are liable to be lifted out of the ground or partially so by frost, a little covering of 

 this description will act as a preventive, and at the same time a slight stimulant to 

 the eventual growth of the plants. Clumps of Helleborus niger, now fast opening 

 their blossoms, should also be given some protection. Single clumps may be 

 covered with hand-lights or frames, and lights placed over those where several 

 together on beds are to be covered, affording air or removing the lights when the 

 weather is neither frosty nor wet. If glass is not available any temporary shelter 

 may be improvised, oak branches with the dry leaves still adhering being a good 

 one, and these may remain constantly over them. The season has been most 

 favourable for all planting operations, and very little check has been experienced 

 for this work either from wet or frost up to the present, and at the time of writing 

 the weather is quite favourable for the continuance of planting roses, trees, and 

 shrubs ; and where such work is unfinished advantage should be taken of the open 

 weather to make as much progress as possible while it lasts. A mulch of some 

 half-rotten material should be given before the ground becomes frozen. 



Cuttings of bedding calceolarias, violas, pentstemons, antirrhinums, and 

 other subjects struck in late autumn in cold frames should have a free circula- 

 tion of air about them when the weather allows, and all decaying leaves be 

 promptly removed. Owing to the mild weather these plants have made consider- 

 able growth, and many of the calceolarias, pentstemons, and antirrhinums already 

 need the leading points pinched out. Should frost set in the sides of the frames 

 must have ashes, bracken, or other material banked up round them, and the lights 

 covered with mats or litter. A somewhat similar treatment is required for violets 

 in frames. Particular care should be given in the ventilation of these, and the 

 lights be kept entirely off or well tilted, excepting in frosty weather. More harm 

 is likely to be the result from undue coddling than if left entirely exposed to all 

 weathers. Both double and single varieties are blooming freely up to the present. 

 Bedding pelargoniums will require little water during the short winter days, 

 especially if wintered in a cool greenhouse. Damp is the worst enemy, and a little 

 heat should be circulated in the hot-water pipes to dry up moisture occasionally in 

 the daytime, admitting plenty of air at the same time. With the lengthening of 

 the days varieties of which the stock is below the required quantity may be placed 

 in a temperature of 55 degrees to 60 degrees for the production of growth for 

 cuttings later on. 



Fuchsia cuttings struck in autumn should by this time be well-rooted, and 

 where desired to grow on into strong plants by bedding -time should now be 

 potted off singly into sixty-sized pots, using rather light sandy soil for the pur- 

 pose. Stand near the glass and keep them growing on in an intermediate or stove 

 temDerature. 



• ■ 



^^r^^^^y^ T ric ; ies and som * others, ari makin 



» eues oeing already well above around. In antiri 



ground 



anticipation 



pro- 

 frost 



in anticipation or baa weatner soils snouia oe prepared tor tne propagation 

 and potting of various bedding and other plants, and placed under cover to be in 

 readiness when required for use, and when outside work is impossible all dirty pots 

 should be washed and stored in their various sizes, crocks broken, sifted into 

 different sizes and stored in bins, stakes trimmed and pointed, pegs made for 

 layering, &c. Lawn mowers, if not already stored, should be thoroughly cleansed 

 and put away in a dry place, and any needing repair be sent to the makers now, 

 so as to ensure their being in readiness when required again for use. After cleaning 

 up lawns should be given an occasional rolling while the mild weather continues. 

 — C. Herrin, Dropmore. 



HARDY FRUITS. 



There is no better time than the present to feed fruit trees needing assistance, 

 and in the case of bush or pyramid trees on the paradise stock food is a necessity. 

 Many trees in their earlier stages are ruined by excess of food at a time it is not 

 needed, but if given in the form of surface dressings after they come into bearing 

 it is beneficial. Many trees receive the best of treatment at the commence- 

 ment, and are afterwards left to themselves. Trees on grass in orchards are 

 often seen starved, and here food may be given in the shape of well-decayed 

 manure, and for other trees, if manures cannot be spared, surface dressings may 

 with advantage be given, and such aids as road cuttings of turf, burnt refuse, 

 wood ashes, and bone meal mixed, will make a good top-dressing for the trees. 

 Prunings and [other waste materials if burnt are useful to add to the soil, and 

 I have found this with spent mushroom manure and wood ashes an excellent 

 fertiliser. It may happen liquid manure is running to waste, and this may be 

 given to fruit trees if the soil is given a good surface dressing before applying the 

 liquid, so that the latter reaches the roots. I have touched upon the necessity of 

 manuring the bush and larger trees, but there is equal necessity, if not more so, on 

 behalf of such trees as the gooseberry, currant, and other smaller fruits ; the goose- 

 berry repays liberal treatment, and a good mulch of decayed manure is most bene- 

 ficial. Raspberries may now be trimmed and the shoots tied up, cutting away 

 any weak*growth. We summer prune our canes ; this leaves little work at this 

 season if the old fruiting canes are cut out when the crop is cleared. I am a 

 strong advocate of mulching these fruits in light soils, as they root near the sur- 

 face. This should not be overlooked at this season, as I find, if left too late, at 

 times these plants are overlooked. Strawberry plants made this year a late 

 growth, and I notice the quarters are more troubled with weeds than usual. Here 

 the hoe must be used between the rows, but not in a way that the roots are 

 loosened ; indeed, in the case of young plants, previous to hoeing, it will be well 

 to make the soil firm by treading round each. 



The pruning of orchard standard trees will now need attention, as I find there 

 is no better time than the present. By pruning it must not be understood I mean 

 severe cutting back, as with old trees this is not advisable ; much better results 

 will follow thinning out, and it may not be out of place to refer to the waste of 

 time in keeping old, worn out, cankered trees. These do not benefit by pruning, 

 though I have seen severe measures taken to bring such trees into a bearing state. 

 Thinning out and removal of cross branches will be the necessary work with 

 standard trees, and, if possible, avoid cutting away much growth at one time. 

 It is far better to prune annually than leave alone for years and cutting away a 

 S reat deal ? f wood at once. The centres of trees should be left open to admit 

 light to the inner wood, but no one need hesitate to cut out poor growth. All 

 kinds of bush apple and pears should be pruned, and in the case of old trees in- 

 clined to produce small fruits good results will follow removal of crowded spur- 

 growth, and especially with pears, and by thinning more light will be admitted. 

 Very old spurs that are some distance from the base may be shortened, care being 

 taken to leave a wood bud for a new break and form new fruit buds later. Weak 

 and spray growths should be cut clean away ; these are not needed, and to leave 

 eyes or buds will only induce a fresh break of useless wood. Leading shoots of 

 apples or pears may be shortened to within three inches if the trees are fiill-sized 

 and extension is not needed ; but it is well to remember by continual cutting m 

 of shoots and giving roots free play, there will be little fruit as the trees 

 become older. -G. Wythes, Syon Gardens. 



