TRAVELS IN ICELAND. 



137 



fottrnjng with sulphuric fire and exhaling smoke; while the 

 summit, according to them, was covered with boiling springs, and 

 large craters which continually propelled smoke and fire. They 

 told ii3 that Hecla was provided with a guard of black and 

 singular birds of the conformation of the raven, armed with 

 beaks of iron, with which they gave a very unpleasant reception 

 to those who had the temerity to climb the mountain. This 

 story is one remnant of the popular prejudices that have been 

 formed with regard to this mountain. Our guide, nevertheless, 

 assured us that he never perceive^ either the birds, the fire, 

 or the smoke. 



We had an opportunity during our journey to mount Hecla, 

 to contemplate its environs, which on the south and west sides 

 ■afford the most afflicting specimens of frequent eruptions. The 

 finest part of the territory in question is covered by torrents of 

 melted stone, sand, ashes, and other volcanic matter. Between 

 the sinuosities of the lava we observed, in different parts, some 

 portions of meadows, walls, and broken hedges ; and our guide 

 informed us that on the east and north sides the devastation was 

 still greater, and afforded dreadful traces of the ruin of the country 7 

 and its habitations. 



There are neither grass nor plants to be met with to the ex- 

 tent of two leagues round mount Hecla, in consequence of the 

 soil being covered with stones and lava ; and in some parts 

 where the subterraneous fire has broken out afresh, or where 

 the matter which was not entirely consumed has become ignitod 

 again, the fire has contributed to form small red and black hil- 

 locks and eminences from scoria?, pumice-stone, and ashes. The 

 nearer we approach towards the mountain, the larger are these 

 hillocks ; and there are some of them the summit of which is a 

 round valley, whence the subterraneous iire ejects the matter just 

 mentioned.. 



As we approach towards mount Hecla, the ground becomes 

 almost impassable, particularly near the higher branches of lava 

 which have been thrown from the volcano. Round the latter 

 js a mountain of lava, consisting of large melted flag-stones,, which 

 are from forty to seventy feet high, and in the form of a rampart 

 or wall. We were here obliged to leave our horses : and even our 

 guide begged to be excused from attending us any farther, under 

 the pretence that he had a violent head-ach : but the real reason 

 we suspected rather to proceed from the operation of his pre* 

 judices with respect to this terrific volcano. The flag-stones 

 alluded to were detached, and mostly covered with moss ; while 

 "between them were very deep holes, which prevented us from 

 advancing without the greatest circumspection. We ascended 

 on the western side. The rocks appeared very strange to us, for 



olafsen.] n 



