CULTIVATION OF THE NARCISSUS IN GARDENS. 
benefited by having plenty of air and light, and the foot space between 
the rows makes it easy to keep the ground open with a small hoe ; a very 
beneficial operation, both in autumn and again when the plants are 
coming through the ground in spring. Here, again, the white Daffodils 
require rather exceptional treatment ; they do best planted very closely 
in their rows, in fact, almost touching one another. 
The depth at which a Narcissus bulb should be planted varies accord- 
ing to its size and according to the nature of the soil. The depth of soil 
above the neck of the bulb — ^the neck is that part near the top where the 
bulb begins to s-well out into its ovoid form — should be 1| times the 
depth of the bulb itself. This gives an average covering of from two to 
three inches of soil ; but in very heavy soils the depth of planting should 
be a little less. 
In the case of the glorious but somewhat uncertain Daffodil ' Maxi- 
mus ' I find deep planting answers best. I get more and finer flow^ers 
now than when I used to plant it at the usual depth. 
Plant your bulbs, if possible, when the soil is nicely damp (not wet), 
and in planting be careful to settle the base of the bulb firmly in the 
soil, so that no air space is left under it. As my garden is inclined to be 
wet I generally, when bulbs are planted in fairly strong soil, put a little 
coarse silver sand both under and over the choicer kinds, and I do sa 
with delicate kinds, even in the lighter soil. This proves very beneficial 
in wet seasons, and I have not noticed any disadvantage from it even 
in the driest season. There are, I know, some authorities who discourage 
this practice ; but circumstances of soil alter cases, and experience only 
can teach what is most suitable in each case. 
After planting the bulbs should in general be left undisturbed for 
two seasons. Varieties which increase slowly may, if they seem quite 
happy, be left for three years ; and, on the other hand, delicate sorts 
which look as if they were not doing well may, with advantage, be lifted 
year by year. But I think that in some cases one hears of the constitu- 
tion even of strong varieties has been injured by too frequent lifting and 
too greedy subdivision of the bulbs. 
As to Nourishment. — Narcissus growers have had some trouble and 
differences of opinion in deciding how they may best supply their bulbs 
with the necessary nourishment. One rule now seems to be pretty 
generally admitted. No stable manure should be dug into the ground for 
some considerable time before planting. Even the most vigorous 
varieties do not like such manure to be in contact with their bulbs and 
roots. There is, however, an exception. The stronger kinds may be 
planted with advantage in ground from which early Potatos (or such 
like crops) have been taken, for in this case the rawness and much of 
the strength of the manure have departed before the bulbs have any- 
thing to do with it. I find no better plan for the renovation of my 
Narcissus beds than to dig in a plentiful supply of well rotted turfy soil 
(when such is obtainable), particularly that of a dark yellow or red- 
brown colour, with iron in it, after having taken out an equivalent of 
the old soil, and " stick-ashes " are very valuable thoroughly mixed with 
the soil before planting. When it is necessary to apply manure, basic 
slag and crushed bones seem to be tlie most reliable. These in the- 
