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JOUKNAL OF THE EOYAL HORTICULTUEAL SOCIETY. 
the season as possible, when a sufficient number were open at the same 
time to secure a crop. 
Soon after the fruit began to swell they were placed on pieces of slate, 
or inverted flower-pots, to keep them off the damp earth, and to expose 
them to as much light and air as possible. The cultivation after this 
consisted chiefly in watering the beds, giving air to the pits or frames, and 
keeping the temperature as near 70° as possible at all times, allowing a 
rise of 10° or 15° with sun-heat during bright weather, syringing the 
plants with tepid water early in the afternoon, and closing the lights 
immediately after to secure as much sun-heat as possible. As the fruits 
advanced towards maturity less water was given to the plants, and in 
some cases it was withheld altogether. This was done with the idea that 
drying off the plants would impart flavour to the fruits. One can 
scarcely credit intelligent men practising a system so repugnant to nature. 
I think no one ever dries off the plants now to impart flavour to the 
fruits. On the contrary, they try if possible to keep the foliage good, and 
the plants clean and healthy to the last. 
The above are some of my recollections of the hot-bed system in 
growing Melons fifty years ago. 
Melons are now generally grown in houses — span-roofed or lean-to— 
and the plants trained on trellises near the glass. Of the two structures 
I prefer a span-roofed house of the following dimensions to any other for 
growing Melons. Width from out to out, 12 ft. ; height, 11 ft.; width 
of inside borders round the sides, 2 ft. 6 in. ; depth, 1 ft. 3 in. ; with 
chambers underneath covered with slate slabs, and two rows of 4-inch 
hot-water pipes in them for bottom heat, and two rows of 4-inch pipes 
on either side of the path for atmospheric heat. This will be sufficient 
piping to maintain a temperature of 70 deg. in all states of the weather. 
The outside walls 9-inch brickwork, and 4 ft. 6 in. above the ground 
level. The retaining walls of the inside borders single brick on the flat 
(4-inch work) 2 ft. 9 in. above the level of the floor, finished with a 
coping of cement or thick slate. The doors at either end of the house 
3 ft. 8 in. wide and 6 ft. 4 in. high, to allow free access when filling the 
borders with soil, or when emptying them. The roof to be trellised with 
strong galvanized wire 9 in. apart and 16 in. from the glass, and the 
structure ventilated from end to end, at the ridge, by simultaneous 
opening gear. The house may be made to any length, according to 
requirements, and supplied with water tanks according to its size. 
There should be no difficulty in growing Melons in a house of this 
description if the cultural details are properly attended to. But Melons 
can be grown well in large houses containing a miscellaneous collection 
of stone plants. There are several large span-roofed houses in the 
gardens under my charge where I grow Melons, Cucumbers, pot Vines, 
and a collection of plants together, and I have no hesitation in saying 
that they are all fairly well grown. But I do not recommend growing 
Melons with other plants when it can be avoided. 
With respect to the aspect these houses should occupy, there is much 
difference of opinion. Most writers, however, recommend that span- 
roofed houses should run north and south, while others contend that 
they should run east and west. I have several span-roofed houses where 
