COMMON MISTAKES IN FRUIT CULTURE. 
319 
Peaches and Nectarines frequently give up from want of moisture. In 
these cases a soil-tester, or the removal of the surface soil, will indicate 
the cause of failure. 
Another source of trouble is from an exactly opposite cause. In wall 
trees it will sometimes occur that a border is lower on one side of the 
wall than on the other, and the consequent soakage keeps the roots of 
the trees in the lower position always in a damp condition, and renders 
lifting necessary. An ill-drained inside Vine or Peach border is also to 
be avoided. 
I have seen failures — bud-dropping and yellow foliage— from the 
practice of growing Chrysanthemums in Peach houses. The frequent 
watering and the strong stimulants given to the flowers are very hurtful 
to the fibrous and tender surface roots of the fruit trees, which should be 
safeguarded. The same system of placing pot plants on Vine borders is 
also to be avoided where possible. 
In olden times it was the custom to take all fruit trees away from the 
walls, after pruning them in winter, gathering them carefully on to large 
poles, placed in convenient positions, dressing the walls thoroughly with 
some insecticide, and then painting the trees entirely over with a like solu- 
tion — generally a mixture of sulphur, lime, soot, soft soap, or any strong 
insecticide. They were then replaced with care, and naturally, where 
such attention was given, there was an absence of aphides and other like 
troubles. I remember once seeing an Elruge Nectarine (outside) so 
treated that carried 70 dozen fine fruits. I fear now the general routine of 
the garden, tennis lawn, &c., forbids this work being carried out regularly. 
A long chapter could be written on pruning mistakes alone, but for 
our purpose it will suffice if we lay down a general rule, that Espalier 
Apples, Pears, and Plums on walls, cordons, &c., should not be pruned 
back before the first week in August. An earlier cutting only induces a 
second growth and keeps the sap in action when it should be resting, and 
trees "stopped" early in August have ample time to plump their buds 
before winter. Doubtless earlier pruning is carried out in many cases 
for the sake of neatness. Over-pruned trees can be made fertile by 
thinning the boughs and allowing them to extend for two years. 
In the case of Peaches and Nectarines another rule is necessary. As 
soon as the shoots have made six or eight leaves the trees should be gone 
over, and thumb and finger stopping be given to the foreright shoots, and 
at the same time the " wild wood " (the extra strong shoots which often form 
in the central part of the trees) should be cut out entirely, or tlie balance 
of the trees will be destroyed. This hand work is far better than that of 
the knife. Any further pruning necessary should be done in February or 
March. 
Boot Pruning. — As a rule this is done too late in the season. It 
should be carried out as soon as ever the fruit is gathered, and hejore (he 
leaves fall, as some new rootlets are then formed before Christmas, and 
a crop may be secured the first year. When done too late the trees may 
die, or at best go to sleep and form scarcely any leaves or roots for one 
or two seasons. The greater the care given to this process, the better the 
results are, and should a dry time follow the operation a good overhead 
syringing is necessary, as well as a liberal mulching. 
