VISIT TO THE AGHA. 99 



pay a visit of ceremony to the Agha, previous to 

 our proposed journey to Erness. Pagniotti and 

 our surigees were anxious that we should make 

 as favourable an impression as possible on his 

 Lordship ; and, though the distance was but a 

 quarter of a mile, had, much to our amusement, 

 smartened up our sorry chargers for an eques- 

 trian procession. Our nags seemed to enter into 

 the spirit of the ceremony, and made some wo- 

 ful attempts at prancing, which the Greeks en- 

 couraged by sundry applications of the whip. 

 We dismounted in the court of the konak, 

 ruinously dilapidated, telling of a sad change 

 of fortune since the days of Dere Beys. We 

 ascended a crazy staircase to a long gallery, 

 ornamented with painting and carving, now faded 

 and defaced. On the landing we were received 

 by a train of servants and retainers, whose dresses 

 were in unison with the decayed aspect of all 

 around. 



We found the Agha surrounded by his officers 

 and the elders of the village, in a small and 

 warm inner apartment, so dark, that, coming in 

 from the bright sunshine, it was some time be- 

 fore we could distinguish anybody, and we had 

 to grope our way, with outspread arms, to some 



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