118 GELAMON. 



to find were now all at an end, and his skill as 

 a cook had been put to the test, in preparing a 

 savoury dish of stewed fowls, more welcome than 

 a new site to famished travellers. 



March 19th. — Another delightful morning. 

 Cattle straying to the river, flocks of sheep and 

 lambs hieing from their pens to pasture, with 

 the plough at work before our door, — animating 

 scenes of pastoral life which we witnessed each 

 morning as we quitted our domicile soon after 

 sunrise, to perform our ablutions at the adjoining 

 stream. We mounted our saddles at an early 

 hour, on our way to visit the ruins of Ghiour- 

 istanlik, " infidel-ruin/' a name of very common 

 application to an ancient ruin or town, when the 

 locality has no other. Our route of to-day is 

 the same as that we travelled over yesterday, as 

 far as the plains of Tcheller, — a tough pull 

 of an hour and a half up the steep face of a 

 rugged mountain. Arriving at the summit, we 

 crossed a small plain more to the north-east, on 

 which is a small village, consisting of a few stone- 

 built houses called Gelamon. A mile beyond, 

 we passed a small Hellenic ruin, standing on a 

 rugged tract separating the plain of Gelamon 

 from another smaller one. Near this, at the 



