110 JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



be found or made by cutting out old enfeebled parts ; but always remember 

 that the pruning should be so done that the hand can be passed through 

 all parts of the bush without touching the thorns. 



NOTES ON ROOT-PRUNING. 



Root-pruning, it must always be remembered, is not to be regarded 

 as one of the ordinary routine operations of gardening, but should be 

 looked upon entirely as a surgical operation, in a case of need. Given 

 transplanted trees, on proper stocks, it is an exception for the roots 

 to want pruning at all ; and never can it be necessary to repeat the 

 operation, save possibly in a very strong land and after an interval of 

 many years. 



When, however, a fruit tree grows so rapidly that the proper balance 

 between the roots and the growth of the tree is not maintained, the tree 

 ceases, under such conditions, to form its due proportion of fruit buds, and 

 the period has arrived when root-pruning will be beneficial. The proper 

 time to perform this operation is in October, immediately after the fruit 

 has been gathered. First dig a trench on one side of the tree, or half 

 round it, 3 feet from the main stem, and of sufficient depth to intercept 

 the coarse-growing side roots, which should be shortened with a sharp 

 knife, taking care to cut from the under side upwards. Then at a depth 

 of 18 inches or 2 feet gradually work Under the centre of the tree, and 

 remove any tap-roots which strike downwards. If the surface fibres are 

 fairly numerous, the trench can be continued right round the tree ; but if 

 the fibres are few, and the tap-roots have been cut, it will be as well to 

 leave the opposite side of the tree to be done the next year ; more especially 

 is this advisable with large pyramids, espaliers, or wall trees, which it 

 would be dangerous to root-prune entirely at one operation. Fill up the 

 trench carefully and evenly, laying out the roots and fibres laterally, with 

 only a slight dip downwards at their ends. Very large trees should have 

 their boughs reduced, and the shoots pruned-in before root-pruning is 

 done ; and in all cases a slight mulching of good rotten dung on the 

 surface in April will stimulate new root action. 



Standard trees should never be root-pruned, but manure should be 

 withheld from those growing too rapidly, in order to induce them to form 

 fruit buds. 



Peaches, Nectarines, and Plums form a mass of fibrous roots, and 

 if the operation be carefully done before the leaves fall, they may be 

 entirely lifted, have their coarse roots shortened or altogether removed, 

 and be replanted in their former positions, taking care to introduce some 

 fresh loam. After replanting, give one good watering, which will settle 

 the trees, and they will at once take to the new soil and form rootlets, 

 before the winter sets in. With all stone fruits some slaked lime should 

 be mixed in the soil. 



Figs frequently grow too rapidly to ripen their wood, and thus fail to 

 produce a crop. In this case they should be severely root-pruned, and 

 the trenches refilled with mortar rubbish, brickbats, or porous stones. 

 This will have the desired effect, if combined with thinning out the small 

 weakly shoots. 



