282 JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



All lateral shoots should be nipped off. At the end of August the plants 

 are tied to a support, the top is pinched oft', and six lateral buds allowed 

 to develop. Keep in a cool house, giving plenty of liquid manure. In 

 September pinch the tips of the branches and tie them also to supports. 

 In winter avoid extremes of heat and cold, and attend daily to the plants 

 in all the above particulars, keeping a look-out for the tiny green cater- 

 pillars with which they are often infested. The plants will flower from 

 February to May. The finest should be preserved for seed, and it is well 

 to strip off ail but the best seed-pods, which then come to full maturity. 



F. A. W. 



Trematovoloa Matruehoti parasitic on Limes. By H. Martinet 

 {Le Javelin, vol. xx. No. 461, p. 131 ; May 5, 1906). — A parasitic fungus that 

 is ravaging the lime forests of Wallachia. It first produces longitudinal 

 slits like button-holes on the trunks and larger branches, and eventually 

 causes neurosis of the entire tissue. It lodges in any accidental creek or 

 wound and then scoops out a large circular cavity. M. Nicolas Jacobexo 

 has been studying the disease for two years, but has not yet succeeded in 

 finding a remedy. — F. A. W. 



Tulipa Fosteriana. By W. I. (Gard. Chron. No. 1010, p. 322; 

 fig. 130 ; May 26, 1906). — A very fine species recently introduced from 

 Bokhara by Mr. C. G. van Tubergen. The flowers are very large, of a 

 bright crimson colour, with a darker blotch at the base of the segments. 

 It is of robust habit, and will probably become a favourite. — G. S. S. 



Wall Gardening-. By W. G. Howarth {Garden, No. 1790, p. 141 ; 

 March 10, 1906). — The kind of wall that is best suited for wall plants is that 

 known as the " dry wall," by which is meant a wall made of rough stones 

 without mortar, and built against a backing of good soil. Such a wall is 

 usually constructed at some place in the garden where a sudden change 

 of level occurs, and may with great advantage take the place of some 

 rough, sloping bank. I have constructed such a wall, and the method 

 of procedure was as foUows : The line for the wall is marked out 

 half a foot or so from the bank, and a trench taken out to the depth of 

 six inches. In this trench the first course of stones is placed along the 

 whole length ; these should be fairly large, oblong, with a broad, flat base 

 and fairly flat upper surface for the reception of the second course. The 

 stones in the course touch each other, but no mortar is used in the joints. 

 In laying a course it is well to use a trowel for roughly shaping the stones 

 as they come to hand, and, in place of the bricklayer's pile of mortar, to 

 have a pile of soil at hand with which, as far as possible, the joints are 

 filled.— iJ. T. C. 



Wardian Cases. By C. T. Druery {Garden, No. 1782, p. 32; 

 January 13, 1906). — The plants most suitable for Wardian case-culture in 

 rooms are comparatively few, and embrace practically no flowering plants 

 at all, but only mosses and ferns, or, if they be kept very dry and given 

 plenty of air and sun, cacti may be grown instead with pretty though 

 curious effect. The only benefit, however, which cacti derive from case 

 culture is some protection from dust, since they are naturally inhabitants 



