MANAGEMENT OF FRUIT TREES, far. 213 



following Spring. About the beginning of April, when I faw 

 the buds begin to fhoot, I cut the fhoots near to the buds* 

 but finding many where the bark had not united, and fome of 

 the eyes apparently dead, I took a fharp pen-knife and cut 

 out all the decayed bark, rubbing in the Competition, in the 

 liquid flate, till the hollow parts were filled up; I then 

 fmoothed it off, with the finger, even with the bark of the 

 Hock. I alfo rubbed fome of the Compofition over thee eyes 

 that were in the word ftate, being quite black ; but with very 

 little hope of recovery. To my great aitoniinment, many of 

 thofe which feemed perfectly dead, recover d, and by the 

 middle of July had fhoots from five to fix feet long (many 

 of the ihoots which took well have fruit buds formed for next 

 year), and covered a fpace of wall larger than a young tree 

 would have done in eight years ; all the cavities where I cut 

 out the dead bark, and applied the Compofition, were, in the 

 courfe of the Summer, filled up with found wood, and the 

 bark between, the flocks and grafts perfectly united. 



Three years ago I budded on fome Brown Beurres and 

 Crafanes with Pear d'Auch, one of which now covers a wall 

 fixteen feet high,. and fifteen feet long, and has more fruit on. 

 it this year than a maiden tree would have produced twenty 

 years after planting. 



I never recommend budding or grafting of old trees, 

 except when you have bad forts, or more of any fort than you 

 want for a fupply : in that cafe, I would recommend to bud 

 or graft with Pear d'Auch, Colmars, and Winter Bonohretiens, , 

 which keep much longer than Beurres, Crafanes, &c. 



It will be necefTary to give fome directions for ftandards that 

 nave been grafted in the Spring, and have milled. In fuch 

 cafe, . they fhould be cut below the graft, as directed for wall- 

 trees ; . 



