96 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



from the ruined buildings of an aboriginal town. 

 We passed under an imposing gateway, and, en- 

 tering the village, stopped at the first house for a 

 draught of water, where, looking back, we saw the 

 shades of night gathering over the sierra, a token of 

 our narrow escape. There were ruined mounds in 

 the neighbourhood, which I intended to look at in 

 passing, but we had still four leagues to make, and 

 pushed on. The road was straight and level, but 

 stony, and very soon it became so dark that we 

 could see nothing. My horse had done a hard 

 day's work, and stumbled so that I could scarcely 

 keep him from falling. We roused the barking dogs 

 of two villages, of which, however, I could distin- 

 guish nothing but the outline of their gigantic 

 churches, and at nine o'clock rode into the plaza of 

 Ticul. It was crowded with Indians, blazing with 

 lights, and occupied by a great circular scaffold for 

 a bull-ring, and a long, enclosed arbour, from the 

 latter of which strains of music gave notice that 

 the bayle de las Mestizas had already begun. 



Once more I received a cordial welcome from 

 the cura Carillo ; but the music from the arbour re- 

 minded me that the moments of pleasure were fleet- 

 ing. Our trunks had been ordered over from Noh- 

 cacab, and, making a hurried toilet, I hastened to 

 the ball-room, accompanied by the padre Brizena; 

 the crowd outside opened a way, Don Philippe Peon 

 beckoned to me as I entered, and in a moment 

 more I was seated in one of the best places at 



