110 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



ing men I saw in the country, or anywhere else, ex- 

 cept, perhaps, the hbellous representatives of the 

 twelve apostles in the feet- washing scene, at which 

 I was once a spectator in Jerusalem. They were 

 of a mixed blood, which makes, perhaps, the worst 

 race known, viz., the cross of the Indian and Afri- 

 can, and called Pardos. Their complexion is a 

 black tinge laid upon copper, and, not satisfied with 

 the bountiful share of ugliness which nature had 

 given them, these worthies had done something for 

 themselves in the way of costume, which was a vile 

 caricature of the common European dress, with some 

 touches of their own elegant fancy. Altogether, I 

 could imagine that they had fitted themselves out 

 with the unclaimed wardrobe of deceased hospital 

 patients. Their horses, being borrowed by the com- 

 mittee of arrangements, with the understanding that 

 if killed they were to be paid for, were spavined, 

 foundered, one-eyed, wretched beasts. They had 

 saddles covered with scarlet cloths, enormous spurs, 

 with rowels six inches long, and murderous spears, 

 discoloured with old stains of blood. The combina- 

 tion of coloun, particularly the scarlet, was intended 

 to frighten the bull, and all together they were al- 

 most enough to frighten el demonio. 



The races over, the amateur vaqueros led in the 

 first bull, having two real vaqueros at hand for cases 

 of emergency. The toreadores charged upon him 

 with spears brandished, and presenting a vivid pic- 

 ture of the infernals let loose; after which they dis- 



