8 



Aspect. — The land should have a very gradual slope, and face to- 

 wards the northeast to give the best results. Good drainage will 

 be obtained; the direct ra3^s of the sun during the growing season 

 are avoided and in spring there is roore gradual thaw, a condition 

 that is very desirable, for it is the sudden changes that affect plants 

 most. Other slopes may be used of course, but protection from 

 wind and from the sun must be provided for. As watering will often 

 be necessary, a stream or a spring should be close at hand. 



Soil. — The soil should be, preferably, a sandy loam of moderate 

 moisture — neither too wet nor too dry. Heavy soil should be avoid- 

 ed. Whatever land is used, ought to be worked up thoroughly, to a 

 depth of at least feet, in the fall and again in the spring. More 

 especially should this be done on new land or on land that has not 

 been worked for a long time. The top soil should be well and evenly 

 fertilized. The more thoroughly the working is done the more 

 oxygen for plant life there will be in the soil. The moisture will be 

 better maintained. If the fertilizing is properly done, instead of 

 raising seedlings with long, straggling roots, which cause more or 

 less difficulty in transplanting, there will be produced strong plants 

 with a compact system of root fibres, which is a better result for 

 many reasons. 



Beds. — The size of the nursery must be left entirely to the planter 

 himself, but it may be a safe estimate to allow sixteen square feet of 

 bed for every three hundred broad-leaved seedlings and for every six 

 hundred conifers expected from a medium thickness of broadcast 

 sowing. 



If transplanting is to be done, fifteen to thirty square feet may be 

 allowed for every one hundred conifers and thirt}^ to sixty square 

 feet for every one hundred broad-leaved seedlings. To prepare the beds 

 stake out the paths or walks at right angles to each other. Shovel 

 about six inches of soil from these and throw it on top of what will 

 be the beds. These may be kept in better shape, then, if boards are 

 placed around the sides, otherwise after each rain more or less soil 

 is washed into the v/alks, often exposing the roots, or washing out 

 entirely the plants along the edges. Long beds should be about four 

 feet across so as to be worked easily from each side. Of course these 

 are a saving in ground-space, but if there is much danger of damage 

 from mice it is best to have small beds about five feet square. Or a 

 ditch with perpendicular walls around the entire nursery will make 

 it mouse-proof. For taprooted species of trees, such as oak, walnut, 

 hickory, ash, etc., special beds might be made, so as to prevent the 

 forming of long taproots,, by placing on about a level with the w^alks 

 a layer of boards or a very close layer of stones under the beds. 



'Moisture.— Moisture is one of the most necessary conditions of 

 plant life, consequently the needs of the nursery in this direction 



