THE CHANK BANGLE INDUSTRY. 
433 
The trade at the present time enjoys marked prosperity and the individual worker 
earns high wages according to Indian standards. It is a poor workman who cannot 
earn one rupee per day ; remuneration is by piecework, and as the workers are trained 
to this trade from the earliest age they can rub a shell-circle upon a grindstone, few 
are not expert workmen by the age of 20. Even boys of 7 and 8 years old are able to 
earn 4 annas a day at rough filing. Skilled hands earn from Re. 1 to Re. 1-8 per day, 
and those capable of carving elaborate patterns command considerably higher rates. 
The appearence and conduct of the men generally give the impression of superior 
intelligence ; I found them quick to catch my meaning when engaged in cross-examin- 
ing them upon the details of their trade, and they showed the utmost courtesy and 
patience in their efforts to render matters plain to me. 
(d) The Trade Varieties of Shells Employed. 
Chanks from different localities have distinguishing characteristics well known 
to the Calcutta and Dacca dealers ; they constitute in fact a considerable number 
of local races differing little in appearance to the casual eye, but readily distinguished 
by these shell experts who are able to say at a glance whence any particular shell has 
come. As a consequence of these local varieties having differing physical characters, 
their price varies and the shells from each locality are kept and sold separate during 
the first series of wholesale transactions. Among the wholesalers at least eleven 
varieties and qualities are recognized. They may be summarized as under : — 
1. Tuttikutti . — Shells obtained from the Madras Government fishery off the 
coast of Tinnevelly. These form the finest and most valued quality, from which the 
choicest bracelets are manufactured. They are marked by a well-balanced and elegant 
form, neither squat (as in the Negapatam or Tanjore type) nor greatly elongate (sub- 
fusiform) as in shells from the Andamans. The regular and gradual increase in the 
size of the whorls enables this form of shell to be cut to greatest advantage, and 
gives a maximum number of large sections. The shell is of a perfect opalescent white- 
ness and of great hardness and evenness of texture, qualities which render it suscep- 
tible of a high polish. 
In seasons previous to 1909-10, when the Calcutta buying combine were able to 
buy these shells practically at their own price, they were disposed of wholesale by 
these men at from Rs. 35 to Rs. 38 per bag of 250 shells, or Rs. 140 to Rs. 152 per 
1000, on credit terms. 
2. Ramessari . — These are the shells fished off Kilakarai and the island of 
Rameswaram under licence from the Ramnad zamindari. The quality approaches 
that of Tuticorin very closely but is esteemed slightly inferior, and fetches about 
Re. 1 to Rs. 2 less per 100, not so much in respect of the qualit}^ of the individual shell 
as because of the larger number of smaller grade shells present , due to lack of fishery 
regulations designed to safeguard the immature. Good selections, however, will at 
times fetch prices equal to those of Tuticorin shells, and by one of the tricks of the trade, 
these shells appear to be lumped frequently with Tuticorin shells as of equal quality 
in sales made to the bracelet-cutters in outlying villages, as these men appear not to 
