THE CHANK BANGLE INDUSTRY. 
441 
vermilion that is required, a quantity of the purplish-red crystals of hingol (cinnabar) 
are obtained. This is ground down to a fine powder upon a disc-shaped stone of fine- 
grained granite or gneiss by means of a pestle consisting of a short stumpy pebble, 
roughly conical in shape (pi. xiv, fig. io). One tola weight of hingol to three 
tolas’ weight of shellac is the proportion employed. When the pigment has been 
sufficiently reduced, two- thirds of the total amount of shellac requisite is first fashioned 
by heat into the form of a small cup within which the powdered hingol is placed, the 
remaining third of shellac being warmed to pliability and then used to close the aper- 
ture of the cup. The next stage is to thoroughly amalgamate the contained powder 
with the lac walls of the cup, a process calling forth a great amount of dexterity. The 
whole mass is deftly rotated over a charcoal fire till soft and pliable and then kneaded 
thoroughly for a considerable time by the help of two short sticks of the size and length 
of lead pencils. The softened mass is twisted about over the fire and repeatedly 
‘ ‘ wound ’ ’ from the end of one stick to that of the other and back again, the opera- 
tion being repeated till incorporation be complete. The mass is then formed into a 
pencil-shaped stick and is ready for use. 
In the lacquering of a bangle a short segment of the circle is heated over a small 
charcoal fire made in the cavity of a wide shallow chatty, a portion of the bangle 
being laid directly upon the glowing lumps of charcoal. As soon as hot enough, the 
workman removes the bangle and rubs the warmed portion with the end of the thin 
stick of lac. A small length only is covered at each application as the bangle soon 
becomes too cool to melt the lac sufficiently ; it is replaced upon the coals and then a 
fresh segment is covered and so on till the whole circumference has been worked over. 
In incised patterns required to stand out red upon a white ground, this effect is 
obtained by scraping over the surface with a small tool shaped like a bradawl. 
(/) Economic Position of the Trade. 
At the present time the industry enjoys considerable prosperity. The demand 
for bangles suitable for low-caste Hindu women and for the hill tribes is a stable one, 
influenced by no fluctuations of fashion and dependent only upon the general well-being 
of the province. When food supplies are abundant and at a normal level, and work 
readily procurable, women of the labouring classes are able to indulge their fancy in 
bangles ; their tastes are conservative, and a good demand in consequence is experi- 
enced for arm ornaments made from the chank shell. The Swadeshi movement has 
assisted this industry materially, particularly among the more well-to-do castes, and 
during the height of the agitation the demand for more highly ornamented chank 
bangles increased markedly and gave a much-needed impetus to the manufacture of 
bangles of the more elaborate patterns. This factor now exercises less influence on 
the trade, its place being taken by the more healthy influence for good exercised by 
the advertisement of the best productions of Dacca at the provincial exhibitions held 
from time to time during late years. Several of the leading Dacca manufacturers 
occasionally stage exhibits, sometimes even sending workmen to demonstrate the 
methods employed. These exhibitors have had the enterprise to make up a number 
