442 
J. HORNELL ON 
of chank-shell ornaments in semi-European style — flower pattern bangles, long chains, 
brooches, buttons and even small figures of gods ; for these there appears to have been 
a remunerative demand capable of considerable extension as the manufacturers and 
dealers become more enterprising. An excellent advertising move would be for them 
to arrange with the dealers in Indian artwares at the great cities most visited by tourists 
to stock a quantity of the best and most ornamental chank productions turned out 
by their workshops ; both because of the intrinsic beauty of many of these articles 
and of the interest attaching to their origin and to the custom prescribing their use 
among a great section of Indian tribes and castes, such articles should find many 
purchasers among European and American ladies. 
As offset to these favourable factors is the tendency among the women of the 
better classes to discontinue as far as possible the use of chank bangles in order to 
emphasize their disassociation from low-caste customs ; and in the endeavour to be 
more ‘ ‘ fashionable ’ ’ in the style of their personal ornaments, they wish where 
possible to procure gold bracelets, and where their means will not allow they too often 
prefer to wear gaudy glass bangles of European make. 
In Dacca and Calcutta labour in the less skilled branches of the industry is abun- 
dant and wages are low in consequence. Highly skilled men can, however, command 
good pay, and were they of a provident disposition they should be very well-off. 
At the small centres located in country districts, living and conditions of 
labour are greatly superior to those prevailing in the large towns. There is a fairly 
regular and stable local demand to rely upon, the necessaries of life are cheaper, and 
temptations to waste earnings in outbursts of self-indulgence are few ; the open sur- 
roundings also conduce to a healthier tone both of mind and body than do the slums 
of Dacca. Best of all, in many places the bangle- maker has some agricultural occupa- 
tion to afford other interests in life, to give a healthful change from the monotony 
of a sedentary occupation and a means whereby his savings may be put to remunera- 
tive account. In one district I found the local Sankharis engaged in tobacco cultiva- 
tion as a secondary occupation. Elsewhere I found many of these bangle-cutters 
cultivating plots of paddy or of jute in the season. The relative importance of the 
two callings varies considerably as is natural, but they are largely complemental, as 
there are so many intervals in small cultivation after the crop has been sown when the 
fields require almost no attention, that a Sankharihas no difficulty in carrying on both 
satisfactorily. Under these circumstances, these men are quietly prosperous ; they 
earn good wages from their chank trade, their fields supply almost all their food, and 
their houses, fairly roomy and well built and fairly well ventilated, are made of grass, 
thatch walls as well as roof, the supports and rafters of bamboos which grow luxuri- 
antly everywhere around. Many families are reputed to possess good savings in cash, 
the money being buried as is still the usual habit of country people of this class in 
Bengal. 
(g) The Castes and Tribes who use Chank Bangles. 
Although evidence is strong in favour of the belief that the custom of wearing 
chank bracelets was in old times prevalent throughout the length and breadth of 
