T. H. NELSON: A RAMBLE ON THE FARNE ISLANDS. II7 



the North and South Wawmses, Big Harcar, Clove Car, and Browns- 

 man. A mile and a half to the south-east of the Staples lies the 

 Crumstone, the breeding resort of numerous Seals; and, at an equal 

 distance to the north-west is the Megstone, a barren rock sacred to 

 the Cormorants. The Outer Fame or Longstone, the most northerly 

 of the group, is five miles from the shore. It was here that the 

 Darling family lived ; and from here the heroine Grace and her father 

 ventured forth across the stormy waters to the rescue of the pas-, 

 sengers and crew of the ill-fated ' Forfarshire.' It is only by visiting 

 the scene of the wreck, and witnessing the angry seas raging round 

 the islands, that one can form any idea of what a truly dangerous 

 adventure old Darling and his daughter embarked upon on that 

 stormy morning in September 1838. Since then the old lighthouse 

 has been pulled down, and on its site is now erected a more modern 

 structure, with all necessary appliances for lighting and warning 

 vessels from these dangerous rocks. 



The flash of the light on the Outer Farne reminding us that it 

 was time to turn in, we repaired to our quarters at the inn, disturbing 

 swarms of rabbits in crossing the links below the Castle. 



Next morning we drove along to North Sunderland, three miles 

 to the south-east of Bamburgh, where we found our boatman awaiting 

 us on the quay by the little harbour. North Sunderland is a small 

 fishing village, where, in the herring season, a considerable trade is 

 carried on, the preparations for which we saw were already com- 

 mencing. ' An ancient and fish-like smell ' pervades the place, not 

 of an agreeable character to nostrils unaccustomed to such odours. 

 One of my companions remarked to the boatman that the stench 

 was very offensive, and was met by the reply — ' Oh, it's just a fine 

 healthy smell ! ' On that point we agreed to differ ; however, we 

 were soon seated in our coble, the ' Lindisfarne,' a large roomy 

 craft, partly decked for'ard, and, after piloting our way amongst the 

 boats in the harbour, soon found ourselves in the open sea, scudding 

 before a fair wind in the direction of the islands. Our crew con- 

 sisted of three, all told : Cuthbertson ; an old salt, whose name I 

 forget ; and William Darling, Grace's nephew. 



Very few birds were observed till we passed the Inner Farne, 

 and then a few Guillemots {Lotnvia troile) and Pufiins {Fracfercula 

 arcticd) showed themselves, dotted about on the water; opposite 

 the Wide-opens a flock of noisy, screaming Terns {Sterna macnira 

 and S. cantiaca) were hovering about like so many large butterflies, 

 busily engaged amongst the herring-soil near the surface ; and on the 

 nearest islands we saw Lesser Blackbacked and Herring Gulls {Larus 

 fuscus and Z. argentaius). As we crossed the channel between the 



April 1887. 



