8 



Ykari.ixo Tree- intended for Pyramids. — Some of these ma y have a few side brandies, 

 the smallest of which should be cut clean away, reserving only the strongest and best 

 placed. In other respects they will be pruned as directed for trees of two years' growth. 



Those having no side branches should be cut back so far as to insure the production of 

 a tier of branches within six inches or less of the. ground. j\ strong yearling, four to six 

 feet, may be cut bock about half, and weaker ones more than that. It is better to cut loo 

 low than not low enough, for if the first tier of branches be not low enough, the pyra- 

 midal form cannot afterwards be perfected. 



lid. PLANTING. — Dig holes in the first place, large enough to admit the roots of the tree 

 to spread out in their natural position. Then, having the tree pruned as above directed, 

 let one person hold it in an upright position, and the other shovel in the earth, carefully 

 putting the finest and the best from the surface in among the roots, filling every inter-tie. ■. 

 and bringing every root in contact with the soil. When the earth is nearly tilled in, a 

 pail of water may be thrown on to settle and wash in the earth around the roots; then 

 fill in the remainder, and tread gently with the foot. The use of water is seldom neces- 

 sary, except in dry weather, early in fall or late in spring. Guard against planting too 

 tlrcp ; the trees, after the ground settles, should stand in this respect as they did in the 

 Nursery. Trees on dwarf stocks should stand so that all t/u: stork be under the ground, 

 and no more. In very dry, gravelly ground, the holes should be dug twice the usual size 

 and depth, and filled in with good loamy soil. 



4th, STAKING. — If trees are tall and much exposed to winds, a stake should be 

 planted with the tree, to which it should be tied in such a manner as to avoid chafing. 

 A piece of matting or cloth may be put between the tree and the stake. 



nth. Ml'LCHINl!, — When the tree is planted, throw around it. as far as the roots 

 extend, and a foot beyond, 5 to G inches deep of rough manure or litter. This is particu- 

 larly necessary in dry ground, and is highly advantageous everywhere, both in spring 

 and fall planting. It prevents the ground from baking or cracking, and maintain- an 

 equal temperature about (he roots. 



Mb. A FT Kit CI' I/ITUK. — The grass should not be allowed to grow around young 

 trees after being planted, as it stunts their growth and utterly ruins them. The ground 

 should bo kept, clean and loose around them, until at least they are of bearing size. 



TREATMENT OK TRICKS THAT I1AVK KEEN FROZEN IN THE PACKAGES, OR RECK1VKI) DURING 



frosty weather. — Place the packages, unopened, in a cellar or some such place, cool, but 

 free from frost, until perfectly thawed, when they can be unpacked, and either planted or 

 placed in a trench, until convenient to plant. Treated thus, they will not be injured by 

 She freezing. Trees procured in the fall for spring planting, should be laid in trenches in 

 a slanting position to avoid the winds; the situation should also be sheltered and the soil 

 dry. A mulching on the roots and a few evergreen boughs over the tops, will afford 

 good protection. 



DISTANCE BETWEEN TREES IN PLANTATIONS. 



Standard Ai-vi.es, 30 feet apnrt each way. In poor soils, 25 feet maybe enough. 



Standard Pears and Cherries, 20 feet apart each way. (merries will do at 18 feet, 

 and the Dwarf grow ing sorts, Dukes and Morellos, even at. 1G feet. 



Standard Plums, Peaches, Apricots, and Nectarines, 1C to 18 feet apart each way. 



Quinces, 10 to 12 feet apart each way. 



Pyramidal Aiti.i;-, 1'kars, Cherries, and Plums, 10 feet apart each way. The greater 

 distance is better where land is not. scarce. 

 Dwarf Apcles, (bushes,) 6 feet apart. 



