WESTBURY STATION, N, Y, 57 Evergreen Shrubs 
Rhododendron maximum in mass 'planting on the edge of a woodland drive at " Castlegould." The large flower 
is the bloom of Rhododendron Catawbiense. 
RHODODENDRON CULTURE 
Soil. — Loam, or loam well mixed with one-fourth toone-third leaf-mold or well-rotted manure. Soil 
2 feet deep is preferable. Avoid clay, limestone and stagnant moisture, which are rare on Long Island. 
Light.— Partial shade, at least in winter, as on a north slope, north of buildings, or by trees such, 
as Oak and Locust. Avoid Silver Maple and trees that rob. They set most flower-buds in the open. 
_ Culture. - Mulch annually with 10 inches of rotted manure and leaves. This keeps the soil cool, 
moist and unfrozen in winter and provides humus, which the minute rootlets can penetrate. Water thor- 
oughly once a week in a long drought if necessary. Remove seed-pods in July. 
Exposure. — Shelter from drying winter winds by planting in masses and by a windbreak of ever- 
green or deciduous trees, or a temporary winter fence. A good protection from both sun and wind is. 
afforded by evergreen boughs or straw. Well-established hardy varieties may be open to view all 
the year. 
These conditions are favorable to all of the Ericaceae family, as Azalea, Laurel, Trailing Arbutus, 
Andromeda and many other woodland plants, as Ferns, Orchids, Lilies, etc. The chart of soil and 
climate, on pages 6 to 16, shows why Long Island is favorable to the culture of Rhododendron Catazv- 
diense, the hybrids in which it predominates and R. maximum. They are accustomed to 40 degrees 
annual range of temperature between the average of July and January. It shows the reason of the gen- 
eral failure here of Rhododendron Ponticum and similar species and "hybrids from Armenia, the Levant, 
Sikkim and Nepaul, regions having only 20 degrees annual range. The latter thrive in England' 
Holland, France, and are the most easily propagated. The surplus is sent to this country and adorns, 
the sidewalk plant market The first to bloom is worth the price, but for permanent lawn planting 
they lead to disgust with Rhododendrons. An expert can generally separate hardy and tender varieties. 
Some of the points are ; hardy Catawbiense hybrids — leaves oval rounded at each end, glaucous be- 
neath, leaf-stem and bark of twigs yellowish ; tender Ponticum and hybrids— leaves elliptical, generally 
narrower and more pointed than the Catawbiense, pale green beneath, leaf-stem and bark of twigs gen- 
erally green or purplish. 
ACCLIMATINQ 
To acclimate imported plants, get hardy varieties. They are scarce, slowly propagated and sub- 
stitutes often sent. Soak the balls, loosen the surface, plant a little deeper to get the plant to make its 
own roots above the Ponticum stock. Shade and water for the first year. Pick off flower-buds as they 
expand. Our plants have been through this acclimating from two to six years. When imported the 
plants have small balls ; they exhaust themselves by blooming and the roots mr>y not push out of the ball, 
