CATALOGUE OF BULBS. 
29 
foliage may not be hurt, and in a few days removed to a forcing-pit where a mild 
bottom heat can be given to the plunged pots of from 70 ° to 75 ° , and a top heat 
of from 60 ° to 65 ° , Here the plants must be gently shaded until the leaves be- 
come quite green. The pots, though plunged, should be set upon slates, boards 
or anything that will prevent the roots from entering the plunging-medium, wheth- 
er tan, leaves, &c, &c. The extra bottom heat is a great means of success at this 
early period. Until moved from the bed, very little watering will be needed. 
The flower-truss is apt to close, the stem not growing long enough at this early 
period to let the florets expand ; an empty flower-pot placed on the top of the 
other will tend to remedy this ; we prefer, however funnels of paper, say eight 
inches in length, placed over the pot, if after this, the flower-stem should still be 
too dumpy, give a few degrees more top heat for a few days. Whenever the stem 
shows the least sign of being too much drawn, so as to leave an excess of room 
between the individual flowers, gradually lower the temperature in which the 
plants are placed, when the flower stem and leaves are all that could be desired, 
and the flowers are approaching the opening, raise the pots out of the plunging- 
medium, and even keep cooler by more air ; now the bulbs will require a free sup- 
ply of water. After the pots have stood on the surface of the bed for a few clays, 
remove them to the green-house or sitting-room ; manure- waterings and a rich top 
dressing will generally keep them in longer luxuriance. To have blooms in Feb- 
ruary and onwards, little of this extra care is necessary; the chief extra treatment 
required may be the paper funnel. When the pots are brought from the beds or 
the cellar, keep shaded until the leaves get green, and then place them on the 
green-house shelf, or parlor window ; in all cases, healthy rooting must precede 
fine blooming. In the case of those of our readers who have no means of cover- 
ing up their pots in a bed, or even in a cellar in which to place them without cov- 
ering, the bulbs may be grown in any sitting or dining-room in the same way, re- 
quiring only that a damp atmosphere should be kept about them ; and as light is 
not wanted until they are progressing freely ; the bulbs when potted will do well 
in the bottom of a cupboard ; if set in damp moss or anything of that kind, and a 
small portion of the same sprinkled over them ; they dislike at first the dry air of 
a sitting-room ; ii the floor of the cupboard is sprinkled frequently, that will be 
sufficient ; great success depends generally on trifles, and to keep a clamp atmos- 
phere about the bulbs at first is far better than deluging the pots with water. 
CULTURE OF THE HYACINTH IN BEDS. 
The aspect most advantageous must be open, airy, and at the same time well shel- 
tered from northerly and easterly winds. The plants should have the benefit of 
the sunshine during the whole clay, at least until the time of flowering, when they 
will remain in flower much longer if shaded from the noonday sun. 
For a bed of the new and choicer varieties, the bed should be prepared as di- 
rected under the head of Soil ; but for the more common varieties any w r ell drain- 
ed garden soil is easily rendered suitable for the growth of the Hyacinth. If the 
soifis of a strong adhesive nature, add two inches of sharp sand, and as much well de- 
cayed manure, then dig the soil two feet deep with a steel fork, taking care nicely 
to mix the sand manure with the soil as the work proceeds. Friable loamy soil 
will require merely a liberal dressing of manure and deep digging ; and it will be 
found that the Hyacinth will produce equally fine spikes of blossom grown in soil 
prepared thus, as when planted in more extensive compost. 
The season for planting Hyacinths in beds, in the open air, is from September 
onwards. Select a dry day for putting in the bulbs ; and if the same can be cho- 
sen for the preparation of the soil, it will be in much better condition for the 
growth of the plant than if worked when wet. Plant in lines, eight inches by 
ten inches apart, which will afford space between the plants when up, to work a 
hoe for the destruction of weeds and keeping the surface friable, to prevent the 
escape of moisture in dry weather. The crowms of the bulbs should be four 
inches under the surface of the soil ; and lest a severe winter should occur, it ia 
well to cover the bed with a few inches of leaves, straw, or any light substance, 
to exclude frost. This should be removed, however, when the plants begin to 
grow through it. 
