FALL PLANTED-SPRING FLOWERING BULBS 



TTci T 1 PI a rt t\ tl <5 Because Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, 

 ran jrianLiiig etc ^ do not bloom untn Spring _ 



many people forget to order and plant them, until Spring 

 comes and their neighbor's flowers are a belated reminder. All 

 bulbs for blooming indoors during the Winter, or for an out- 

 side show in the Spring, must be planted in the Fall — prefer- 

 ably in October. 



Out-Door Planting ™/ a ^«°S 



the first of January, where the ground remains unfrozen, but, 

 if possible, should be done in October or early November. 



Hyacinths, Tulips and Narcissus should be set, the top 

 of bulb 4 inches beneath the surface; Lilies, 5 inches. Interval 

 in Rows: Hyacinths, 7 inches; Tulips, 5 inches; Narcissus, 12 

 inches' Lilies, 14 inches. 



Soil Any good, thoroughly drained soil will grow bulbs 

 well. If it should be in a heavy clay, it would be best 

 to add sand and well-rotted manure to make it loose. The 

 surface of beds should be slightly raised at center so that 

 water will run off quickly, as bulbs are liable to rot if water 

 remains on them any length of time. 



Winter l*mtf*rtif\ri After the ground is frozen, 



vvnitcA jtiu tectum cover thebeds with 4 to 6 



inches of leaves if they can be had; if not, coarse manure will 

 do nearly as well; if leaves are used, throw over a little brush 

 or earth, to prevent blowing off. In the South, where the 

 ground does not freeze more than a slight crust, they will re- 

 quire no protection. 



Removal of Bulbs after Flowering 



Tulip and Hyacinth bulbs may be, and often are, left 

 undisturbed from year to year, but this course creates a notice- 

 able deterioration in size and quality of bloom. To save dan- 

 ger of rotting during unusually hot weather, attacks of insects, 

 etc., and to conserve the same degree of perfection attained 

 during the blooming season just passed, our advice would be 

 as follows: 



About a month after they are through flowering, or when 

 the tops appear yellow or decayed, they should be taken up 

 and the tops cut off within an inch of the bulbs, but leave the 



roots on, spread them in dry, airy room for ten or twelve 

 days to dry; after which wrap them in paper, or pack them 

 in perfectly dry sand, and store in a dry, cool place until want- 

 ed for planting. If the beds in which they have been blooming 

 are wanted for bedding plants, they may be taken up as soon 

 as they are through flowering and heeled in the ground in 

 some out of the way place with the tops on until they ripen, 

 then treat them the same way as if they had ripened in the bed. 



Treatment of Bulbs in Pots For earl y?°r 



- ers most bulbs 



should be potted in September, and for a succession of flowers, 

 at intervals up to December. A very good soil for the growth 

 of bulbs is composed of one-half decomposed turfy loam, 

 and the remainder equal parts of well -rotted manure and leaf- 

 mold well mixed together. The size of the pots used depends 

 on size of bulbs and effects desired. For a single Hyacinth, a 

 5-inch pot should be used; for Tulips a 4-inch pot would be 

 large enough. Narcissus require about the same size pot as 

 Hyacinths. In potting, fill the pots to the rim with soil, 

 press the bulbs into it until they are covered, then press down 

 the soil around the sides of the pot, give a good watering which 

 will further settle the soil. The pots should now be placed in 

 a cool, dark situation, so as to encourage a strong growth of 

 roots before the bulbs ,start at the top. A very good place is 

 a cool cellar where the pots should be covered with 5 or 6 

 inches of sand; or a trench may be dug in the open ground, 

 and the pots placed in it and covered with 6 or 8 inches of soil; 

 then cover over that with sufficient leaves or coarse manure 

 to keep out frost, so they may be removed when wanted. In 

 six or eight weeks they will have made sufficient root to admit 

 of their being brought to the light. As they begin to grow, 

 water freely, so that the soil is moistened to the bottom of the 

 pots. By bringing in a few at intervals of eight or ten days, 

 a succession of flowers may be had for months. 



Hyacinths in Glasses. Grown in this way Hyacinths are 

 fine ornaments for the sitting room or parlor, and can be grown 

 with very little trouble. Fill glasses with water so that the 

 base of the bulbs will just touch it; set them away in a cool, 

 dark cellar or closet until the roots have reached the bottom 

 of the glass, when they may be brought to the light. 



The large-flowered Dutch Hyacinths are indispensable for 

 Winter forcing; their exquisite coloring and perfume command- 

 ing a degree of popular favor accredited to no other winter 

 flowering, bulb. 



Started in- pots or glasses and kept in the cool dark (see 

 cultural directions above), they remain dormant indefinitely, 

 but yield readily to forcing treatment; so that one may direct 

 a succession of bloom at will, throughout the season. The 

 named varieties as listed, while more expensive than the 

 unnamed sorts, are larger and best adapted to this purpose, 

 and come true to the color description you may select. A 

 predominance of single varieties will prove most satisfactory. 



EXHIBITION HYACINTHS 



(For Pots or Glasses.) 



A selection of choicest exhibition single varieties, in 

 special "Mammoth" sized bulbs. 



Cardinal Wiseman. Rosy pink. 



Charles Dickens. Blush rose. 



Garibaldi. Crimson- red. 



Roi des Beiges. Rosy crimson. 



Grandeur a'Merveille. White shaded rose. 



L'Innocence. Pure white. 



Mr. Plimsoll. Blush white. . / 



King of the Blues. Dark blue. 



Queen of the Blues. Porcelain blue. 



Grand Maitre. Bright blue. 



The set of 10 for $1.85 by mail, or $1.70 by express. 

 Any 5 by mail for 95 cts. 



