LANDRETH PAYS THE POSTAGE. 
5 
COLORED ILLUSTRATIONS AND DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING ON EACH PACKET. 
FLOWER-SEEDS 
Varieties marked ANNUAL, bloom the first season and die. . Postage Free. Prices as indicated. 
Varieties marked BIENNIAL, bioom the second season and die. ^ 
Varieties marked PERENNIAL, last severaS years, blooming each > Notice remarks on each packet as to 
season, except the first. ' depth of covering. 
Select from the following list the varieties you fancy, and with the order remit us the price for each paper 
desired. The money can be sent as a bank=note, a post=office order, or a postal note. 
To make the directions for planting easily understood, we have divided all the varieties of Flower Seeds into SEVEN 
CLASSES, and for planting-time designate certain seasons as indicated by the budding of familiar trees. The following is 
the classification. Upon each packet is printed its CLASS DIRECTIONS for sowing: 
1st Class.— Sow under glass rar/y in Spring (before the Peach 
has started into bloom), and transplant into small pots, to 
be turned out at the proper season ; or sow /a/^er end of 
Spring (when the Oak and other late trees put forth), in a 
sheltered sunny compartment of the garden. Let the beds 
be deeply dug, and raked into the finest tilth, and the seed 
covered noi exceeding; /hire or four times its diameter. 
Thin out and transplant in damp weather to proper posi- 
tions. 
3d Class.— Sow early in Spring (when the Peach comes into 
bloom), or still better in the Autumn immediately after the 
heat of Summer. Let the bed be deeply dug, and raked 
into the finest tilth, and the seed covered not exceeding 
three or four times its diameter. Shelter during Winter 
with straw, or other light material. 
3d Class.— Sow as early in the Spring as the earth will permit 
(usually when the Apple and Cherry are blooming). Let 
the bed be deeply dug, and raked into the finest tilth, and 
the seed covered not exceeding three times its diameter. 
Thin out and transplant in damp weather to proper posi- 
tions. 
4th Class.— Sow latter endi. of Spring (when the Oak and other 
late trees have put forth), in a sheltered compartment of 
the garden. Let the bed be deeply dug, and raked into 
the finest tilth, and the seed covered not exccedins; three 
or four times its diameter. Thin out and transplant in 
damp weather to proper positions. 
5th Class.— Sow latter end of Spring (when the Oak and other 
late trees have put forth), in those positions where it is 
desired the plants should remain. Let the beds be deeply 
dug, and raked into the finest tilth, and the seed covered 
not exceeding three or four times its diameter. 
6th Class.— At latter end of Spring (when the Oak and other 
late trees put forth), soak the seed for ten or fifteen hours 
in tepid water, and sow in those positions where it is 
desired the plant or plants should remain. 
7th Class — Sow in Autumn or early Winter, in the greenhouse 
or conservatory, covering the seed to a depth not exceeding 
once or twice its diameter -better perhaps not cover at all. 
When the plants have reached a suitable size, prick out in 
the usual manner. 
FORCING OR STARTING SEEDS IN THE HOUSE. 
When it is desired to hasten the development of plants, they may be sown in the conservatoiy or in boxes within the house. 
Those who have greenhouses hardly need directions, but for those who have had less experience we drop the following hints : 
Procure shallow boxes, trays, or broad pots from two to four inches deep. The bottoms open for the free passage of water, 
else the earth will bake and become sour. Seeds will not germinate satisfactorily or thrive in a wet soil. 
Prepare a mixture of one-third leaf-mold cut fine, one-third clean sand, and one-third finely pulverized stable manure, 
moisten the mixture thoroughly, and fill into the boxes to within a half-inch of the top— gently patting down the surface to a 
level Upon this distribute the seed, and cover just out of sight, by sifting over the seed the finest dust procurable, settling the 
seed down with a fine spray of water shaken from a brush, a heavier application baking the surface. 
Place the boxes where they will remain at a temperature of between 60° and 70°, applving water with a brush or fine rose 
when the surface becomes dry. 
When the seedlings are half an inch high, they may be transplanted to other boxes, placing the tiny plants about one to 
each square inch. When these become so large as to crowd each other, they should again be transplanted to the garden, or to 
other boxes according to the season. 
OPEN-AIR CULTURE. 
Flower seeds being usually small and delicate, the land to receive them must necessarilv be carefully prepared, otherwise 
the cost of purchase and labor of sowing will be expended in vain. Large stones, clods, and other material out of place, should 
be removed after the earth has been deeply dug and fertihzed ; but the earth should not be made so fine as to become pasty 
under moisture. 
The best results will generally be obtained by the beginner by concentrating the crop, or sowing all the varieties in one plot 
or bed, or a portion of ground whatever its size may be, sufiiciently large to hold all sorts placed in parallel rows at one foot 
apart, and this concentrated plantation can be carefully weeded, and otherwise attended to during the early stages of growth. 
Afterwards, when one or two inches high, the young plants can be removed, on a rainy or cloudy, damp day, to permanent 
positions ; here the earth must be carefully prepared for their reception, being especially enriched by a previous application of 
very short, well-rotted stable-manure or compost. 
In the after culture the most important matter is to keep the clumps well thinned, for crowding will defeat all other prepa- 
rations, while space, which at first seems four times too much, will serve to develop robust plants, which, by their ample leafage 
and well-developed flowers, will amaze people not familiar with the conditions necessary to successful plant culture. 
Landreths' Saddle-Back Wax Bush Bean is superb. 
