l^^ l TREES FOR LONG ISLAND l ^^M 



BROAD-LEAVED EVERGREENS 



CATAW^BIENSE HYBRID RHODODENDRONS, continued 



He further summarizes their cultural requirements: "Rhododendrons love moisture, both at their roots and 

 overhead; and they dislike excessive sunshine. Their objection to lime limits their general cultivation to those parts 

 where the soil is non-calcareous." Fortunately, lime will not trouble them on any part of Long Island, and where 

 lime and clay interfere with their culture, this difficulty is overcome as follows: A bed of fresh soil free from lime 

 should be placed over the level of the surrounding soil. If a hole or pit is made in the soil, and the fresh soil put in, 

 the lime from the surrounding soil soon impregnates it. Leaf-mold will conserve moisture at the roots and keep the 

 soil cool. The Catawbiense Hybrids will thrive in the full sunshine; showers are sufficient, on Long Island, to keep 

 them in good condition. In full sunshine they set more blossom-buds than in the shade. In the shade they will 

 grow a little more rapidly and the leaves will be slightly larger; they will also be free from lace- wing fly which sucks 

 the sap from the underside of the leaves, causing them to be paler green. This insect is not serious, and is controlled 

 by spraying the underside of the leaves in May and June with whale-oil soap or tobacco extract. Avoid planting 

 in the shade of Maples, Elms and Lindens, which makes the ground very dry. Maples have numerous fibrous roots 

 close to the surface just like the Rhododendrons, and the two cannot thrive in the same place at the same time. 

 With Oaks, Pines, Locusts and many other trees without numerous fibrous surface-roots, the Rhododendrons are 

 particularly happy, and the two get along better than either alone. 



As soon as the flowers have completely faded, they should be removed, being careful not to pull off the leaves. 

 Allowing the plant to produce seeds will interfere with the formation of flower-buds for the following season. 



Many have been deterred from planting Rhododendrons because they did not know them as they did Lilacs, 

 Roses, Peonies or Maple Trees. The name has not become a common one. They think they are a risky experiment, 

 only suitable for the wealthy, under the care of skilled gardeners. They are willing to risk two and one-half dollars 

 for ten Roses, but not five dollars for five Rhododendrons. The Rhododendrons are beautiful all winter and, with 

 our stock, are just as certain to thrive as the Roses. 



Rhododendrons According to Color 



We have listed the varieties in series of colors, putting first on the list of whites, the purest white, next those 

 tinted with pink, and at the bottom those tinted lilac on the edges. With the light reds or pinks, the first are the 

 lightest in shade, and the last are the darkest. With the crimson and dark crimson, those in the first part of the 

 lists are of lighter tints. In the list of lilac shades, the first are the lighter and more pink, and the last are red shaded 

 with lilac and violet-red. Nearly all the red Rhododendrons have, upon close examination, more or less admixture 

 of violet and some have a slight tint of yellow. The colors have been classified according to the Color Chart of 

 the French Chrysanthemum Society ("Repertoire de Couleurs"). 



Screening the coal window is a problem for nearly every residence. The coal window cannot be at the service court 

 because the furnace is not in the kitchen wing. The window is usually near the front door. Tall Rhododendrons nearly cover 

 the window, and Dwarf Japanese Yew carpets the ground as high as the coal-chute. 



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