116 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



[Ato. 11, 1892. 



supper. Over there in that corner lies a pile of mountain 

 sheep horns, antelope heads and horns. On the poles 

 above our heads hang bear, antelope, coyote, lynx, badger, 

 mountain sheep, elk and moose hides, and on the joists 

 above rest our guide's toboggan and Norwegian snow 

 shoes (some of the latter 10ft. in length). Oa the ground 

 floor are traps of all kiDds, some for grizzly and silver- 

 tip bear, weighing as much as SOlbs. each, to which are 

 attached ponderous chains. A great heap of riding and 

 quaint-looking pack saddles finish uj) the contents of this 

 unique inclosure, the sight of which helps to dispel the 

 cares of business which still hover around us, though far 

 from home and out of its reach. 



The next structure adjoining is used for a general 

 workshop, and has a forge, work bench and all kinds of 

 artisan's tools. Near by the latter is the stable for the 

 horses, and connected with it is the corral, a large in- 

 closure in which the cayuses are confined when not graz- 

 ing. Below the dwelling and about half way to the 

 edge of the water is a cave or "dugout," such as many 

 families lived in on the borders of civilization, where I 

 used to hunt years ago in Iowa and Dakota. 



The front of Rea's cave is built of logs, and has a 

 strong door. This is used as a cellar for the safekeeping 

 of meat, etc. Sapper was calted, and we were all anxious 

 to get there, as our ride of forty-five miles from Beaver 

 Cafion and the additional exercise of taking a chance shot 

 at sage hens gave us appetites for much less tempting 

 grub than juicy antelope t-teak, brook trout and roast elk, 

 with good bread and potatoes, which was the bill of fare 

 for supper, with the addition of coffee or tea as preferred. 



Sunday Morning, Oct. 5. — We have all slept soundly. 

 The sun is jutst peeping over yonder snowclad mountain 

 top, the air is thin and cold, and a white frost covers the 

 ground, That hoary-headed peak dnesn't look to be over 

 five or six miles from here, but Rea assures me it is 

 twenty good long Idaho miles off. So much for our 

 judgment of distances in rarified air. As he and I stood 

 in front of the door admiring the beautiful sunrise as it 

 lit up the magnificent landscape, T kept him busy an- 

 swering questions, when suddenly I thought I saw some- 

 thing move on the side of a small elevation off to the 

 right, I called his attention to the fact. "Oh, they are 

 autelopp; I presume you can see them in almost any direc- 

 tion and at all times in the day from the ranch. Get 

 your field glass and take a good look at them." The glass 

 was forthcoming, the same I carried through nearly four 

 years of the late war, and sure enough there was a herd 

 of ten antelope quietly grazing. I pay, "George, how 

 far are they off?" Again I was surprised, and took 

 lesson No, 2 in computing distances in rarified air, 

 as he replied, "At least two miles," "Where are Bush 

 and Webei? We will call them. They, too, muse see the 

 first four-legged game," They soon appeared, half dressed, 

 slip-shod and rubbing their eyes. Tne gentleman of Ger- 

 man extraction became suddenly very much excited, and 

 insisted on starting in jjursuit at once, before breakfast, 

 and although it was Sunday morning. "How far are 

 they off?" queried one of us. One said three-quarters, the 

 other thought they might be out about half a mile. When 

 informed by George that they were at least two miles off, 

 and that it would take most of the forenoon to get around 

 them and under cover within shooting distance, our Ger- 

 man companion became somewhat less enthusiastic, and 

 gave up the idea of going for antelope on that particular 

 Sunday morning before breakfast. A spltndid breakfast 

 over, and, after filling our pipes, we were busy doing up 

 the ranch and its surroundings, lest some object of inter- 

 est might have escaped our attention during the evening. 



We soon learned that two new and important recruits 

 had arrived during the night, and, as they were to form 

 a very important factor in the ouifit, I will devote a few 

 lines to a description of who they were and what func- 

 tion they were to perform. One was "Bill," known as 

 tho "Panama Kid," who was a practical "cowboy" and 

 an expei-ienced "packer" — the latter avocation is a trade, 

 calling or profession distinct from any other in the 

 Rockies, and whose services are indispensable on a hunt 

 such as we were about to engage in. His wages are fixed 

 both by custom and usage, and if he understands his 

 business his services always command his price. The 

 packer furnishes his own ou fit — horse, saddle, bridle, 

 blankets, lariat, etc., and gets $3 a day and his grub. His 

 duties are to |)ack the anim^ils, which is quite a feat, and 

 can only be acquired by long experience and constant 

 practice, and in addition he cooks for the outfit. 



The other recruit was Frank, a very estimable young 

 man who had been a sheep herder for years, and who re- 

 ceived %i a day, his grub and a horse to ride. His duties 

 were to assist the packer, picket the animals and do 

 chores generally. Eight pack animals were required to 

 transport our duffl-', and it required the combined efforts 

 of Rea, "Kid" and Frank all day Sunday to get every- 

 thing arranged for the start on Monday morning. Rush, 

 Weber and myself concluded to try our horses, which 

 had been assigned us by the guide, and they were sad- 

 dled up. Warrior, Rea's favorite hunting horse, was as- 

 signed to the writer. He was a noble fellow, almost 

 white, and as gentle as he was good, and more will be 

 said of him hereafter. Bush drew Wardrobe, a fine, 

 wiry, jet black horse, smaller than AVarrior, but a trump 

 also. Weber got Buckskin, a somewhat tricky, frac- 

 tious cayuse, and smaller still than Wardrobe, as* Weber 

 was the light-weight of the party, only tipping the beam 

 at 125. Shongo. 



Adirondack Beer. 



Deer hunting in the Adirondacks will begin on Aug, 

 15, and the season will close on Oct. 31. Hounding will 

 be lawful from Sept. 10 to Oct. 10, inclusive. No deer 

 hunting at all is permitted in Ulster, Greene, Sullivan and 

 Delaware counties. Hounding is not permitted in St. 

 Lawrence county. One person may take two deer in a 

 season only. No transportation (except of heads, feet and 

 skins) allowed, except that one carcass may be trans- 

 pprted when accompanied by the owner. 



"Two are Company, Three a Crowd." 



In hunting moose by calling, the members of too large 

 a party are likely to interfere with each other and spoil 

 each other's chances. For instance, two of us with our 

 callers start out in the afternoon to spend the night on 

 the grounds where we intend calling the next morning 

 at daybreak; we have to get at least four miles apart, 

 and with a large party it is difficult to properly locate 



them. EXPEEIENCRD, 



A HUNT IN THE WHITE PINE COUNTRY. 



In northwest Colorado lies a large tract of land north 

 of the Grand River, which is one of the best hunting 

 grounds now left in the United States, It would be hard 

 to imagine any use beyond a hunting ground to which it 

 will be put, a good part of it being mesa land, near tim- 

 ber line in altitude, and so cut up by ravines and cafions 

 that journeys between neighboring parts are matters 

 sometimes of days. In the surrounding counties are 

 good farming and grazing lands which have been so 

 thoroughly settled that the scattered game which, not 

 very many years ago gave the Ute Indians their living, 

 has been driven into this much smaller area. The Gov- 

 ernment has been quietly considering lately the preserva- 

 tion of the game and the conversion of the land into a 

 second great national park, but this is probably a long 

 way in the future. 



Two years ago I found myself with time on my hands 

 in Glenwood Springs, the Colorado hot springs resort on 

 the D, & R, G, R R,, which runs through the Grand 

 River Canon on the very edge of the game country. 

 Since I had last been there, a year ago, several bears 

 were killed by Big Ike, the professional of that district, 

 in the well-nigh impassable ravines which here and there 

 cut the perpendicular sides of this canon, 



I had only three days, but when one is in the midst of 

 a game country a good deal can be done in a short time, 

 particularly when you are familiar with the country. I 

 was fortunate too, for in Dotsero a few miles up the 

 caiion, reached by a freight train early in the morning, I 

 found Ned Dempsey, my guide, who has supplied me and 

 a great many others with sport in the mountains. He 

 had happened to come to town that day, and I lost no 

 time in securing him. It took us not more than an hour 

 to buy flour and bacon enough for three days, pack them 

 and our bedding on his donkey, and start for where, as 

 he expressed it; he had some elk staked out for me, We 

 went light, you see, for we were to be back in three days, 

 and then I am a little of a crank on traveling with few 

 impediments and dispensing with riding horses when 

 possible. When it is a very long way to your hunting 

 ground horses become necessary, but when you are there 

 as I was, one's legs are best, for besides the saving of ex- 

 pense, one's movements are not controlled by the factor 

 of food hunting and horse catching in the mornings. If 

 you can go with Dempsey you will recognize soon that 

 one of his virtues is a great faculty for packing quickly. 

 We got an eai'ly start and were soon on the trail to the 

 trout lake in the mountains about sixteen miles away, 

 where we planned our first camp. About six of these 

 miles is a good steady climb, sometimes zig-zag up a 

 steep place among furs and pines through which one can 

 rarely get any breeze or view of the country, but the 

 panorama from the top repaid all our work with interest; 

 forty miles away we could see the Mountain of the Holy 

 Cross, so called from the shape of a snow-filled ravine on 

 its side, near its summit. On our other side, the hill fell 

 down into what Ned said was a first-class bear country, 

 and I readily believed it as we looked down many hundred 

 feet to the tops of the firs and the fallen timber on the 

 ragged sides of the ravines, A bear hunt is still waiting 

 there for some man with more time than I had. 



Our road led along the crest of the steep hill we had 

 come up, and we puhhed on, startling a bunch of cattle or 

 horses now and then, but no game though we were on the 

 close watch. I was glad of it, as the killing of a deer 

 meant the end of our hunt, for venison cannot be sold or 

 even given away in the spring according to the laws of 

 Colorado, though a man in the mountains can kill meat 

 for his own use. As the day grew short I added to our 

 sturdy little donkey's load, one by one, my coat, my 

 hunting shirt, my rifle, and was thinking of climbing on 

 top of them all, when at about 4 o'clock, after following 

 up for perhaps half a mile the prt ttiest little trout stream 

 with the clearest and shadiest of swirlieg holes that ever 

 were seen, we broke through the last clump of swamp 

 alders upon the bank itself of the trout lake, our first 

 camp. 



We fished fi:om the time we drove the donkey out of 

 camp to rustle for his food until it was too dark to see, 

 and without moving from one small cove caught, on flies, 

 114 trout that would average from one-half to three-quar- 

 ters of a pound, I am glad to say that the laws of the 

 State, and their strict enforcement, which is more to the 

 point, will, in my opinion, allow any one to do as well as 

 we did for a good many years. 



Four years ago, before the present Colorado fish and 

 game law was passed which forbids the sale of unculti- 

 vated trout at any season of the year, Ned Dempsey and 

 a partner fished this lake for the market; while one car- 

 ried the fish to town on donkeys, a two days' trip, the 

 other caught trout enough to keep him on the road all 

 the time. One hundred pounds of fish a day caught on 

 flies came out of that little lake and the mile of stream 

 below it for a large proportion of spring and early sum- 

 mer. Now, happily, this can not be done, or I should 

 not have enjoyed those crisp, thick little fish, for there 

 must be a limit, though hard to imagine these, to the fish 

 in any waters. The above fish law works well; fishcul- 

 ture has become a small industry in Colorado, and the 

 fiah dealers are the most jealous guardians of the law, 

 which is to them the prosperity of their business, and 

 they follow and arrest many law breakers every year. 



An early start in the morning, and our donkey, with 

 his big pack and short, convulsively moving hind legs, 

 headf d our little party to the elk country; over this great 

 wood-covered hill and round the next we climbed, the 

 little lake with its precipitous green sides appearing from 

 time to time below us where I least expected it. Ned 

 was as light-hearted as I, chaffing his firm fr end, the 

 donkey, on his foolish appearance, and encouraging him 

 with descriptions of the bunch grass he would soon find 

 in our camp above until we arrived, at 3 o'clock, beside a 

 spring just left by the snow to do its summer bubbling 

 and give to the elk and deer what we were going to try 

 to take away. However, that's the way we are made. 



I rolled nay thick jacket up and tied it around my 

 waist with a small rope, for, hot as it was then, the night 

 air was going to be very different, and our hunt might 

 lead us some distance from camp. Ned took the lead, 

 going carefully, examining the tracks, old and new, of 

 which there were plenty, but not a sight of any game 

 did we get; we started to follow, but gave up. A bear 

 track perhaps two days old peeped over each ridge, until 

 we came on a patch of timber in which were unmistak- 

 ably a number of fresh elk signs, and we knew we had 



got there; Dempsey, with his finger on. his lips, turned i 

 and gave me a look of "I told you so!" and in whispers 

 he stationed me beside a clump of bushes on an edge 

 overlooking a green level patch with a small spring in 

 its middle. Then he walked softly away, and I, untying 

 my jHcket from around my waist, examined every rock, 

 tree and corner around, listening to my heart beat, and 

 telling myself how absurd it was to come so far and then 

 risk my object by excitement; but philosophy is out of 

 place in the mountains. 



There! How in the world did he get there? 1 had not 

 seen him come into the meadow; but there he is, slowly 

 walking toward me below, nibbling a tender root here 

 and there, as confident of solitude as possible— a young 

 stag elk. Will he see me as I stealthily raise my .45 70 

 to my shoulder and wait for a sight at his fore shoulder. 

 He won't turn, but still he doesn't suspect harm; and I 

 abandon my first bead to take a long breath and to get a 

 better one as he comes from behind a shrub. Down hill 

 and only about seventy-five yards off, so aim well under: 

 he swings around, I pull, and I glilp down my heart into 

 its place again; for with strong, long jumps he is making 

 a new record for a fir patch a hundred and fifty yards 

 away. I pump another cartridge and pull again, but no 

 use, till all of a sudden down ho goes, and falls with a 

 crash on the very edge of the trees, a game beast, for he 

 ran seventy-five good yards with his heart cut in two by 

 my first bullet. 



We carried his tenderloin to camp, down the mountain, 

 in the dark, and no small job it was either, but success , 

 makes light of difficulties, and we enjoyed a hunter's 

 meal cooked over embers, and turned in under the stars 

 to sleep until daylight. We packed his saddle on the 

 donkey, but his fore- quarters were more than the little^ 

 fellow could be expected to carry, so I hung them in a fir 

 tree and we took the back track for the lake We found 

 on our way a camp of two men and two women who had 

 spent about all the money they had in the world to come 

 out to the mountains from Kansas City, to give a last i 

 hope in the high altitude to one of the men, a conmmp- 

 tive. The poor fellow had little to eat besides trout. 

 They knew nothing of hunting, and the invalid had 

 failed rapidly for the last few days. We supplied them 

 with some fresh meat, and before we had started again 

 after our lunch they told us he had eaten a pound of 

 steak and had taken a new lease of tife. That's my 

 story; I reached town within my three days, having ac- ■ 

 complished, with good luck, you'll say, perhaps, what it 

 takes oftener longer to do; but this, as I have said, is one 

 of the best game countries left to us. * 



CHICAGO AND THE WEST. 



\From a Staff Corre^vondcnt.^ 



CHICAC40, 111., Aug. 6.— One of themost notable features 

 offered for the entertainment of the public at the World's 

 Fair will be the brilliant water pageant of the Procession 

 of the Centuries, in which will be seen doubtless the 

 most superb collection of allegorical floats ever prepared 

 in the world. The series will present in colossal pictured 

 form the story of America, The technical description of 

 some of «he niiost interesting is as follows: 



"The floats or barges, 24 in number, will be mounted 

 upon specially conBtructed catamarans, and by ingenious 

 mechanical arrangements will be prf)pelled through the 

 water. The aboriginal age will occupy the first position. 

 In lieu of a single float this group will be composed of a 

 score or more of independent canoes of varying sizes and 

 characteristics, from the tiny bark canoe for a single 

 paddler to the great wooden war canoes propelled by 

 many paddlers. These canoes will be manned by Indians 

 to represent the many tribes, from the nearly naked 

 bronze-hued Indian of the tropics to their fur-clad 

 brethren of upper America. There will be seen the war 

 canoe and the daintier peace canoe, and there will be 

 hunting, fishing and racing canoes. All of these will 

 perform complicated and beautiful evolutions in which 

 they are to be sedulously drilled, They will form a 

 changing, broken group that will serve to act as an ad- 

 vance guard to the great procession of floats. This feature 

 of independent small boats is to be repeated at intervale 

 along the line, 



"The aboriginal age will be followed by the stone age, 

 the cLff' dwellers. This float will be approximately 40ft. 

 long, ii2ft. wide, and 30fc. high, dimensions that apply 

 with necessary variations to the remainder of the floats. 

 It will show in fac simile the rude dwellings of the old 

 cliff" dwellers, mere caves in the rocky faces of steep 

 canon walls and reached by rude notched posts or 

 ladders. At the foot of the cliffs on the flat level space 

 will be seen groups of the Indians engaged in sacred 

 dances. Near by their women grinding corn and pre- 

 paring the feast. Curious feathered poles, rude trophies 

 of the hunt, great jars of pottery and all manner of their 

 imx^lements, domestic, for war, religion and hunting, 

 will be seen scattered about, 



"Following the stone age comes 'The Age of Metal, 

 the Aztecs.' Not the bronze age, for America never had. 

 such an age, but in its place an age of gold and copper. 

 The vast float shows one of the huge teocallies of old 

 Mexico. Within the slnine is to be seen the flower gar- 

 landed, blood-bespattered image of HuitzUopochtli, the 

 war god. Before the shrine there is a possession, Moteh- 

 cuhzoma borne aloft by nobles in gorgeous vestments, 

 with slaves holding a brilliant canopy above them, Tbe 

 great chief is robed in marvelous garments made of the 

 brightest feathers of millions of humming birds and 

 adorned with massive gold ornaments and precious 

 calchihuitls. He is being conductied from his devotions 

 to his splendidly ornate galley blazing with gold and 

 color, with nodding plumes and flaunting iDanners. Other 

 smaller canoes attend on either hand. Some of these 

 draw after them floating islands covered with blossoming 

 flowers. On other parts of the platforms various groups 

 enact other scenes of Mexican life." 



Others of tbe floats will be "Columbus at the Spanish 

 Court," "The Departure of Columbus," "The Discovery," 

 "The Cavaliers," "The Pilgrims," "De Soto on the Missis- 

 sippi," "Marquette and La Sallf," "Pioneer Days," 

 "War," "Peace," "Liberty," and still others showing the 

 arts and industries, science and literature. It will be a 

 noble spectacle in all, a brilliant and impressive sight, 

 and he will be a poor American who can look upon it 

 without a lump in his throat. 



Now, I don'c know that all this would be especially 

 apropos of anything were it not for one fact, and that an 

 interesting one. All these brilliantr allegories required a. 



