XX] LONDON: VOYAGE TO SINGAPORE 307 



I have ever eaten or even imagined to exist. This, repeated 

 day after day without any variation, beats even Rio Negro 

 fare, rough though it often was. About a week after we were 

 picked up we spoke and boarded an outward-bound ship, 

 and got from her some biscuits, a few potatoes, and some 

 salt cod, which were a great improvement, but did not last 

 long. We have also occasionally caught some dolphin and 

 a few fish resembling the acarras of the Rio Negro ; but for 

 some time now we have seen none, so that I am looking for- 

 ward to the * flesh-pots of Egypt ' with as much pleasure as 

 when we were luxuriating daily on farinha and * fiel amigo.' ^ 

 While we were in the boats we had generally fine weather, 

 though with a few days and nights squally and with a heavy 

 sea, which made me often tremble for our safety, as we heeled 

 over till the water poured in over the boat's side. We had 

 almost despaired of seeing any vessel, our circle of vision 

 being so limited ; but we had great hopes of reaching Ber- 

 muda, though it is doubtful if we should have done so, the 

 neighbourhood of those islands being noted for sudden squalls 

 and hurricanes, and it was the time of year when the hurri- 

 canes most frequently occur. Having never seen a great gale 

 or storm at sea, I had some desire to witness the phenomenon, 

 and have now been completely gratified. The first we had 

 about a fortnight ago. In the morning there was a strong 

 breeze and the barometer had fallen nearly half an inch during 

 the night and continued sinking, so the captain commenced 

 taking in sail, and while getting in the royals and studding- 

 sails, the wind increased so as to split the mainsail, fore-top- 

 sail, fore-trysail, and jib, and it was some hours before they 

 could be got off her, and the main-topsail and fore-sail double 

 reefed. We then went flying along, the whole ocean a mass of 

 boiling foam, the crests of the waves being carried in spray 

 over our decks. The sea did not get up immediately, but by 

 night it was very rough, the ship plunging and rolling most 

 fearfully, the sea pouring in a deluge over the top of her bul- 

 warks, and sometimes up over the cabin skylight. The next 



^ This was the name given by our kind host, Senor Henrique, at Barra to dried 

 pirarucu, meaning " faithful friend," always at hand when other food failed. 



