XXI] THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO 343 



differences between civilized and savage man seem to disappear. 

 Here we are, two Europeans, surrounded by a population of 

 Chinese, Malays, and Dyaks. The Chinese are generally con- 

 sidered, and with some amount of truth, to be thieves, liars, 

 and reckless of human life, and these Chinese are coolies of 

 the lowest and least educated class, though they can all read 

 and write. The Malays are invariably described as being 

 barbarous and bloodthirsty ; and the Dyaks have only recently 

 ceased to think head-taking a necessity of their existence. 

 We are two days' journey from Sarawak, where, though the 

 government is nominally European, it only exists with the 

 consent and by the support of the native population. Yet 

 I can safely say that in any part of Europe where the same 

 opportunities for crime and disturbance existed, things would 

 not go so smoothly as they do here. We sleep with open 

 doors, and go about constantly unarmed ; one or two petty 

 robberies and a little fighting have occurred among the 

 Chinese, but the great majority of them are quiet, honest, 

 decent sort of people. They did not at first like the strictness 

 and punctuality with which the English manager kept them 

 to their work, and two or three ringleaders tried to get up 

 a strike for shorter hours and higher wages, but Mr. Coulson's 

 energy and decision soon stopped this by discharging the 

 ringleaders at once, and calling all the Malays and Dyaks in 

 the neighbourhood to come up to the mines in case any 

 violeace was attempted. It was very gratifying to see how 

 rapidly they obeyed the summons, knowing that Mr. Coulson 

 represented the rajah, and this display of power did much 

 good, for since then everything has gone on smoothly. 

 Preparations are now making for building a 'joss-house,' a 

 sure sign that the Chinese have settled down contentedly." 



In my next letter, a month later, I gave the following 

 account of an interesting episode : — 



" I must now tell you of the addition to my household of 

 an orphan baby, a curious little half-nigger baby, which I 

 have nursed now more than a month. I will tell you pre- 

 sently how I came to get it, but must first relate my inventive 



