XXII] CELEBES, THE MOLUCCAS, ETC. 383 



them properly, and latterly even to put up the skins very 

 neatly. Of course he was a good boatman, as are all Malays, 

 and in all the difficulties or dangers of our journeys he was 

 quite undisturbed and ready to do anything required of him. 

 He accompanied me through all my travels, sometimes alone, 

 but more frequently with several others, and was then very 

 useful in teaching them their duties, as he soon became well 

 acquainted with my wants and habits. During our residence 

 at Ternate he married, but his wife lived with her family, 

 and it made no difference in his accompanying me wherever 

 I went till we reached Singapore on my way home. On 

 parting, besides a present in money, I gave him my two 

 double-barrelled guns and whatever ammunition I had, with 

 a lot of surplus stores, tools, and sundries, which made him 

 quite rich. He here, for the first time, adopted European 

 clothes, which did not suit him nearly so well as his native 

 dress, and thus clad a friend took a very good photograph of 

 him. I therefore now present his likeness to my readers as 

 that of the best native servant I ever had, and the faithful 

 companion of almost all my journeyings among the islands 

 of the far East. 



The two birds of paradise which I had purchased gave 

 me a good deal of trouble and anxiety on my way home. I 

 had first to make an arrangement for a place to stand the 

 large cage on deck. A stock of food was required, which 

 consisted chiefly of bananas ; but to my surprise I found that 

 they would eat cockroaches greedily, and as these abound on 

 every ship in the tropics, I hoped to be able to obtain a 

 good supply. Every evening I went to the storeroom in 

 the fore part of the ship, where I was allowed to brush the 

 cockroaches into a biscuit tin. The ship stayed three or 

 four days at Bombay to discharge and take in cargo, coal, 

 etc., and all the passengers went to a hotel, so I brought 

 the birds on shore and stood them in the hotel verandah, 

 where they were a great attraction to visitors. While staying 

 at Bombay a small party of us had the good fortune to visit 

 the celebrated cave-temple of Elephanta on a grand festival 

 day, when it was crowded with thousands of natives — men, 



