NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 



47 



which they ride. To this vehicle two mules are harnessed 

 abreast ; one in the shafts, and the other on the outside, to bear 

 the -^calegero," in his grotesque livery and big boots. Though 

 a hackman, he wears a uniform, which is sometimes a green 

 coatee with red trimmings and white steel buttons ; at others, 

 a blue coatee with yellow collar and cuffs. Armed with a 

 heavily loaded whip, he bestrides his little saddle, and lashes 

 and spurs the mules from the start. In spite of appearances, 

 however, our calega proved to be a very commodious and easy- 

 going carriage, and whirled us along at the rate of five or six 

 miles the hour. 



We rolled through several streets, and emerged from the 

 city upon the Praya do Flamingo, whence we had a fine view 

 of the harbor and shipping. Our carriage was soon passing a 

 handsome chateau, which was shut, and apparently uninhabit- 

 ed. This was one of the ex-emperor's retreats. Next we came 

 in sight of the peaceful waters of Botafogo, shut in and almost 

 land-locked by high and irregular hills, whose shadows were 

 trembling on the surface of the bay, now glittering in the first 

 beams of the rising sun. The whole shore is studded with 

 houses and gardens ; and the morning air came perfumed with 

 flowers, and conveyed delight in every breath. 



** Not all the charms, that ethnic fancy gave 

 To blessed arbours o*er the western wave. 

 Could wake a dream more soothing or sublime, 

 Of bowers ethereal and the spirit's clime !" 



At the head of the bay we turned to the right. The country 

 was beautifully picturesque. About four miles from town the 

 road lies between a lake, which is separated from the ocean by 

 a narrow strip of land, at one place so low that the sea not un- 

 frequently finds its way over it, and the irregular hills which 

 terminate in the almost overhanging Corcovado. Tiny rills 

 gush from the sides of the mountain, and leap in miniature cas- 

 cades down its side, fertilizing the ground over which they 

 pass. From this spot we saw a large square mountain, which 

 is considered an excellent land mark in making the harbor of 

 Rio ; from its supposed resemblance to a ship's topsail, it is 



