NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 



61 



streams of water, which are usually the vehicles of filth ; and 

 when it rains, which it does, and very heavily, during a con- 

 siderable part of the year, the whole street is overflowed. The 

 side walks are very narrow, and the dress of foot passengers 

 is always in danger of being soiled by the splashing of horses 

 and carriages. 



The cries of the town are indescribable ; the ears are assailed 

 with the shrill and discordant voices of women slaves vending 

 fruits and sweetmeats ; and of the water carriers crying ' agua,' 

 which they carry about on their heads in large wooden kegs, 

 filled at the different fountains ; each one is worth about six 

 cents. 



The market place is a filthy collection of booths, generally 

 surrounded with mud, under which is sold a variety of vege- 

 tables and fruits. The yam supplies the place of the potato. 

 The oranges are amongst the finest in the world, and are sold 

 at from ten to twenty -five cents the hundred. Butcher's meats 

 are sold in shops which may be scented from afar, proclaiming 

 the state in which they are kept. It is customary to require 

 the purchaser, after selecting what he wishes, to take also a 

 piece of an animal that may have been killed three or four 

 days ; and if he refuse, the butcher most obstinately withholds 

 the chosen morsel. The beef is tender, but entirely destitute 

 of fat, and would be much better if more care and cleanliness 

 were bestowed in the butchery. The pork is very good ; but 

 the mutton is bad, and extravagantly dear. The poultry is in- 

 different, and far from being cheap. The fish market is a very 

 good one, generally well supplied ; oysters are found in the 

 bay, but they are not much esteemed. I am told, there is a 

 market for monkeys and parrots, but I did not visit it. 



There are in this city thirty-nine churches ; some of which 

 are vsplendidly and fancifully ornamented. That of San Fran- 

 cisco de Paula is a very large one. The naves are spacious, 

 and the chapels are well furnished with wax candles, crucifixes, 

 paintings, and images of saints. The whole interior of the 

 church is decorated with pillars and heavy carving. But little 

 light enters through the painted panes, and that seems to dim 

 the blaze of the tall candles. The whole inspires a religious 



