NOTICES OF CHILE. 



91 



Fancy all these, and you may have an idea of Valparaiso, near 

 the landing, on a week day morning. 



At four o'clock in the afternoon, the streets are almost de- 

 serted. At that hour business ceases ; the natives take the 



siesta," or afternoon nap, and foreigners go home to dine. 

 At sunset the world wakes up, and the street becomes again 

 animated. The chandler makes his appearance, bearing a load 

 of dirty tallow candles, strung on a pole over his shoulder, 

 crying velas de sebo" — tallow candles ; and the tinker makes 

 himself heard, shouting, <^el hojalatero — vasinicas de hoja- 

 lata mui bardtas" — the tinker, chamber utensils of tin — very 

 cheap. No hour could be more appropriate for vending these 

 articles, than the close of the day ! Ladies and gentlemen sally 

 forth at this hour, for the ^^paseo," or promenade; at this 

 hour, too, is " oracion," — the church bell tolls, and every body 

 stands silent and uncovered, while he repeats the evening 

 prayer. In a few seconds the bell again strikes, and every one 

 signs himself with the cross, then wishes his neighbour a good 

 night. On these occasions, it is the etiquette for the eldest in 

 company to be the first to say good night ; and it is sometimes 

 amusing to see them dispute who shall begin ; the younger ones 

 present leaving it to their seniors to make this sort of acknow- 

 ledgment of age — ^'Diga V"^'^," at last says one — *^No Seiior, 

 diga V™*^," replies another;- — '^Say you" — *«No Sir, say 

 you!" 



During the evening the shops are lighted, and the streets are 

 enlivened by parties of ladies "shopping." On Thursday 

 nights, a military band serenades the governor at nine o'clock, 

 and crowds of people assemble to enjoy it with him. On Satur- 

 day nights the streets are particularly gay. The plaza is sprink- 

 led over with flat baskets of shoes, ranged with great care, 

 and lighted by a tallow candle, stuck upon their sides ; it is a 

 custom of great antiquity for ladies to repair there to purchase 

 shoes, for it is said, the Chilenas require a new pair every 

 week. The size is ascertained by measuring them with the 

 spread fingers; and perhaps experience, gained by the frequency 

 of fitting themselves, is of considerable advantage. 



Even until very late at night, men are heard crying through 



