NOTICES OF CHILE. 



115 



neck, the horse, that before was so shy as to render approach- 

 ing him impossible, becomes completely docile. 



Having changed horses, we again took our seats, and con- 

 tinued on, rising and descending hills, for three leagues, over 

 a very irregular, barren country. This distance brought us to 

 the Tablas or plains. The sun had sunk, and left the sky bril- 

 liant in stars and azure. The atmosphere in Chile, during the 

 winter, is clearer than in any part of the world, and the splen- 

 dor of the moonlight nights, cannot be exceeded any where. 



At a short distance before us, we saw a light, and on draw- 

 ing near, perceived that it proceeded from a fire in the midst of 

 three or four carretas, which had halted for the night. We 

 again alighted to change horses. As far as the eye could see 

 over the plain, we could discern no house. The fire was sur- 

 rounded by the carreteros, or teamsters ; some were seated on 

 the ground, with their feet drawn up, and their hands locked 

 in front of their knees ; some were standing with arms folded ; 

 others reclined upon an elbow, gazing at the burning faggots, 

 and others again were moving about, silently arranging the 

 provender for the cattle. The bales of straw had been brought 

 from the carretas, and the oxen stood peacefully chewing the 

 cud, having satisfied their appetite on this meagre fare. Small 

 earthen pans, or <^ollas," placed on tripods of stones, were 

 stewing and sending forth a savory smell of garlic, and two or 

 three pieces of ^^charqui," or jerked beef, were broiling on 

 the coals. As we drew near to enjoy the benefit of the fire — 

 for the air had grown chill as November, several dogs made a 

 furious attack upon us, but were at once recalled by an authori- 

 tative voice ; "Ay ! perro, ush — perro — grandisima 

 The last superlative epithet (which would soil our page) being 

 followed by a stone, the curs slunk away, and laid down under 

 the carts. So soon as the uproar subsided, they said, " pasan 

 ustedes adelante, Senores ; hace frio" — pass forward, gentlemen, 

 it is cold." We found comfortable seats on the tongue of one of 

 the carretas, at once lighted our cigars, and took part in the con- 

 versation. These " peones" were lamenting the want of rain, 

 and drew a most gloomy picture of the state of the country. 

 <^The flocks and herds," said they, "are perishing in every 



