NOTICES OF CHILE. 123 



word sacre, pronounced in a tone vividly descriptive of the 

 feelings of his inward man. Notwithstanding, the officers care- 

 fully searched the gig, and found a small box directed to the 

 French Consul at Santiago. The French Dominie plead in 

 vain. It was against the law to carry sealed letters or packages ; 

 this was therefore a prize. Finding remonstrance useless, he 

 again took his seat and drove off, breathing, as long as we could 

 hear him, a mountain of French curses on <^ les coquins.'' 



Our turn came next. Without ceremony, they very impe- 

 ratively saluted us with, '^get out of the gig, and let us see 

 what it contains." Having seen the fruitless effects of remon- 

 strance, in the case of our companion of the road, we thought 

 ready compliance might at least procure us politeness. We 

 therefore alighted. My compagnon de voyage had brought 

 with him a pound of snuff for an old gentleman in the country, 

 and a box of cigars for himself ; and for which he had a " guia" 

 or permit from the custom house at Valparaiso. One of these 

 vigilant officers had mounted and already opened the gig box, 

 when the ^^guia" was presented to him. The candle bearer 

 drew near and stood in front of the wheel, leaning into the ve- 

 hicle, while the other seated himself, and stretching the paper 

 between his hands, leaned forward to the light which was now 

 held before it. Both began reading and spelling the permit, 

 commencing, '* Puerto y Ciudad de Valparaiso y veinto cinco 

 de Mayo." Every word was carefully read or spelled, their 

 heads turning from side to side as their eyes followed the lines. 

 When they had finished the perusal, the snuff and cigars were 

 <3uly examined, to make sure that no more than the quantities 

 named in the permit had been brought. At length, being sa- 

 tisfied that the gig contained nothing contraband, the capataz 

 was ordered to unload the mules of our trunks. While this 

 was doing, he who seemed to be superior drew" forth a pocket 

 box of coarsely powdered tobacco, and having very leisurely 

 prepared an "hoja," cigar, commenced smoking. The trunks 

 were opened in the middle of the road. Not an article escaped 

 minute examination ; every shirt was spread out, and even the 

 coat pockets looked into. All this was conducted with the 

 greatest deliberation, with a view, no doubt, as my friend sug- 



