128 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC 



indeed just such a set of cigar-smoking, chitty-chatty fellows 

 as one might expect to meet with at such an inn. 



Only one of the sojourners have I omitted. He was secre- 

 tary to the M — X — n Legation, and, in the absence of the mi- 

 nister, felt himself elevated almost to a level with his patron, 

 though nobody in the house would concur with him j there- 

 fore he treated them all with dignity. He eat his meals in 

 silence, curled his lip, and wiped his knife and spoon on a 

 cambric pocket handkerchief before he began. Poor fellow ! 

 the ridicule of his fellow boarders drove him to housekeeping, 

 and I am told, he keeps no company, because he thinks no 

 one can appreciate his talents. 



A tall, big nosed, rosy cheeked, spectacled Frenchman 

 sometimes took a seat among us ; he was remarkable for swal- 

 lowing immense quantities of lettuce and claret, for cleaning 

 his nails on his plate with a fork, and lolling back to pick his 

 teeth, between the courses, with the same instrument. 



It is true, these are not of Chilian growth, but I look upon 

 them as amongst the curiosities that a North American may 

 meet with in travelling, and as such, (never having seen the like 

 at home) I have sketched them. I do not believe that such a 

 company, and such a dirty hotel, with such- an inert landlord, 

 can be found in any part of our country. Although I am by 

 no means very nice or scrupulous in trifling matters, I could 

 not endure the Fonda Inglesa longer than three days, and 

 therefore adopted the plan of those Chilians who visit Santiago 

 on business. They hire a furnished room or rooms, and either 

 walk to one of the cafes for their meals, or have them brought 

 to their lodgings. I took the former plan, and resorted to a 

 cafe, which is adjoining to the cathedral, where I found a card 

 as long as Verry's, from which to select. Every thing was 

 new, neat, and very clean. The building was formerly the 

 palace of the bishop of Chile, and of course extensive. It en- 

 closes two or three courts, and has a hall for the reception of 

 ladies, handsomely furnished with carpets, sofas, mirrors, lus- 

 tres, and a piano. In the summer, after a promenade in the 

 alameda, it is a fashionable resort to eat ices and confectionary. 

 From twelve to three o'clock daily, this cafe is visited by a 



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