132 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



mands the city, and was probably erected to check rebellion 

 and internal commotions. From the top of this hill, the city 

 and the vicinity are spread out like a map at the feet of the 

 beholder, presenting to him the streets, and the surrounding 

 villas and gardens, at a single coup d^oeil. Almost every house 

 has a garden attached to it. From this cause the city extends 

 over much more ground than an equal population (not exceed- 

 ing forty thousand,) would require in our country. 



The plaza, in Spanish towns, is always a busy spot. The 

 fountain in the centre is constantly visited by the " aguad&res,'' 

 filling and carrying away water ; the small retail shops sur- 

 rounding the square, filled with a variety of articles, (for trade 

 has not yet become sub-divided into branches, as in the large 

 cities of Europe and the United States,) attract many pur- 

 chasers ; along the trottoir are sprinkled baskets of various- 

 produce; horsemen in ponchos and straw hats, are dashing 

 across the plaza, and every variety of vehicle, from the quick- 

 moving coach and four, through the grades of <«cal6sa,^' and 

 gig, to the lumbering carreta, may be seen pursuing their re- 

 spective routes. 



Almost every shop has on its shelves a few books, consisting 

 chiefly of French translations and ecclesiastical works. There 

 is no book store in the place ; the largest collection is displayed 

 amidst hardware and cutlery. Although so very popular, I 

 was unable to procure a copy of Don Quixote in the city. 



Early in the morning, at the prison door, may be seen, 

 almost every day, one or two dead bodies, stretched out upon 

 the stones, with a plate upon the breast, to collect alms for their 

 interment. These are the result of the horrid practice of de- 

 ciding personal disputes amongst the lower orders by having 

 recourse to the murderous knife, instead of the more rational 

 and innocent plan of John Bull's descendants, of bruising each 

 other with the weapons nature gave them — their fists. At the 

 ^^pulperias," where the <'peones" resort at night, to drink 



chicha" and aguardiente'' (brandy), and sing and dance to 

 the sound of harp and guitar, disputes frequently arise when 

 the brain becomes heated by strong drink. Then the poncho 

 is rolled around the left arm, to be used as a shield, and the 



