136 



THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



the air the indifferently clean tallow candles burning in them. 

 Spermaceti candles are only used on special occasions, and 

 lamps are seldom seen. 



The sala is quite as large as the cuadra itself, but furnished 

 in a less expensive style. It is the apartment where the family 

 ordinarily sit, and receive familiar friends. I passed through 

 the sala, and as I made my way to the cuadra, perceived through 

 the partition that it was filled with company. Two card tables 

 were spread out ; at one of which a party was playing at 



malilla" — a fashionable game at cards — and at the other was 

 Dona Paulita, the only daughter of Dona Xavi6ra, and opposite 

 to her a Canonigo. On his left Dona Jesusita, a cousin of Dona 

 Paulita, and opposite to her Don Manuel, an intimate of the 

 family. They were laughing over a simple game, called ten- 

 derete." A young gentleman was seated at the piano, playing 

 a quadrille, while several were standing in the centre of the 

 room, talking, and smoking hojitas." A large, good natured, 

 greasy looking friar, sat chatting with a toothless lady, near 

 the table of the young people ; such was the aspect when 1 en- 

 tered. The music ceased ; not on account of deference, but be- 

 cause their visiter was an old acquaintance, who had the credit 

 of having saved the life of Dona Paulita's uncle. After the 

 usual salutation, the card players continued their games ; but 

 the young gentlemen exerted themselves for my entertainment. 

 I drew a chair near Dona Paulita, and seated myself to observe 

 the game, and enjoy the humor and wit that were flowing 

 from the good Can6nigo. He possessed an intelligent counte- 

 nance, keen black eyes, and silky black hair, and was not mor« 

 than thirty-five years of age. His fine figure was displayed in 

 a single breasted frock coat, with standing collar, buttoned to 

 the throat. His tonsure was neat, and, upon the whole, he was 

 the handsomest, as well as the tidiest priest I remember to have 

 met in South America. The game of ^^tenderete" was soon 

 changed for another, called "brisca,'^ which is something like 

 whist; instead, however, of counting tricks, the face cards count 

 ten, and whichever side takes most, wins. Moreover, the 

 players are allowed to trump or not, as they may deem most 

 advantageous. Don Manuel very politely offered to resign his 



