I 



182 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



and great numbers of seals, while its heights are only visited 

 by condors and vultures. 



There is a melancholy sentiment conveyed by a sight of this 

 barren spot. When death has removed them from this world, 

 our countrymen, in common with Englishmen, are allowed no 

 other resting place, for '^the cursed ungodliness of zeal" has 



" Denied the charity of dust, to spread 

 O'er dust!" 



Even the humble monument, raised by weeping friendship,, 

 has been defaced or torn away by bigots ! Many noble hearts, 

 stilled by the silent inroads of this deceitful climate, now 

 moulder here, far away from the land that gave them birth. 



Not long since, the government granted foreigners permis- 

 sion (not yet taken advantage of) to purchase a spot near Lima,~ 

 to be consecrated as a burying ground ; but nothing can gain a 

 Protestant corpse admittance into the Peruvian Pantheon. 

 They refused burial even to the remains of Admiral Guise, the 

 commander in chief of their navy, killed in 1828, before Guay- 

 aquil, on board of the Frigate Prueba, till his widow, a native 

 lady, stated most solemnly that he was a Roman Catholic. 



When we approached Callao, the zenith was clear. The 

 Morro Solar and San Lorenzo lay silent before us. The breeze 

 was mild. The clouds floated round the mighty Cordilleras, 

 but their snowy peaks looked over them. The narrow strip of 

 plain between the coast and the mountains was green. The 

 spires and fanes of Pizarro's city "of a thousand towers and 

 an hundred gates," were descried, nestling at the foot of San 

 Cristoval. As we neared the island, the sea broke sullenly 

 along its southern shore, and over the insulated rocks near it. 

 We were so near them, that we plainly saw, basking in the 

 sun, hundreds of drowsy seals and sea lions, with sleek skins 

 and shaggy manes. 



We passed close to the northern end of San Lorenzo, and 

 about four o'clock anchored a mile from the mole, and outside 

 of the merchant vessels. Before coming to, the captain of the 

 port and the port physician boarded us, and received all the 

 letters we had brought. The captain of the port told us that a 



