192 



THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



church of Palms, or Baquljano, which, in 1825, served as an 

 ambush for the patriots in a sharp skirmish with a royal party 

 from the castles. On that day, from Lima gates to Callao, the 

 road was strewed with dead. The cruel Rodil would not con- 

 sent to the bodies being buried — they laid there till the buz- 

 zards and vultures removed them ! 



A party of market people, closely followed by one of plea- 

 sure, passed us. The market women were mounted on asses, 

 with saddles made high and square on top, with pillions of 

 sheep skins, tanned with the wool on. The samba women 

 were seated astride, presenting, from the great breadth of the 

 saddle, a most grotesque appearance. The well expanded leg, 

 cased in a silk stocking, was visible to the knee. The foot, set 

 oflf in a green or particolored slipper, and armed with a great 

 spur, was constantly swung with a careless air against the sides 

 of the patient donkey. A figured calico gown, and a large 

 cotton shawl, with the right corner flung over the left shoulder, 

 and a high crowned Guayaquil hat, tied under the chin with a 

 black ribbon, the rim being left free, completed the costume. 

 Some had large panniers of fruit slung to the sides of their beasts, 

 and others had two sheep ready for the market, tied together 

 by the hind legs, hung over the saddle bow. Some had their 

 infant children with them, suspended over the back in a shawl 

 or poncho. These women were mostly embonpoint, or even 

 corpulent, with round, shining faces and placid countenances. 



The pleasure party was also of the sambo caste. The wo- 

 men were laughing, and prancing along on spirited horses, ac- 

 companied by sambos and negroes. The females were dressed 

 in white gowns, white ponchos, Manila hats, highly glazed 

 and decorated, with a bow and band of black ribbon, secured 

 under the chin, (the rim floating free), silk hose, gay colored 

 slippers and spurs. The hair was frizzed over the shoulders, 

 and thickly sprinkled with jasmine flowers. They sat astride, 

 and managed their horses admirably. The beaux also wore 

 Manila hats, white ponchos, and white jean pantaloons. Their 

 heavy spurs, with rowels not less than two inches in diameter, 

 were supported by a leathern heel piece. At a distance it was 

 difficult to distinguish the women from the men, and when near;^ 



