NOTICES OF PERU. 



195 



towards the capital. Parties similar to those we had met, passed 

 us, with now and then a valencin," which is a two wheeled 

 carriage, drawn by two mules abreast, on one of which a postil- 

 lion rides. When new and in fine order, this vehicle is a calesa ; 

 but worn for some time, it degenerates into a ^^valencin," as 

 private carriages, in the course of time, dwindle into hackney 

 coaches in the United States. We overtook a drove of asses, 

 laden with kegs. Two were too much for a single ass, so that 

 a large stone was slung on one side to balance the keg on the 

 other. This plan is not unfrequently adopted by the "arrieros,'^ 

 or muleteers, when the packages are too large to be carried in 

 pairs by a mule or donkey. Mules generally carry two barrels 

 of flour at a load, from Callao to Lima, a distance of seven 

 miles, over a stony road. 



To the right and left of the road are seen large mounds of 

 earth, termed Huacas, which are the remaining monuments 

 of the ancient Peruvians. Until it approaches within a quarter 

 of a mile of the city gate, the Lima road is an unpleasant one. 

 To the right it is flanked by high mud walls, and on the left 

 is a meadow overgrown in places with cane brakes, which, 

 some years ago, were the ambuscades of highwaymen. Near 

 the metropolis, the country assumes a more smiling aspect. 

 The dusty highway becomes an avenue of double rows of wil- 

 low trees, with bubbling streams running on either hand. 

 Stone seats are conveniently placed beneath their shade in the 

 side alleys, which are lower than the main road. On each 

 side the garden walls are overhung by orange, lemon, citron, 

 and palta trees ; — the air is redolent with the odors of the 

 cherimoya and orange ; its stillness, even at noon, is broken 

 by the various notes of the feathered tribes. Large circles are 

 placed equidistant on the road, to the number of four, called 



6valos," designated as first, second, &c., beginning at the 

 gate. The road cuts them diametrically, leaving a semicircle 

 on each side, surrounded by a stone seat. The round base of 

 stone in the centre of each ovale," was intended to be a foun- 

 tain. This avenue is called, ^' La Alameda de la Portada." 

 Here, morning and evening, are seen people enjoying the 

 " paseo civilians and military men ; churchmen and laymen. 



