196 



THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



and women of every caste and rank in society. But it is sel- 

 dom crowded, except on feast days. When we passed, we only 

 saw a Franciscan friar, strolling along, in conversation with a 

 negro woman, carrying a basket of oranges on her head. 



Not far from the gate, we met a group of natives on horse- 

 back. The gentlemen were in short white jackets, full white 

 pantaloons, the ponchos hanging carelessly over one arm, Ma- 

 nila hats, fastened with black ties under the chin, and the heels 

 armed with long shanked silver spurs. The horses of all were 

 caparisoned strictly after the fashion of the country. The sad- 

 dle rises high before and behind, and is covered with blue pil- 

 lions, secured by girths, forming a deep seat, from which it is 

 difficult to be thrown, because the front corners of the saddle 

 curve backwards over the thighs, forming for them a complete 

 case. The stirrups are of pyramidal blocks of dark wood, 

 carved in various figures, and the corners are covered with 

 plates of silver. In one side a hole is scooped out to recj^ive 

 the foot. A broad piece of leather, cut into a sort of filigree 

 figures, extends from the back of the saddle to the tail, and a 

 similar piece passes round the hams and flank, which gives to 

 this furniture the appearance of that of a coach horse. The 

 whole is ornamented with silver buckles and rings, and the 

 head piece with a profusion of studs of the same metal. The 

 ladies, who were of the middle age, sat straight in their sad- 

 dles, which were in all respects like those of the men, except 

 that the stirrups were silver, and the reins were of a finer tex- 

 ture. They wore full ponchos, which covered the upper part 

 of the figure j that of the youngest, who was perhaps twenty 

 years of age, was striped in a flowered pattern of gay colors. 

 The hair hung in braids down the back from under the Ma- 

 nila hat, which sat square on the head. Fine white pantalets, 

 fringed with lace at the bottom, a white silk sock and satin 

 slipper, set off a beautiful foot, armed with a golden spur. The 

 party consisted of six persons. Their horses were spirited, and 

 the ladies managed them with perfect skill, now checking, and 

 touching them at the same time with the spur, causing the ani- 

 mal to throw up his head proudly and dance off to one side ; 

 now, giving rein and spur at the same time, dash off at a full 



